Broke ear where distributor cap screws into distributor

[Big Poppa Pump]

I was doing the super simple job of changing my cap and rotor. I must have put too much torque on the screw on the side you can see and cracked the ear that receives the screw to hold the distributor cover to the distributor. I did not realize it was also plastic. Any ideas to fix it? I put it all back together and it starts and runs no problem. However, this has got to be totally unreliable and will end up a moisture problem. Do I have to change out the distributor?

 

[Big Poppa Pump]

Found this ;

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-90449-Distribution-Repair-Plate/dp/B00BQAJNWO/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

 

[bigfootchiro]

I’ve never seen those, but look like they would work just fine. The Vortec distributors are known for doing this. I’d say just swap it out for a full aluminium body distributor, but to each their own lol

 

[east302]

Yeah, I’d just swap it for one with a metal housing if it’s in your budget. Summit sells them, and I think Cardone has one as well.

Don’t forget to set the camshaft position sensor offset (CMP Retard) if you do.


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[Big Poppa Pump]

Thanks. I was thinking the same thing when I stumbled on the Davis unit on Summit. I spent about three hours last night reading up on this. The CMP retard thing is the only concept I'm having a problem understanding. I'm going to search YouTube today and see if there are any good tutorials. For the moment I'm going to reinforce the whole thing by zip tie of the cap to the distributor with heavy gauge zip ties.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Thanks. I was thinking the same thing when I stumbled on the Davis unit on Summit. I spent about three hours last night reading up on this. The CMP retard thing is the only concept I'm having a problem understanding. I'm going to search YouTube today and see if there are any good tutorials. For the moment I'm going to reinforce the whole thing by zip tie of the cap to the distributor with heavy gauge zip ties.

CMP retard is just the timing. If you have a scan gauge or a wireless/Bluetooth OBD reader with the proper app on your phone/tablet and PIDs, you can set the timing/CMP retard easily straight from under the hood. As long as you set the base timing close enough to start the truck, you’ll be good. You can’t set the timing on these motors with a timing light, only by looking at the CMP retard. -2 to 2 degrees is within spec; however, closer to 0 is best.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Here’s a good article to read.

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/distributor.html

 

[bigfootchiro]

Also, Skip White Performance sells aluminum body distributors for around $50

 

[Big Poppa Pump]

Also, Skip White Performance sells aluminum body distributors for around $50

Thanks for everything. Unfortunately everything I have is Apple. Also, Skip white had the distributor for the 4.6 and the 7.4 Vortec but nothing for the 5.7.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Thanks for everything. Unfortunately everything I have is Apple.

Me too lol. I run DashCommand app on iPhone, and a Foseal wifi OBD reader with GM extension pack. $30 in total and you can see practically every parameter that truck has to offer.