AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
stainless braided im guessing.. acdelco will be perfect, makign your own lines will be around 100bucks. fittings and crap is expensive.
Brake upgrade questions
- Thread starter Monstar_est87
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AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
looks good to me. Do it uppp
sslimitedtahoe
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yup i just installed one on my limited had to and i also installed a impala rear end with disk brakes
---------- Post added at 11:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 PM ----------
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
What yr and truck did you get the hydroboost unit from sslimited?
sslimitedtahoe
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my boy got it from a parted out burban not sure what year all the lines you see on the pic are from the burban too! and they all fit perfect ! HE ALSO HAD TO CUT THE BRAKE PEDAL A LIL AND MESS WITH THE FIRE WALL A LIL IN ORDER FOR THE HYDRO TO BOLT RIGHT UP ! I LUCKED OUT I GOT THE HYDRO FOR 100 AND THE LINES FOR 60 ! ILL ASK HIM WHAT YEAR THE TRUCK WAS TOMORROW DID YOU GUYS HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS I SHOULD ASK HIM OR ANY MORE PICS ANYONE WANT ME TO TAKE ?
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Monstar_est87
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Hells yea sslimited..! Nice come up my fellow brotheren... Thats gonna make it easier to get the setup...
i'm curious to hear of the modifications he did to the pedal. I remember reading a few months back you have to buy the pedal for the hydro unit, but i can't find that writeup anywhere...if you buddy knows how to modify it, even better!!
if you want the hydroboost parts numbers for OEM shit, here ya go
gathered them up a while ago and been sitting on it
Hydroboost kit PN 178-578
master cylinder PN 174-722
steering box PN 36-0517567
power steering pump PN 36-517138
Hydraulic line from pump to booster PN 36-365470
Hydraulic line from booster to steering box PN 36-365480
Atomic - is there a reason you chose power steering pump 36-517138 and not http://www.oehq.com/Partpix/ACDjpg/36-517137.jpg
One more question, what do you need to upgrade the power steering box?
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Monstar_est87
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Im going 2 the junkyard right now 2 see wat I can find on this hydroboost and brake pedal business...
Sslimited- The Impala rear end u used, was that a 94-96 SS rear..?
Sslimited- The Impala rear end u used, was that a 94-96 SS rear..?
i really need to do the same to see the difference up close with these damn parts.
Monstar - some info i came across today is that when you swap to a hydro setup and you're running with variable assist steering (i'm pretty sure your hoe has it) there will be "twitches" in the steering.
Supposedly this part, GM #19168825, fixes that issue by disabling the variable assist. If you simply unplug your variable assist sensor, it will run on its most sensitive setting...so guys started utilizing this GM part to fix the issue.
Monstar - some info i came across today is that when you swap to a hydro setup and you're running with variable assist steering (i'm pretty sure your hoe has it) there will be "twitches" in the steering.
Supposedly this part, GM #19168825, fixes that issue by disabling the variable assist. If you simply unplug your variable assist sensor, it will run on its most sensitive setting...so guys started utilizing this GM part to fix the issue.
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sslimitedtahoe
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96 I believe but you have to know that the rear end is shorter ! I did it so I could tuck my wheels and cheaper than getting my rear end shortened
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Monstar_est87
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OIC... Smart alternative... That woulda been a good rear drum to disc conversion...
steamroller
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Pic I have saved of the pedal differences. The pin height is different, located higher and further away from the firewall
OEM Hydroboost unit pic, you can see the booster itself is placed higher on the mounting bracket. The aftermarket kits appear to center the booster on the bracket and modify the pushrod length.....this lets you keep the stock pedal in place.
LMC had the pedals at one time for $25.
OEM Hydroboost unit pic, you can see the booster itself is placed higher on the mounting bracket. The aftermarket kits appear to center the booster on the bracket and modify the pushrod length.....this lets you keep the stock pedal in place.
LMC had the pedals at one time for $25.
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Monstar_est87
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Steamroller looks like ur on ur way... Please do a write up..!
steamroller
Full Access Member
Can't take credit for those pics, I have them saved from other threads about this on the net. Just trying to clear up the questions on the pedal differences. 
There's a write up in the performance section on how to get it done without switching the pedals or buying a kit. I don't see it being that complicated if you get all the parts from a hydroboost equipped truck or SUV. Tons of info on power steering pumps over on Pirate4x4 too.
There's a write up in the performance section on how to get it done without switching the pedals or buying a kit. I don't see it being that complicated if you get all the parts from a hydroboost equipped truck or SUV. Tons of info on power steering pumps over on Pirate4x4 too.
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
Yea, all the part numbers are out there, just buy the goods and put em on.. shouldnt be too hard
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Monstar_est87
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Will do... Thanks again gents...
catalinajack
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Simple Upgrade
Based on what I read on this post I chose to use 3/4 ton calipers and Hawk PC (Performance Ceramic) 1/2 ton pads. The calipers worked out great, the pads not so much although the combination gave me somewhat of an improvement. By chance , while ordering some ATE Blue brake fluid from Raceshoppers.com, I took the opportunity to ask (phone orders only, good prices) what the best Hawk pad is for a 1999 Tahoe. The guy recommended the LTS pad (light truck & SUV, Part No. HB332Y.654). It is what this guy uses on his vehicles. He recommended NOT using the ceramic pad.
So, I took a chance and purchased the Hawk LTS pads. What a difference! I now have a high pedal and significantly better stopping. I used my existing rotors (the highest quality Raybestos) machined smooth at a local shop. A shame but I had to discard the brand new (300 miles) Hawk ceramic pads.
I used ACDelco rebuilds from RockAuto.com. The core charge was only $8 per so I just threw away the old calipers. I used a 3/4 ton caliper for a #8600 vehicle. GM makes a lighter caliper for their 3/4 tons but this larger bore claiper worked just fine on my Tahoe. The part numbers for one of the calipers are: ACD 18FR742 and GM 19140993 (left side); ACD 18FR741 and GM 19140992 (right side). Cost at RockAuto was $29.79 per side plus the $8 core charge and shipping.
Installation note: The bore being larger than OEM the springs that retain the inside caliper in the bore will need to be bent somewhat to hold them inside the caliper. I did not do so with no problem.
If anyone has any questions you are welcome to contact me directly at [email protected]. Again, this was great fix for me. Good luck and if anyone wants my Hawk ceramics (300 miles) cheap, let me know.
Based on what I read on this post I chose to use 3/4 ton calipers and Hawk PC (Performance Ceramic) 1/2 ton pads. The calipers worked out great, the pads not so much although the combination gave me somewhat of an improvement. By chance , while ordering some ATE Blue brake fluid from Raceshoppers.com, I took the opportunity to ask (phone orders only, good prices) what the best Hawk pad is for a 1999 Tahoe. The guy recommended the LTS pad (light truck & SUV, Part No. HB332Y.654). It is what this guy uses on his vehicles. He recommended NOT using the ceramic pad.
So, I took a chance and purchased the Hawk LTS pads. What a difference! I now have a high pedal and significantly better stopping. I used my existing rotors (the highest quality Raybestos) machined smooth at a local shop. A shame but I had to discard the brand new (300 miles) Hawk ceramic pads.
I used ACDelco rebuilds from RockAuto.com. The core charge was only $8 per so I just threw away the old calipers. I used a 3/4 ton caliper for a #8600 vehicle. GM makes a lighter caliper for their 3/4 tons but this larger bore claiper worked just fine on my Tahoe. The part numbers for one of the calipers are: ACD 18FR742 and GM 19140993 (left side); ACD 18FR741 and GM 19140992 (right side). Cost at RockAuto was $29.79 per side plus the $8 core charge and shipping.
Installation note: The bore being larger than OEM the springs that retain the inside caliper in the bore will need to be bent somewhat to hold them inside the caliper. I did not do so with no problem.
If anyone has any questions you are welcome to contact me directly at [email protected]. Again, this was great fix for me. Good luck and if anyone wants my Hawk ceramics (300 miles) cheap, let me know.
Any chance you have tested them out by slamming on the brakes at high speed (i.e. 50mph+). I'm curious to hear your impressions on low speed vs high speed stopping. If you haven't broken the pads in yet, don't test them out until you put some mileage on them...
Also, I'm assuming you are still using your factory vacuum system, or have you converted to hydroboost?
To your pt regarding ceramics. Ceramic pads are awesome when they are hot, but when they're cool (i.e driving around town, highway, etc) they do not stop as well as the LTS or Heavy Duty Pads.
I've never used Hawk Ceramics, but that is just some generic knowledge on any ceramic pad.
