Kazap
TYF Newbie
Check and grease sliding pins on calipers. Also possibly stuck or stiff brake piston. Good luck.
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Brake Pedal Pulsing And Wheel Pulling Occasionally
- Thread starter Kaeden
- Start date
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08HoeCD
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I watched a short video just two weeks ago on the "myth" of warped rotors. Take a look for yourself:
https://www.facebook.com/RaybestosBrandBrakes/videos/warped-rotor-myth/2174044739282278/
https://www.facebook.com/RaybestosBrandBrakes/videos/warped-rotor-myth/2174044739282278/
Watching to see how things turn out on this one, guys.
Mine does this too---and it's occasional, most of the time not. Doesn't yank the wheel at all, but, it's annoying and says something's wrong.
With this problem over time I've replaced the discs, rotated the tires, replaced the calipers--even though I can't see how they'd cause it--old or new. The new discs were equal thickness within .001, but, measured about .003 runout which could say a hub problem. Don't know how close they have to be.
Most recent problem was a bad speed sensor--and the whole system let me know: ABS light and the anti-lock was pulsing always until fixed. The replacement sensors seemed to reduce frequency and intensity of the problem slightly. So, I'm wondering if the speed sensor and rotor area need better cleaning.
Still, I can't figure why this problem is just occasional--gives a whole new look at the trouble shooting chart. BTW, making the problem a little bit easier is that the problem is positively in the left front because in the increased braking part of the pulse cycle, the car pitches to the left. Plus that, it never, ever happens while testing just the emergency brake.
Mine does this too---and it's occasional, most of the time not. Doesn't yank the wheel at all, but, it's annoying and says something's wrong.
With this problem over time I've replaced the discs, rotated the tires, replaced the calipers--even though I can't see how they'd cause it--old or new. The new discs were equal thickness within .001, but, measured about .003 runout which could say a hub problem. Don't know how close they have to be.
Most recent problem was a bad speed sensor--and the whole system let me know: ABS light and the anti-lock was pulsing always until fixed. The replacement sensors seemed to reduce frequency and intensity of the problem slightly. So, I'm wondering if the speed sensor and rotor area need better cleaning.
Still, I can't figure why this problem is just occasional--gives a whole new look at the trouble shooting chart. BTW, making the problem a little bit easier is that the problem is positively in the left front because in the increased braking part of the pulse cycle, the car pitches to the left. Plus that, it never, ever happens while testing just the emergency brake.
08HoeCD
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I get the same issue sporadically/periodically, completely out of the blue. It seems to go away again within a 50-100 miles driven. It used to bug me to death----even took it to the shop and asked them to advise if I need new brakes. They said, NOPE. I stopped worrying about it.
Sean James
Member
I've had warped rotors a few times in my life, the wobble matches your speed, high speed braking makes fast steering wheel vibration, low speed makes vehicle surge and slow steering wheel wobble.
You said kind of a grinding sound? The ABS control box has been known to make a buzzing sound when failing, as well as a chattering noise when the solenoids are going off, you could check the wiring connector going into the controller, known issues with the ground wires getting corrosion, and crimp connections getting loose.
You said kind of a grinding sound? The ABS control box has been known to make a buzzing sound when failing, as well as a chattering noise when the solenoids are going off, you could check the wiring connector going into the controller, known issues with the ground wires getting corrosion, and crimp connections getting loose.
Common issue you have a bad flexible brake line to the drivers side caliper. The interior lining has separated and will occasionally block the pressure or rather decrease brake fluid pressure to the drivers side causing a pull to pass side. Or vice versa. I would replace both sides and you will be good to go.
Sean James
Member
Darn! I forgot all about that, you are absolutely right. I've seen it at least 3 times over the years, one side hose is shot and somehow blocks fluid return or pressure. The first time took forever to figure out...before computers and youtube. Good post!
