Brake pads and rotors for 2013 Yukon XL 2500 4WD?

[jsoltren]

I just got a new (to me!) 2015 GMC Yukon XL 2500 SLT 4WD. It's a fantastic vehicle and will replace a well loved Denali. Read more about it here: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ving-up-from-2001-gmc-yukon-xl-denali.109814/

The 2500 needs new brake rotors as the old ones are warped (I knew this pre purchase). I'd like to replace the pads as well. This will be a tow vehicle so drilled/slotted rotors would be nice (or would they?).

What are your recommendations for best rotors and pads for this beast? Should I go drilled and slotted? Should I go ceramic? Any particularly good or bad experiences?

 

[jsoltren]

It looks like Akebono pads are well liked:
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/time-for-brakes.107235/#post-1278423
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/brake-pads.93729/page-2#post-1265644

OEM, R1, and Powerstop seem to be popular rotor options.

 

[jsoltren]

ACDelco it is. The pads are ceramic. The rotors aren't drilled or slotted - so it goes.

Pads: 19286093 front, 19286095 rear

Rotors: 19241879 front, 19241878 rear

 

[swathdiver]

GM OE or ACDelco Professional

My buddies 3/4 ton Duramax went 200K before the front rotors and hubs needed replacing.

Ceramic pads stop great and are harder on rotors.

 

[Mickey_7106]

i like hawk pads. i'll be replacing mine with the Hawk LTS and Stoptech slotted or Slotted and dimpled rotors. right now I'm trying to find a good seat of SS brake lines and a set of speed bleeders

 

[intheburbs]

OEM pads and rotors will be more than sufficient . No reason for aftermarket/over-engineered stuff. The 8600-lb gvwr braking system is plenty stout.

I bought my '08 2500 with 106k miles. Brakes were done by the dealer where I bought it. I now have 186k, and still have plenty of meat on the pads. I tow heavy - an 8600-lb trailer and a also a 3500-lb enclosed 6x12 with no trailer brakes. All OEM pads and rotors

I also did an 18-month stint driving for Uber - lots of stop and go, still no brake issues.

 

[Mickey_7106]

That may be true, but i prefer the extra stopping power that I can feel going after market.

OEM pads and rotors will be more than sufficient . No reason for aftermarket/over-engineered stuff. The 8600-lb gvwr braking system is plenty stout.

I bought my '08 2500 with 106k miles. Brakes were done by the dealer where I bought it. I now have 186k, and still have plenty of meat on the pads. I tow heavy - an 8600-lb trailer and a also a 3500-lb enclosed 6x12 with no trailer brakes. All OEM pads and rotors

I also did an 18-month stint driving for Uber - lots of stop and go, still no brake issues.

 

[intheburbs]

That may be true, but i prefer the extra stopping power that I can feel going after market.

Changing the rotors and pads isn't going to change stopping power. Maybe, just maybe, if you're towing heavy in the Rockies, the drilled/slotted rotors might reduce brake fade a little.

Stopping power is a function of caliper clamping force and size/area of the rotor stopping surface. If you're not changing either of those, you're not appreciably changing the performance of the system.

Six-piston calipers and larger-diameter rotors? Absolutely will improve stopping power.

 

[Mickey_7106]

I agree, the clamping force is the same.

But like i mentioned, I can notice a difference in stopping power from stock to aftermarket. Im not sure if it has to do with the types of material of the pads or the reduction in brake fade from slotted rotors and the type of tire i run

BTW this is just my opinion. Not trying to convince anyone of anything.

Changing the rotors and pads isn't going to change stopping power. Maybe, just maybe, if you're towing heavy in the Rockies, the drilled/slotted rotors might reduce brake fade a little.

Stopping power is a function of caliper clamping force and size/area of the rotor stopping surface. If you're not changing either of those, you're not appreciably changing the performance of the system.

Six-piston calipers and larger-diameter rotors? Absolutely will improve stopping power.

 

[Matt_]

Stopping power is a function of caliper clamping force and size/area of the rotor stopping surface. If you're not changing either of those, you're not appreciably changing the performance of the system.

Cough*and friction coefficient*cough



OP I've always used Akebono Performance series pads and Centric Premium rotors and have been pleased with the results. I haven't swapped brakes on my 2500 yet so I'm not sure how much (if any) improvement there will be over this particular setup, buts it's been a notable improvement on my 1500 series GM trucks and other SUVs,Van's, and cars (some with the Akebono ProACT if the performance line wasnt available)

More stopping power from higher friction materials usually means dirtier wheels... so manufacturers often trade that stopping power off to keep the masses happy (who wants to clean their wheels every month?). Not sure if that's also the case for the 2500s.

 

[jsoltren]

Thanks for the tips everyone. My pre-purchase inspector reported that the pads were at 80% but he found some pulsing at speed that could be the rotors. I'm getting some squealing too with light to moderate pressure. OEM pads and rotors are so inexpensive online that it was silly to not just pick them up, instead of worrying about it and paying the 200-500% markup of a local repair shop.

I get that the markups help them put dinner on their tables, but it does so by taking food off of mine, so, we all need to get along somehow. I gladly pay a premium for labor, never parts, unless it's a fuel pump at 3am in a blizzard with my family in the back...

 

[jsoltren]

These days I go OEM parts unless I've seen and tested the aftermarket part in person. OEM parts are like the waterfall development model in software engineering: it's boring, but it's dead simple, and it works.

I feel like every single non-OEM part that I've purchased has had some minor fitment issue that ruins it. Cheapo window switches? Different shape and font though claiming part compatibility. Tow mirrors? Either there is no physical way for me to see behind the vehicle, or, they don't stop short of the door, meaning that when some moron at the garage slams them closed I get a fresh dent on my door. Radios? The fitment is often poor, factory buttons don't work, and all sort of little things don't line up.

For the most part the engineers at GM did their job. Sometimes they didn't (don't get me started on broken door handles). But a fine vehicle is a system, everything needs to work together.

I'm sure GM's brake guidelines are based on real world testing, in different temperatures, with different loads up to and past GVRW. They selected the components they did for a reason. These things go in cop cars, ambulances, and the like.

I'm into airplanes too. One of my favorite videos is the Airbus A380 brake certification tests. They take brand new tires and file them down to be exactly at their minimum allowable thickness for takeoff. They do the same to the brake pads and the brake discs. Then, they fill the plane up to maximum weight (fuel plus ballast), put it on the shortest, most downhill runway allowable at max weight, wait for no wind, and abort a takeoff at the last possible instant. The plane has to stop short of the end of the runway AND remain standing for five whole minutes. The brakes and wheels catch fire doing this - they're write offs - but it works.

I don't know that GM did this with our trucks. Maybe? Would be great to see it.

On trucks, like on bicycles, I don't screw around with brakes.

 

[bfourman]

For what it’s worth I put BrakeMotive drilled & slotted rotors with Powerstop pads on my ‘00 Yukon XL 2500. I towed heavy with it and the BrakeMotive stuff worked great with no warping or fade for 4 years. Dusting was no more noticeable than OE style pads. The pads looked great the last time I had the wheels off right before I sold it. I’m going to be purchasing the same kit for my 09 Suburban 2500 soon.

The kit can be had on eBay for just over $100.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Dril...~Sdbakp3:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!46304!US!-1

 

[jsoltren]

Oh interesting. So, IIUC, for the whole truck (a 2013 GMC Yukon XL 2500) one would need:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401478875427 - "Front & Rear Drill Slot BRAKE ROTORS AND CERAMIC Pads For Silverado Suburban"

The seller is brakemotive76, https://www.ebay.com/usr/brakemotive76

 

[bfourman]

Correct. I never got around to upgrading the rear brakes because they are beefy as-is and the front takes the brunt of braking. IIRC 3/4 ton rear brakes are the same calipers and pads as 1/2 ton front brakes, with 8 lug rotors obviously.

 

[intheburbs]

<snip>

I'm sure GM's brake guidelines are based on real world testing, in different temperatures, with different loads up to and past GVRW. They selected the components they did for a reason. These things go in cop cars, ambulances, and the like.

<snip>

I don't know that GM did this with our trucks. Maybe? Would be great to see it.

On trucks, like on bicycles, I don't screw around with brakes.

I work with the auto industry. I also have a friend who's a transmission validation engineer at GM. He works at the Milford proving grounds, and basically flogs vehicles for a living. He was complaining a few months ago about having to do 100 full-throttle clutch-drop 1/4-mile runs and hard, full power at-lockup braking stops in the new Camaro ZL1. While it sounds like fun, it actually gets pretty tedious after the first few dozen or so.

My point is that, yes, GM has put these braking systems through the wringer, likely much worse than we've ever done. While I'm not a fan of the half-ton braking system, the 8600-GVWR OEM setup leaves me wanting for nothing. I've had to make two panic stops running at my max 16,000-lb GCWR with an 8800-lb GVWR, and had no concerns or issues. And I also didn't plow into anyone or anything in front of me. Though we had quite a mess to clean up in the trailer.

 

[jsoltren]

Pads and rotors are here! All AC Delco parts. I'm hoping to get them installed next week. Thanks everyone!

 

[Doubeleive]

well since nobody drives like I do, I will just say good premium ceramic pads make all the difference in the world as far as stopping power and longevity, the only thing better technically is carbon fiber but they are noisy and make tons of dust.

 

[FoghrnLeghrn]

I sell different brands of brakes and the customers always have great things to say about the Powerstop truck\tow pads and rotors. When I need brakes it's what I will use.

 

[jsoltren]

I went with OEM rotors and pads on my 3/4 ton. They're fine. Nothing to write home about, just good, reasonable street brakes.

My mechanic buddy reminds me that the trouble with drilled and slotted rotors is that you can't turn them if they need it. Though, he also reminds me that he prefers to just swap out the entire rotor instead of turning them these days.