Brake issues post cam swap

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BlackedOutHoe

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Hi all - running into some brake annoyances post cam swap and wanted to see if any guru's had some insight.

A few weeks ago I cam swapped my '03 5.3 with a BTR Truck Norris cam. Also did valve seals, valve springs, lifters and lifter trays, pushrods, head gaskets, etc etc

Prior to the cam swap, I was getting an intermittent "Service Brake System" light. I didn't think anything of it as it would come around for a day of driving, then go away for a month.

Immediately after the cam swap, I am now getting the SBS lights on the dash every time I drive it. I am now also getting a weird noise/brake pedal feel when depressing the brake pedal. To describe the sound, it's almost like a buzzing that lasts for 2-5 seconds.

I took it to my local shop that I trust to have my brake booster (vacuum system) replaced as the truck is surging a bit at lights under brake. They drove it for the day and called this afternoon stating they didn't think it was booster related, but more ABS related.

Before I start throwing $$ at this, I wanted to see if any of y'all have had similar issues, and if so how you fixed?

Many thanks!
 
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BlackedOutHoe

BlackedOutHoe

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Well, getting the code with a capable scanner would likely help direct your diagnostics and your $$.
I will see if the shop sees any codes thrown. Just wasn't sure if anyone has ran into this personally. I was convinced it was a vacuum issue that was made worse post cam.
 

Joseph Garcia

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Hi all - running into some brake annoyances post cam swap and wanted to see if any guru's had some insight.

A few weeks ago I cam swapped my '03 5.3 with a BTR Truck Norris cam. Also did valve seals, valve springs, lifters and lifter trays, pushrods, head gaskets, etc etc

Prior to the cam swap, I was getting an intermittent "Service Brake System" light. I didn't think anything of it as it would come around for a day of driving, then go away for a month.

Immediately after the cam swap, I am now getting the SBS lights on the dash every time I drive it. I am now also getting a weird noise/brake pedal feel when depressing the brake pedal. To describe the sound, it's almost like a buzzing that lasts for 2-5 seconds.

I took it to my local shop that I trust to have my brake booster (vacuum system) replaced as the truck is surging a bit at lights under brake. They drove it for the day and called this afternoon stating they didn't think it was booster related, but more ABS related.

Before I start throwing $$ at this, I wanted to see if any of y'all have had similar issues, and if so how you fixed?

Many thanks!
This is where quality diagnostic equipment is an essential item for your toolbox. As @Fless stated, if there is a DIC warning, there is a trouble code to be obtained, and these trouble codes often lead you directly to the root cause of the issue. This is how you avoid the parts cannon.

Do you have, or have access to, a quality bi-directional scanner? If not, I recommend that you get yourself a quality bi-directional scanner to add to your tool box. Then, you will be able to read ALL trouble codes, along with a brief explanation/pointer to the source of your issue. You can test many of the truck's electronic functions with the scanner, in order to determine the source of an issue. You will also be able to reset/delete trouble codes, after taking corrective action. You will literally save thousands of dollars in diagnostic and repair costs over the life of your truck, and you will most likely recoup the cost of the scanner within 1 year.
 

Mudsport96

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Fun fact. If you have your vehicle and it is doing the buzzing and pedal pulse when slowing below 15 mph. You can get on a stretch of road where you are able to get to 30 mph, then with your left foot braking, slow to 15mph where the pulsing and buzzing begins, at that point use your right foot to maintain speed so that the buzzing continues. After about 50 feet the abs will disable itself till the next key cycle.
If this fixes your problem you now know it is an electrical problem with the abs and not a mechanical problem with the vehicle.
I would guess it is probably a bad wheel speed sensor, that is what it has been for me in the past. You will need a good scanner to know which one.
 

Foxy

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What kind of tune did you use once you finished the Camshaft swap?
 

swathdiver

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What is required to read those SBS codes?
A bi-directional scan tool. My kids have IPhones with the CarScanner app from the apple store, freebie. They can read ALL codes with the OBDII adapter which happens to be a FOSEAL. We use both Bluetooth and WIFI versions. I can only read engine codes with Torque Pro with my Android.

The OP is having an issue with his ABS. Might need bleeding or repair/replacement. That camshaft is supposed to have enough vacuum to run brakes but if it was advanced or retarded during installation it may affect vacuum, don't know.

Probably need a new EBCM. I bought a GM OE one from AutoZone last year for hundreds less than everyone else.
 

Dantheman1540

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A bi-directional scan tool. My kids have IPhones with the CarScanner app from the apple store, freebie. They can read ALL codes with the OBDII adapter which happens to be a FOSEAL. We use both Bluetooth and WIFI versions. I can only read engine codes with Torque Pro with my Android.

The OP is having an issue with his ABS. Might need bleeding or repair/replacement. That camshaft is supposed to have enough vacuum to run brakes but if it was advanced or retarded during installation it may affect vacuum, don't know.

Probably need a new EBCM. I bought a GM OE one from AutoZone last year for hundreds less than everyone else.
Shop diagnosed it as the EBCM, quoted him like $1600. Is it an easy replacement?
 

Foxy

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Try getting a professional shop to tune it before you go throwing money at it. Also a 3000 stall converter could help with the brakes also. But I don't believe your cam is aggressive enough for that. Most likely culprit is the tune itself.
 

swathdiver

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Shop diagnosed it as the EBCM, quoted him like $1600. Is it an easy replacement?
The computer itself is 4 bolts and pretty easy. It attaches to the ABS Pump, must be clean and should come with new bolts and an o-ring type gasket.

Replacing the whole pump can be a pain if the brake lines are rotten from rust.
 
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BlackedOutHoe

BlackedOutHoe

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A bi-directional scan tool. My kids have IPhones with the CarScanner app from the apple store, freebie. They can read ALL codes with the OBDII adapter which happens to be a FOSEAL. We use both Bluetooth and WIFI versions. I can only read engine codes with Torque Pro with my Android.

The OP is having an issue with his ABS. Might need bleeding or repair/replacement. That camshaft is supposed to have enough vacuum to run brakes but if it was advanced or retarded during installation it may affect vacuum, don't know.

Probably need a new EBCM. I bought a GM OE one from AutoZone last year for hundreds less than everyone else.
can you clear the code after a part is fixed, or just read it?
 

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