Brake Fluid Flush

[DaneS]

I just changed out my brake fluid in preparation for hauling a trailer from CO to FL. The pedal didn’t feel like mush but the reservoir was not looking impressive. I picked up a Motiv Pressure Bleeder and some Amsoil fluid. The bleeder made it a breeze without anybody else. Totally worth the $50 especially if you have other GM vehicles.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TK9FE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I cracked the first bleeder screw, I about crapped my pants. The fluid was very dark and dirty, much worse than was was in the reservoir. Each caliper yielded the same result so I pushed 4 bottles through the system, then topped off the reservoir. What a difference! I thought the pedal felt ok before but it evidently didn’t. Now it is nice and firm and stopping is noticeably quicker. If you aren’t changing your brake fluid regularly, it’s a simple job and good fluid is pretty cheap. No reason to skip this job, both for your truck’s longevity and your own safety.

 

[swat2380]

I just changed out my brake fluid in preparation for hauling a trailer from CO to FL. The pedal didn’t feel like mush but the reservoir was not looking impressive. I picked up a Motiv Pressure Bleeder and some Amsoil fluid. The bleeder made it a breeze without anybody else. Totally worth the $50 especially if you have other GM vehicles.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TK9FE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I cracked the first bleeder screw, I about crapped my pants. The fluid was very dark and dirty, much worse than was was in the reservoir. Each caliper yielded the same result so I pushed 4 bottles through the system, then topped off the reservoir. What a difference! I thought the pedal felt ok before but it evidently didn’t. Now it is nice and firm and stopping is noticeably quicker. If you aren’t changing your brake fluid regularly, it’s a simple job and good fluid is pretty cheap. No reason to skip this job, both for your truck’s longevity and your own safety.

I made a post about this last year mine had all kinds of nasty stuff coming out

 

[thompsoj22]

so does your method still require pumping the pedal and opening/closing the caliper bleed valves? I have allways paid or avoided doing this maint based upon fear of the system being worse than when i started! so this motive bleeder is dummy proof?

 

[drakon543]

i generally get stuck doing brake jobs solo so ive always just used a pipe and found a spot on the driver seat i could wedge a pipe.

 

[usnret]

+1 on the Motive unit. Works like a charm. Yes, you have to open the bleed screws but the unit keeps a supply of new fluid in the reservoir. Just have to keep an eye on the pressure in the tank.

 

[BeenChevy]

If your bleeders are still intact - great! If not, go get yourself new ones before starting. Spray a little seafoam into the threads after cracking or removing them. I used to replace them annually up in the rust belt.

I have good luck cracking the bleeders through 4-4" pre-cut tubes of 1/4" fishing aquarium tube into 4 solo cups and filling the reservoir simultaneous. Once fluid coming out looks similar to what's going in; close the bleeders (starting furthest away) first, until you're left at the drivers front. I usually end up with a quarter bottle of fluid leftover.

After the bleeders are closed give a good pedal to floor depression and check the reservoir is still near max. Pump the pedal until firm and refill reservoir to max if needed.

As for the bleeders I clean them off with a clean rag and brake cleaner and coat them with liquid electrical tape - L.E.T. is non-corrosive and peels away like plasti-dip (unlike silicone). This does a good job preserving them through the salty winters. EZ-PZ

 

[latvius]

It has a pump handle, so you screw it onto the reservoir, where the cap was, then pump it up to pressurize it (like pumping brake pedal), Go to your wheel and bleed out the fluid.
They also make little clear plastic bottles with clear tubing you can connect to the wheels to catch the fluid.
If you have other vehicles they make the master cyl adaptors you can buy for them as well.

 

[BeenChevy]

They're all overkill for these trucks. Let gravity draw the fluid and sediment out and any air in the line's work it's way to the master.

Pressurizing fluid in the master also pins air in the lines and can work against physics.

Bleed bottles suck ass in my opinion when you can just cut up some cheap aquarium tubing. The plastic tubing that comes in brakebleed kits is usually 1 time use only and 3/16" diameter (too small). Brake fluid quickly deforms it and they fall off the bleed nipples. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[latvius]

So you don't pump the brakes, just open the bleeder?

They're all overkill for these trucks. Let gravity draw the fluid and sediment out and any air in the line's work it's way to the master.

Pressurizing fluid in the master also pins air in the lines and can work against physics.

Bleed bottles suck ass in my opinion when you can just cut up some cheap aquarium tubing. The plastic tubing that comes in brakebleed kits is usually 1 time use only and 3/16" diameter (too small). Brake fluid quickly deforms it and they fall off the bleed nipples. Correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[BeenChevy]

So you don't pump the brakes, just open the bleeder?

Correct. Open the cap on your master, connect your tubing to the bleeder barb and crack it, and let'er run out. If your length of tube is long enough to reach down into your 'solo' cup and you want to feather the peddle a bit you can, just pour a little fluid into the bottom of your cup as not to suck air into the system.. really though once the tube fills with fluid, no need to pump. Allow the old to come out until clean, keeping an eye on the level in your master and work your way from the caliper furthest from master to the closest..