Bose amp bypass?

[Timmy]

bingo!

see, that wasn't so hard.

 

[blueflamed03]

ppfftt....run it for a couple hours to let glue settle, cool...and power up. I never break them in for 20 hours.

 

[Timmy]

ppfftt....run it for a couple hours to let glue settle, cool...and power up. I never break them in for 20 hours.

i don't think i have either.

 

[blueflamed03]

plug, play moderate, boom, ready to jam....

 

[JKmotorsports]

Breaking in subs is good practice. The spiders are usually stiff when new. If you put a lot of power to the sub, the added mechanical resistance will heat the coils more than normal, possibly causing premature failure. Once the spider breaks in and loosens up, the entire assembly can move more freely and the coil(s) stay cooler.

 

[blueflamed03]

my thoughts, and had good conversations with Gary Biggs and Mark Eldridge about this, is the glue and spider, do have to relax somewhat. Glue smell will be promt during break in, but to get the best 'sound' out of the driver, sure, break them in to loosen it up to get max parameters.
But on the flip side, I've seen many SPL guys load a woofer in out of the box, hammer the you know what out of it and it's fine. Some are actually louder when the suspension is stiff.
I say run it for a day moderately, then your ok. And they were correct, safely set gains.
The way his particular L7, it has a t-cut top plate, so pretty much the coil stays in the gap longerfor better cooling, and it has a vented top plate, along with side vents.

But either way, start moderate, then you should be good to go by Friday

 

[hornsfan44]

The best way would be to replace the speakers first. The BOSE amp redirects the proper frequency range to the corresponding speakers, i.e. high frequencies to the tweets, midrange to the mid drivers, etc. In other words, a built in x-over. Unless you add a passive x-over to the factory components, you'll end up damaging the tweets, even at low to moderate volume.
You can add an in-line cap to the tweets and run the mid-driver and tweeter parallel. At the amp there are seperate wires for the front mids, tweeters, rear speakers, and of course the sub.

Front left mid: tan+, grey-
Front right mid: lt green+, dark green-
Rear left: brown+, yellow-
Rear right: dark blue+, light blue-

I don't remember the tweeter wire colors off-hand, but this will get you started in case you decide to do it.

So..... when I get my components like I had posted about earlier, Do I need to splice the mid to exisiting wiring and the tweet also to the factory wiring in the pillar...... Or do I utilize the crossover that comes with the components????

 

[sdgd711]

So..... when I get my components like I had posted about earlier, Do I need to splice the mid to exisiting wiring and the tweet also to the factory wiring in the pillar...... Or do I utilize the crossover that comes with the components????

The tweeters are actually paralleled off the front speaker with a cap mounted to the tweeter, they are not crossed over inside the amp. You will need to use the crossover that comes with the component set you get.

 

[hornsfan44]

Awesome. Thanks for the tip

 

[GMC Tough 05' Denali]

Does anyone know what the Wire Codes going into the BOSE amp in 05' Denali?
And Yes I know this is Low Level Input.

---------- Post added at 02:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:14 PM ----------

I am not planning on Replacing Factory IN-Dash/ Nav. Unit. Just want to add a seperate controller, and add my Tablet into the MIX for Entertainment Functionality.