Big 3 Tweak
- Thread starter 2000Yukon
- Start date
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ROBERTOcritser
Full Access Member
I just posted a thread about what to do with my system... maybe I should try this
yooformula
Full Access Member
where exactly do you have that ground strap going to from the alt bracket?
There"s a bolt straight behind it on the firewall with another ground that is braded steel.
rigo_jones
going against
ill probably try this. btw is there an alternator up grade for our trucks?
BlizzardX23
Full Access Member
Would it harm any part of my truck if I just did a swap and installed that 230 AMP Alternator out?
Eagle
Thansk for all the help -STAFF!
no but the 230 will not last as long, and may not put out as much current at IDLE or just off idle, where most people complain of 'dimming' issues.
I'd want to see a chart showing the output vs rpm, since the overdrive pulley might have something to do with performance gains at idle.
the 190 would be moy choice of the ones listed...
unless you have 3-4 1000w amps, then I;d run a second audio-only battery and second audio-only alternator.
At that point i;d have to ask
"WTF are you thinking driving around like that!?"
"... huh? I can't hear you!"
I'd want to see a chart showing the output vs rpm, since the overdrive pulley might have something to do with performance gains at idle.
the 190 would be moy choice of the ones listed...
unless you have 3-4 1000w amps, then I;d run a second audio-only battery and second audio-only alternator.
At that point i;d have to ask
"WTF are you thinking driving around like that!?"
"... huh? I can't hear you!"
I moved the wire from the alternator to the red box, instead of the positive on the battery and now my headlights don't dim even when I'm pounding my sub.
can you go into a little more detail as to what wire is going from where to where? i see you added 2 wires to the red box, im assuming the clear wire is from the battery (+) to the red box and then i see a black wire going towards the bottom of the vehicle out of view and i cant tell what thats for or to. i also see that you still have a wire connected to your alternator but cant see where it goes either.... ive upgraded my big 3 with 1/0 wire and am still having some dimming, so im interested in your fix. thanks!
yooformula
Full Access Member
on top of the alt there is the the terminal with a black wire coming from it, that wire goes to the red box and appears to be hidden below but it just loops up. The other black wire on the front of the alt housing is the ground strap that goes to the firewall. that silver wire from the red box either goes to the pos on the battery or is his power wire for his amp.
but i dont get how that would help the dimming issue any from this setup... running the clear wire from (+) straight to alt makes alot more sense to me...
redemn93
Full Access Member
looks like its the amp power wire. not a cable to the battery. or am i wrong?
it could be.... so running the amp hot wire straight to the alt term, might be better than beefing up the (+) from battery to alt term?
yooformula
Full Access Member
In his first post, he stated he moved the wire from the alt to the red box instead of the battery so that is NOT his amp wired directly to the alt.
I moved the wire from the alternator to the red box, instead of the positive on the battery and now my headlights don't dim even when I'm pounding my sub.
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right, but if you look at the black wire coming off the alternator terminal it looks long enough like it was originally ran all the way to the (+) battery post and now it just loops up to the red box. so that leads me to believe that the clear wire is actually the amp hot wire. so i was thinking why bring the amp wire to the box and not just go straight to the alt? like whats the significance of the that box in the big 3 upgrade that running the 3 upgrade wires directly bypassing that box wont do?
matt14
Full Access Member
I have my power wire for the amp going to the red box as well, then the alt wire was also upgraded, but not going to the battery. Right now, the positive battery cable is the stock cable, and will eventually upgrade that to 1/0 when i upgrade the battery next year. Battery, chasis grounds are all upgraded to 1/0. Will try and get some pics tommorrow. I still have like 25feet of 1/0 laying around from the install
right now all my big 3 are 1/0. my amp wires are all 4 gauge and will be upgraded as soon as i get the dough. i have 4 ga hot wire from front battery to a yellow top under back seat and then from yellow top to the amp respectively. i have enough slack to move the hot wire to the box, do you think it will help?
matt14
Full Access Member
Not sure, the only reason i ran it this way cause i needed somewhere to run B+ to and diddnt have a longer battery stud to accomadate the terminal and the stock B+ terminal. When I od get a upgraded battery, it will be top and side post so that the power cable for the car will still be ran off the side post, then the amp wire will be ran to the top post.
matt14
Full Access Member
Finally got around to get some pics of the grounds and alt wire. This was all done in Knu Konceptz power wire and the fuse holder and fuses are also from Knu Konceptz. The grounds were wrapped with wire loom and electrical tape. Cant see in the pic, but the chasis ground was also done.
ThwopKing
Full Access Member
Not to beat a dead horse or bring a dead thread back...but Matt in your pic there doesnt seem to be the big ground going from the alt bracket to the firewall or where like in the original poster's pic you said that wire on yours went to the chassis...any pics of where on the chassis?
