ItsAdam1
Master Fabricator
ya 110-135 is no where enough pressure I am running 200 psi in all my bagged cars with 3/8 line. You will need at least 175 psi to lift the front end of these heavy trucks.
BAGS going in!!!
- Thread starter SSmurdered
- Start date
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very true. i couldnt get this ***** off the ground unless i had bout 180.
and believe it or not this damn eclipse needed almost 200 to pop up the front cylinders. (cylinders=******** fyi)
every vehicle ive done was 1/2 valves and 1/2 line. i like to be able to lock it up quick. if youre going for the slow up and down then youll be fine. but you still want a bigger pressure switch. at least up to 200.. get an adjustable switch from suicidedoors.com they arent expensive. and itll be the best one youll ever have.
im bored.sorry
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Not cut?
wow thats him? damn... i saw running boards almost touching on stockies and figured it was a stock 4 link drop. my bad
OKLAGMCRUISER
Need drop...send $
I ran 150 pressure switch on my ext cab sierra and was able to lift from fully laid without a problem, but i was running 18 gal of air and an edc.
if you are running less than 8 valves then check valves are a must to stop transfer! 3/8" valves are plenty fast...1/2" are even faster, but you can go the cheap route and get hex head plugs and drill holes in them to slow down your discharge valves for easier control OR go with ride control plugs that are adjustable. Remember to add a schrader valve (to manually fill your system in case of compressor failure or if you're running nitro and you empty a tank and get stranded laid out) to atleast one of your tanks and a petcock valve to the bottom of each tank to drain your moisture that gets past your moisture traps!
Keep in mind too that not all tanks that are OTC purchased or online are rated for higher pressures such as 175 or 200...verify before purchasing to keep from hurting yourself or someone else.
if you are running less than 8 valves then check valves are a must to stop transfer! 3/8" valves are plenty fast...1/2" are even faster, but you can go the cheap route and get hex head plugs and drill holes in them to slow down your discharge valves for easier control OR go with ride control plugs that are adjustable. Remember to add a schrader valve (to manually fill your system in case of compressor failure or if you're running nitro and you empty a tank and get stranded laid out) to atleast one of your tanks and a petcock valve to the bottom of each tank to drain your moisture that gets past your moisture traps!
Keep in mind too that not all tanks that are OTC purchased or online are rated for higher pressures such as 175 or 200...verify before purchasing to keep from hurting yourself or someone else.
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AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
Well said!!!
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
i didnt get the brackets from airbagit, i just got the top and bottom plates. wasnt going to weld them on either, going to make them bolt on so if i wanna go back to stock i can. im not looking for speed this is my daily driver i just want some adjustability and a more comfortable ride. i was told that it will only take 50psi to lift the rear to ride height?? once i do the fronts if im having trouble lifting ill just upgrade the compressor and press. switch. ill have to double check this tank for the pressure rating.
fatnlowtahoe504
Full Access Member
put some pictures up of those brackets for the rear i might do some as well
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
will do. ups is on schedule for wednesday, sadly not sooner. i plan on having the whole rear done next weekend. ill probably do step by step pics for all yalls.
STAY TUNED GENTS!
50 should lift your rear end. slow but itll get it up there. idk why youd have to upgrade your compressor to get the front up if its not enough. just the pressure switch. unless you plan on runnin the shit out of the compressor.
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
my compressor is max at 150psi, some peeps said they needed more than that. but fast bags arent my vision.
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
got my package on wednesday from airbagit.com, and a trip to home depot today makes my rear kit complete if my calculations are correct. tomorrow is the day!! got my buddys dads shop for the day to start hackin. excited and nervous hope all goes well. ill post a full write up with pics when its all done.
fatnlowtahoe504
Full Access Member
on standby....
AtomicHoe094
Atomichoe094
still waiting.. lol
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
ok so i got most of the install done today. ofcourse my shop time was cut short and couldnt finish it completely(i need my own garage BAD). still gotta weld the bag brackets together and pop them in, the lines are all there and ready togo. heres a few pics to hold yall over.
shock and sway disconnected with the spring out ready to cut out the bump stop
bump stop out and cleaned up
tank valves compressor mounted in spare tire location
bag next to the djm -3" spring
dual needle gauge mocked up in the old onstar spot
trying to get a spot in the shop on wednesday to finish it up.
shock and sway disconnected with the spring out ready to cut out the bump stop
bump stop out and cleaned up
tank valves compressor mounted in spare tire location
bag next to the djm -3" spring
dual needle gauge mocked up in the old onstar spot
trying to get a spot in the shop on wednesday to finish it up.
matt14
Full Access Member
Lookin good so far. How much longer left?
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
im shootin for wednesday, but the wife has other plans for us im sure. sunday at the latest. 2 jobs and school is killing me for "tahoe time"
OP
OP
SSmurdered
i know u see me
ok mfers!!!!! got these pics of the rear setup done!!!! it was my first air ride install, so i came into this kinda blind except from what i gathered online. im really happy how it turned out. goes up quicker than i thought it would (doesnt hop but takes like a second to go from aired out to like 100psi). hitting the switch just gives me an instant *****. rides way better than my djm -3" coil did. it seriously took 20 hours between today and last sunday to get it done(first timer remember). ok heres the pics.
switchs and gauge
axle with factory coil perch
some scrap steel for the upper cups
little torch for cutting to length(1 3/4 tall)
some heat and a vice to round the cup to the plate
good people right here
trimmed the ring off the bottom perch
lower plate. bolt welded to plate, plate welded to axle
top plate complete. i used the top plate i got off airbagit.com, the scrap steel 1.75 tall, stud welded to the cup for bolting it into the factory upper perch. i wanted to make the bags removable so if i need to swap them or whatever, so to put the bag in i twist the bag down onto the bottom plate then set the stud from the upper mount into the hole i drilled in the factory perch then bolt it tight. simple and genius i might add! jk
all in place and bolted up
heres the finale.... heres aired up about 100psi
heres aided out almost all the way about 10psi. those are 26x10s with 305/30/26s just clearing the quarter panel!!! might go a smidge lower at 0psi.
heres the gauge again with pressure to it, tank psi at 135 and rear bag pressure at ride hieght 45psi
sorry for the blurry camera phone pics. cant wait to start the front, might wait til winter when i spray my wheels pewter to match the hoe.
---------- Post added at 12:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:35 AM ----------
reminder of the hoe with the old lowering springs ( thats about what it looks like at ride hieght with the bags)
im still using my sway bar and panhard w/ the free travel mode and the hardware kit. used 2600 series bags NOT 2500, just about 1/4 inch clearance to the frame
switchs and gauge
axle with factory coil perch
some scrap steel for the upper cups
little torch for cutting to length(1 3/4 tall)
some heat and a vice to round the cup to the plate
good people right here
trimmed the ring off the bottom perch
lower plate. bolt welded to plate, plate welded to axle
top plate complete. i used the top plate i got off airbagit.com, the scrap steel 1.75 tall, stud welded to the cup for bolting it into the factory upper perch. i wanted to make the bags removable so if i need to swap them or whatever, so to put the bag in i twist the bag down onto the bottom plate then set the stud from the upper mount into the hole i drilled in the factory perch then bolt it tight. simple and genius i might add! jk
all in place and bolted up
heres the finale.... heres aired up about 100psi
heres aided out almost all the way about 10psi. those are 26x10s with 305/30/26s just clearing the quarter panel!!! might go a smidge lower at 0psi.
heres the gauge again with pressure to it, tank psi at 135 and rear bag pressure at ride hieght 45psi
sorry for the blurry camera phone pics. cant wait to start the front, might wait til winter when i spray my wheels pewter to match the hoe.
---------- Post added at 12:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:35 AM ----------
reminder of the hoe with the old lowering springs ( thats about what it looks like at ride hieght with the bags)
im still using my sway bar and panhard w/ the free travel mode and the hardware kit. used 2600 series bags NOT 2500, just about 1/4 inch clearance to the frame
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matt14
Full Access Member
****, tuckin 26's! So on a scale of 1-10, how difficult was it to install and how much expierance do you have wrenchin?
