bagging the rear!! ''set n forget''

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Badluck

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goozdenali

Did you get the offset sway bar struts with your 3/5 kit? It moves the sway bar to the passenger side to clear the panhard bracket. Here's a shot of my passenger side.

---------- Post added at 09:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:02 AM ----------

fatnlowtahoe504

Do you really need to do a c-notch with a "static" bag set-up. I know it will allow for more clearance but I don't know how much movement the bags allow vs. springs?

What is your set-up right now? I want my truck to sit like yours does in your avatar.
 
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goozdenali

goozdenali

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well BADLUCK after looking at the picture i just noticed that i had it wrong. I had the endlink on the wrong side of the sway bar wich diddnt allow it to shift over enough to clear the bracket:Stupid Me: such a rookie mistake, thanks for the pic definitly helped.

---------- Post added at 10:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:13 AM ----------

as for the c-notch?? im not gonna do it unless i need it, im gonna see if it actually hits the frame if so ill do it. but most likely it will need to be done
 

MOBmentality

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Do you really need to do a c-notch with a "static" bag set-up. I know it will allow for more clearance but I don't know how much movement the bags allow vs. springs?

Depends on psi and rear end height.. but most shops will only charge you like 200$ to do a C notch (specially in this financial climate lol) and worst case scenario it allows for some more travel..


I dont have front shocks either right now... IF you run the dominator bags they are super stiff and act kinda like a shock.. going from standard bags to these was like putting new shocks on the truck...

But my new setup WILL have shocks and dominators also.. its still a little loose..not "stock"


DItching the rear sway bar completely is not too big of a deal.. BUT if you do it make sure you run 4 valves in the rear.. 2 up 2 down.. because if you run 2 sets... ONE to air up both rear bags and ONE down.. it involves a T fitting and allows air to travel from side to side.. not only will this promote sway.. but on long corner such as an on ramp, it can push the air from one bag and nearly double air content in the other bag.. if youre already at 150-200psi.. this can force devastating pressure into the other bag..

So keep sway bars.. or run 4 valves per axle.

---------- Post added at 10:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:22 AM ----------

your panhard will be a whole nother issue though if you get too low.. it will create too much rear end shift.. and you will need to have it shortened(lengthened? i forget) like .5-1.25 inches.. so at drop it keeps the rear end centered and doesnt rub on the passenger side
 

Badluck

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goozdenali

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing and wondered what the banging noise coning from the rear was. I noticed the indent the sway bar was leaving on the bracket and figured it out. The instructions that come with my kit left a lot to be desired.

Re. the air movement between bags while cornering. Am I understanding this correctly that I should run each bag independent and each bag will have it's own shrader valve?
 

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goozdenali

Don't feel bad, I did the same thing and wondered what the banging noise coning from the rear was. I noticed the indent the sway bar was leaving on the bracket and figured it out. The instructions that come with my kit left a lot to be desired.

Re. the air movement between bags while cornering. Am I understanding this correctly that I should run each bag independent and each bag will have it's own shrader valve?


I kinda started talking true air and got off point a second.. 4 valves was obviously a reference to an onboard air set up..

.. but yes.. on a set n forget you should run each one their own shrader..

Crossover air is where alot of the sway comes from.
 

MOBmentality

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Each bag takes X amount of force to make it inflate.. with the value of X increasing with the physical volume of air increasing..

When running separate lines you allow the bag to work as a spring dependent on its ability to maintain X

When running one line you destroy the value by letting the trucks weight force air from one bag to the other, instead of letting the bag act as a spring it lets the downside bag release this high pressure situation by forcing the air into the bag with less pressure (the high side of the turn) and over stretching the low pressure bag on the high side. By creating a high pressure situation , Since the trucks weight will out weigh the psi of the low pressure bag all the way till failure..

Basically.. making a hard turn or long rolling turn can force the ONE bag on what should be the low pressure side to hold up to 2 times the volume of air its accustomed to.. and since the value of X goes up with volume Twice as much air can be as much as 4times as much psi.

Causes bad sway .. can ruin bags.. and will make the left side of your tuck lean a lil when it has a full tank
 

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Young28

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mob on your setup you going to run individual corners? 8 valves?

no more chevy lean for me! :pepper:
 

Young28

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When u say 8 valves is that so each corner can go up and down indivisually

yea so you can control each bag. yes it necessary no prob not. I just like to have it set up that way just in case there is a leak somewhere.
 
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goozdenali

goozdenali

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Does that mean each bag is will have its own switch, I ask this cuz I would rather have 1 switch to raise the rear end over having to raise each bag indivisually
 

Max

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You can run the switchbox to dump or fill both simultaneously or individually. I'm doing a digital interface with adjustable sensor links similar to the factory autoride system otherwise you'll just have to go off gauge psi and measure so you know what makes it sit level.
 

MOBmentality

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Does that mean each bag is will have its own switch, I ask this cuz I would rather have 1 switch to raise the rear end over having to raise each bag indivisually

mine has 6 valves now... one to lift both front.. and one to lower both front.. i can do this because it still has a sway bar.. and one to lift and one to lower each rear..

But i only have 2 switches .. front and back.

But on a set n forget none of this matters.. just run your two shraders.. one to each bag..




And trick.. my new setup is gonna have 8 but still only two switches.
 
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goozdenali

goozdenali

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The reason why I ask is cuz ya I'm doing set n forget but I'm also buying everything to complete the whole truck bagged all around with tank, compressor, ect
 

MOBmentality

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The reason why I ask is cuz ya I'm doing set n forget but I'm also buying everything to complete the whole truck bagged all around with tank, compressor, ect

wanna buy a set of 24s.. guaranteed to tuck.. painted to match? :-D
 

Young28

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Does that mean each bag is will have its own switch, I ask this cuz I would rather have 1 switch to raise the rear end over having to raise each bag indivisually

See i personally like to have 4 switches for the individual bags then i have 1 for both front up and down and 1 for the back that does the same thing. Its personal preference i guess. So ill have 6 switches all together.

Since im running such a big wheel i want to make sure the pressure in the corners are good. The back isnt that big of a deal its just the front im worry about.
 
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goozdenali

goozdenali

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6 switches I'm thinking about going that route as well. MOB thanks for the offer but money is going to my suspension right now, but I'm sure you can get them sold
 

MOBmentality

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6 switches I'm thinking about going that route as well. MOB thanks for the offer but money is going to my suspension right now, but I'm sure you can get them sold

i was half kidding.. still looking for someone who will make my new wheels. They ARE for sale.. but.. it a was premature joke.
 

Badluck

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Where are you at with this Mod?

I'm still waiting for my djm upper control arms to reset the front and get within alignment specs then I'll order up the rear bag set-up.
 

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