At what mileage do Tahoes start to see serious problems?

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jdjeffries

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I've loved the 2000-2006 Tahoe for years now and am in the market for an 04-06 Z71. I see one for sale with 124,000 miles. I'm wondering if there are any articles or any other sense from you all about how many miles are too many. I've heard these run forever, which leads me to believe that an '04 with 124,000 miles on it won't give me problems for a while, but perhaps you guys can shed some light on that. To give another example, a salesman tried to sell me an '04 with 207,000 miles on it saying it'll easily go 300,000-400,000 miles.

At what point does this model Tahoe start seeing major problems? if you all were in the market for an 04-06 Z71, how many miles would be too many for you to buy one (assuming, of course, that you did a good inspection and it looked like it was in great shape)? What kinds of things start to go wrong at, say, 150,000 miles and then 200,000 miles, etc.?

Really appreciate your thoughts. I'm excited to find the right Tahoe.
 

M Hankel

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I purchased mine w 170,000 on it. Its got over 240,000 on it now and the only things I've replaced due to failure are the fuel pump and water pump. I'd say yours is barely broken in if it's been well cared for.

Mike
 

Mighty Mouse

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You're asking for someone to predict the future. lol Anyhow mine has 03 Hoe144k and is on it's 3rd trans. Buddy has a 03 Burb almost identical to my Hoe with over 200k on it with it's origional trans still going strong. Every vehicle has it's quirks but overall I think you will be fine but don't get upset if something does happen. I wouldn't hesitate to buy one with 120k on it as long as it's not all wheel drive.
 

JochenWoern

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'04 Yukon here with 138K on the clock. Original Tranny and fuel pump, water pump was replaced approx. 2 months/3k miles ago. No other major issues other than normal maintenance, brakes, belts, had some oil cooler lines leaking and replaced those, but really nothing major.

120-130k miles is nothing if the truck has been properly maintained.
 

Rivieraracing

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I have an '02 Denali XL with 160,000 on it, bought it with 105,000 6 years ago and only major things to go wrong/replace have been the fuel pump and water pump. I love the truck and have no plans on replacing it anytime soon!
 

mattluttrell

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I believe you are looking at a sweet spot for mileage. 124K gets you in the lower non warranty price range but gives another comfortable 70K miles before resell starts to nose dive.

Don't worry about the transmission. Fluid change was recommended at 100K. If it didn't happen you can expect to change it and get a long time out of it.

I would expect to get a relatively long, maintenance free stretch of miles aside from ABS module, spark plugs and other small stuff.
 

Moose912

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Had an 01 I bought new. Had 197 when I sold it in 06. Only ever did a fuel pump aside from routine maintenance. They last over 250 easy with proper maint and preventative.
 

02DenaliLQ4

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I've got an 02 Denali XL when i bought it. she had 106,*** MILES on her.as of this morning it now has 241,147 MILES and only thing I've done is plugs wires oil and finally a new Optima yellow top and tires of course and it is AWD! God i love the 6.0 beast of a engine!
 
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clandr1

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For those of you north of 150k who haven't had transmission problems, what sort of tranny service have you performed?

I'm at 117k myself, just did the water pump for the first time four days ago. I had the tranny serviced at 55k, but am going to do a simple drain/refill soon as I've been told to stay away from flushes.

Just wondering if there's anything else I can/should do to my tranny to prolong it's life.
 

ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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mines an 2000 thru 2006 model ls and it started nickel and diming me to death at 120 k
shocks,water pump, fuel pump, window regulators and motors all 4 drivers mirror, evap system, rear main seal, valve cover seals oil pan gasket
 

oldchev

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I've had my 04 Yukon Denali for over 4 years and picked it up at 112K miles. Now has 187K. I have replaced 3 forward a/c temp actuators (1 easy,2 inside dash), 1 rear actuator, steering column intermediate shaft (clunk when turning), wiper control relay, water pump at 157K, rear air shocks, radiator just recently (small leak), alternator this year, and of course belts, hoses thermostat, brakes, etc. and oh yeah, some radio lights and steering wheel control lights also. Now looks like the fuel pump is wavering. It just left me cold today.
If you can do some or most of the work yourself they are awesome vehicles. If not, the repair bills will throttle you.
 

rockola1971

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Typically all C/K chassis 4L60E trannys meet their demise around 125K. This number usually goes down when the vehicle is used for towing. This is just a general guide on the mileage for the tranny, some last longer, some die way lower (I suspect thats the driver driving it like a racecar). The Fuel pump meets its demise typically around 115-125k. There have been many that made it well over 125k and some that died well under 100K. My best advice is do NOT get in the habit of running the tank to fumes often. The fuel pump module is located in the tank in a trapped sump area meant to keep the fuel pump continuously covered in fuel. The pump is cooled by the fuel absorbing heat from it. Heat speeds the demise of anything electrical. If at all possible strive to keep tank atleast roughly 1/4 full at all times. This is just a general guideline, of course you would probably be alright at 1/8 tank...but why chance it if you dont have to.
 

Searay45db

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Ok, I have read all of the above. Rockola gives a little bit better empirical data, but let me give you a little bit more data to put it into perspective, because as everyone said, if the person beats the crap out of the vehicle, your gonna break stuff.

These vehicles are pickup trucks with a different body on it. My friends who are contracts run fleets of these. They beat the crap out of them, run them to 350k, see how much is left on the tranny, 99% run till 450 before they dump them Look e-bay, you will see these with 500k. The transmission is the weak link. The 4l60E is for all purposes not repairable. Every single part has been upgraded significantly. My tranny guy see's these usually around 115k, mine went on my 2000 5.3 at 180, my 2004 Subby is at 210 on the original. No explanation. Built on Wednesday. Obviously don't go to AAMCO for tranny work, shop it. I had a walk out of the door price for $1900 for total rebuild, 3 year 50k warranty. I upgraded it the 4L65E, which the Denali's have, just use's Planetary gear which is heavier. When my tranny was taken apart on the 5.3, I tow a lot. There was zero wear because of towing, tranny guy said towing doesn't make a difference. Tranny's are made to tow 100% of the time. It's luck of the draw. I flushed my tranny at 30k, asked him if it made a differnce, he said it's a 4L60E, who knows.

The 5.3 has been around for a long time, and its pretty bullet proof. One thing about this truck is it is was to work on yourself. There is a Youtube for everything. If you take care of the truck, it will take care of you. Too many people unload these at 125k because it nickel and dimes them. Then they go and buy a new one for lot more and it costs them more. Then people like me buy them cheap, $750 and I am good for another 200k, as I use upgraded parts.

If you are in the north, these are notorious for cancer in the front of the rear wheel well. Fix it early. Don't bondo it. They make the replacement panel.

Like many, I am a fan of the 200-2006 vintage. Best years they made these, plus they have steel bumpers so you don't scratch your bumper when you run over a prius.

Hope that helps..
 

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