I didn’t use any fasteners on mine. I’m running a 10” JL sub and it hits hard with zero rattles.Did not screw it down once the seats went it I could not move it might pull it later if it rattles and put foam around all the metal contact points.
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I didn’t use any fasteners on mine. I’m running a 10” JL sub and it hits hard with zero rattles.Did not screw it down once the seats went it I could not move it might pull it later if it rattles and put foam around all the metal contact points.
Any chance you have a contact for Rodneysboxes?Yesterday I installed a Rodney box in my 2011 Yukon w/ Bose Audio and a new Boss Head Unit. I did run into a snag that I am hoping someone else has overcome...
Installed:
>Boss Head Unit
>RP5-GM31 Wiring Interface
>12" Alpine Sub w/ Sound Ordinance Amp (sub amp only)
My intention is to keep all the speakers running on the factory Bose Amp. The speakers all played when I did the test fit and systems check before re-assembling the console and dashboard, however, when I buttoned everything up and reconnected the new amp for the sub I lost all my speaker sound.
Based on what I read on the Chevrolet Forum, it sounds like the amp went into limp mode or a state of confusion because I disconnected the factory Bose sub. Here's the question: should I connect the + / - wires from the Bose sub to complete the circuit in hope that the complete circuit will satisfy the Bose amp and it will continue to provide sound to the speakers? Or should I add a type of resistor in the + / - amp wires and complete the circuit that way?
Thank you in advance!
I talked to him on eBay back in february. He said he was fighting some "serious health issues and havent been able to build any boxes"His ebay account has gone dark. Not a single box for sale under Rodneysboxes any longer. I hope dude is alright. I guess I took too long to pull the trigger.
I talked to him on eBay back in february. He said he was fighting some "serious health issues and havent been able to build any boxes"
They’re kind of complicated; you would need a pattern. Also, it would have to be laying around because once its installed a person would have to remove the front seats and console to measure it and make patterns. JL Audio still makes one for the GM SUV’s. You can look at one at this link. Or you could buy one, measure it, and return it. Because JL’s version is $900.Did not screw it down once the seats went it I could not move it might pull it later if it rattles and put foam around all the metal contact points.
I figured it was a long shot since they’ve been out of production for a while. I just can’t bring myself to pull the trigger on a stealth box lolThey’re kind of complicated; you would need a pattern. Also, it would have to be laying around because once its installed a person would have to remove the front seats and console to measure it and make patterns. JL Audio still makes one for the GM SUV’s. You can look at one at this link. Or you could buy one, measure it, and return it. Because JL’s version is $900.
That’s why I said you could buy a JL audio Stealth Box, open the box stealth-like (get it?) so it can be re-sealed and take measurements/ make patterns and then re-insert the Stealthy Box into the cardboard box making sure to be extra stealthy to make it look unopened. Or tell them you opened it and changed your mind but they’ll probably charge you extra. You’ll have to pay return shipping but its a lot better than spending $900. Plus you’ll have patterns you can use to make some and sell them.I figured it was a long shot since they’ve been out of production for a while. I just can’t bring myself to pull the trigger on a stealth box lol