Air conditioner questions

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Stresst

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I have had my 2000 Escalade for 6-8 years and never had any issues with my a/c until the end of last summer. It suddenly was blowing hot air so I put a small can in and it was good for remainder of the year. Last week we had a few warm days and noticed my compressor wasnt comming on. So I bought a 2 large can kit with the hose. First can in, nothing. Toward the end of the second can the compressor came on and it was now blowing 68 degrees down from the 82 when I started. So I put the a small can in and it dropped down to 60, great. Rite? Nope. 3 days later and its empty again.

As I was putting in the last can, it had a dye in it and it was comming out of the low side valve. So I purchased a new hose off ebay for 89 bucks. Im hoping that was the only leak.

Anything else I should change or check before I put the new hose on and charge the system again?? Anything to make these systems blow cooler then normal?
 
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I have had my 2000 Escalade for 6-8 years and never had any issues with my a/c until the end of last summer. It suddenly was blowing hot air so I put a small can in and it was good for remainder of the year. Last week we had a few warm days and noticed my compressor wasnt comming on. So I bought a 2 large can kit with the hose. First can in, nothing. Toward the end of the second can the compressor came on and it was now blowing 68 degrees down from the 82 when I started. So I put the a small can in and it dropped down to 60, great. Rite? Nope. 3 days later and its empty again.

As I was putting in the last can, it had a dye in it and it was comming out of the low side valve. So I purchased a new hose off ebay for 89 bucks. Im hoping that was the only leak.

Anything else I should change or check before I put the new hose on and charge the system again?? Anything to make these systems blow cooler then normal?


just make sure you vacuum the system out.... if you really want to put the effort into it of doing it right you should also change the orfice tube pretty cheap part and i dont really know if this is true or not but i have heard the accumulator/dryer can cause up to a 20 degree differance.... I usually change my dryer and orfice tube every summer vacuum out the system and give it a good charge
 

SunlitComet

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If it was the valve you should have been able to replace the valve itself. do both. The valves are replaceable on our truck I thought.
 

FilthyHOE

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It might be worth it to go to a "Good" AC shop after the hose is replaced.

They will leak check it with Nitrogen and Vaccum it before adding the charge


After the system is open its the only way to remove the Moisture you will introduce when you change the Line.

---------- Post added at 08:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:13 AM ----------

the valve are replaceable

I thought so too but wasn't sure...


I am a new owner but I am an AC Tech
 
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smurphy80

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Just as an FYI to this, I just had my '02 yukon in the shop for A/C repair last week. Turned out my hi side valve was shot. Was replaced and refilled, ran me right at $148 for the whole service, the majority being the cost of the refrigerant.
 

07Burb

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I had the same thing happen to me in my 99 Denali that we had for a while. It resulted in having to have the compressor replaced and system recharged due to where the leak was located at. I really miss that ride... :(
 
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Stresst

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just make sure you vacuum the system out.... if you really want to put the effort into it of doing it right you should also change the orfice tube pretty cheap part and i dont really know if this is true or not but i have heard the accumulator/dryer can cause up to a 20 degree differance.... I usually change my dryer and orfice tube every summer vacuum out the system and give it a good charge


What does changing the orfice tube do? More like what's its function? As far as changing the accumulator if I knew it gave me an extra 5 degrees I would do it. There on ebay for 20-40 bucks.
 

SunlitComet

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OPERATION
The orifice tube provides a restriction to the high-pressure liquid refrigerant in the liquid line, metering the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator as a low-pressure liquid. The expansion tube and orifice are protected from contamination by filter screens on both inlet and outlet sides. The tube is serviced only as a replacement assembly.

When the engine is turned "OFF" with the air conditioning operating, the refrigerant in the system will flow from the high-pressure side of the expansion tube (orifice) to the low-pressure side until the pressure is equalized. This may be detected as a faint sound of liquid flowing (hissing) for 30 to 60 seconds and is a normal condition.

When system diagnostics indicate a restricted expansion tube, it may not be necessary to replace it. Metal chips, flakes, or slivers found on the screen may be removed with compressed air. The expansion tube may be reused if:



  • The plastic frame is not broken.
  • The expansion tube is not damaged or plugged.
  • The screen material is not torn.
  • The screen is not plugged with fine gritty material.


---------- Post added at 01:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:42 PM ----------

OPERATION
The sealed accumulator assembly connects to the evaporator outlet pipe. It functions as a liquid/vapor separator that receives refrigerant vapor, some liquid refrigerant and refrigerant oil from the evaporator. It only allows refrigerant vapor and oil to flow to the compressor.

At the bottom of the accumulator is desiccant that acts as a drying agent for moisture that may have entered the system. An oil bleed hole is also located near the bottom of the accumulator outlet pipe to provide an oil return path to the compressor.

A low-side pressure service fitting is located on the accumulator. A similar service fitting is provided for mounting the cycling pressure switch. It is not necessary to discharge the system to replace the switch. The accumulator is serviced only as a replacement assembly.

---------- Post added at 01:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:43 PM ----------

You replace the orifice because overtime it can get a little cloggy reduceing efficiency and puts more stress on the compressor. The accumulator has a drier in it that eats up moisture. It is standard practice to replace it if you have to open your system so that the desiccant has the capacity to remove any moisture introduced into the system when servicing.
 
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Stresst

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And changing these two parts are beneficial??
 

SunlitComet

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After many years of use it might yield some benefit for the orifice being clean and new. The old desiccant in the accumulator may or may not handle more moisture introduce into the system when opened up.
 

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Do you have any pics of how the mirror appears within your daylight? This mod could possibly be pretty awesome on many cars and vans assuming it appears alright all through the morning and when not lit up.
 

07Burb

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:think:
 

SunlitComet

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Do you have any pics of how the mirror appears within your daylight? This mod could possibly be pretty awesome on many cars and vans assuming it appears alright all through the morning and when not lit up.

Talk about a mis-post
Where the F*** did that come from?
 

07Burb

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That bot didn't even post anything that had to do with the thread either :shrug:
 

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