Adjustable rear control arms....Help

[bigb805]

So I have a pile of suspension components building on the side of my bed to soon be installed on the hoe. I have slowly bought the parts to finish rebuilding my front end and make the tahoe ready for my future adventures. I have all the parts to do the ford key swap with the bilstein 5100's including new moog problem solver lower a arms and Cognito uppers. I re did the rest of the front end when i first got the truck( CV'S, tie rods, pitman arm &bracket, idler arm & bracket, sway bar links, wheel hubs).I already purchased the adjustable panhard bar from spohn Now all i have left is the rear control arms and some new sway bar bushing LOL. I do intend to do a 4.5 suspension lift and up size tires to 35's and that's where my question really comes in. When and why would you use an adjustable rear arm over a non adjustable and would what you say is better for how i'm building the hoe up. Sorry for being so long winded but sometimes I just run these darn questions through my head so many times I gotta ask somebody!!! I don't mind saving up a little longer to get the parts I truly want but in this case i'm not educated enough in the benefit of the adjustable arms to make an intelligent decision.

 

[richs1]

I have no clue on the adjustable control arms. It would seem to me that unless you are lifting it to the point that you have a extreme angle on the driveshaft, they wouldn’t be needed. I assume(again) that the adjustable arms will change the angel of the rear end. I would like to know where you are getting a 4.5 inch suspension lift. I currently have aftermarket keys, but would rather have a true suspension lift to get geometry back to stock location.

 

[06JET]

The rear end will get out of center to the right and move to the front the higher you go. So it depends on your lift. 4.5" is not an issue for most people but you may want it perfect so you can use them to make it so. You have to be careful about moving the rear end back to center it in the fender well because it pulls the drive shaft out of the trans. It can take a little but don't over do it. Again, 4.5" is nothing to worry about.

 

[Rocket Man]

The adjustable control arms correct front to rear wheel centering in the fenders (more critical on lowered rigs with big wheels) as well as correct the pinion angle. Adjustable panhard bar corrects right to left centering, also more critical on lowered rigs. As mentioned, our rear suspension moves out of center when raised or lowered much. When lifted, the tires gain more clearance from the rear fenders so its less critical however if you lower the rear a lot and you’re running big wheels or tires you might get rubbing, and the visual thing is more pronounced as well since the fenders are closer so it looks more noticeable.

 

[M1Gunner]

...not to mention, I pretty positive that a 4.5in lift will not be able to clear 35’s.

 

[bigb805]

Thanks for all the replies everyone I think I was mostly confused because I had seen they were mostly being used in a lowered situation and was wondering why they wouldn't be as necessary in a lifted scenario but now it makes sense! As far as fitting 35's on a 4.5in lift I have seen it done multiple times depending on the tire/wheel combo. I do intend to do small amount of trimming on the inner fender and probably some plastic but that's no biggie.
Here's a good video of a hoe out at oceano dunes with a very similar set up to what im shooting for and as you can see it works quite well!

 

[M1Gunner]

Well I was runnin 35 12.50 with no offset and the left front tire still rubbed full lock to the left. That was with a 6in Rough country lift and no trim. But if you’re cool with a ton of trimming and cranking the keys to the max you may clear.