AC PROBLEMS

[BeenChevy]

Amen Reid. Troubleshooting some of the later tech is certainly more challenging to an extent. Especially since the symptoms are vague. Anybody care to place bets on what the problem is while kwOH is on his fools errand?

 

[kwOH]

Amen Reid. Troubleshooting some of the later tech is certainly more challenging to an extent. Especially since the symptoms are vague. Anybody care to place bets on what the problem is while kwOH is on his fools errand?

U guys are getting out of hand here, how helpful is it when someone post a problem to start getting negative. I just posted before him and said its going to the shop where they have the tools and the knowledge and where I don't have to mess with it, what more do you want, of course ill try anything I can that may be minor before I give the shop my money any day, no sense in taking it to the shop and having all that shit checked if its just an actuator or something like that.


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[Reidracer]

U guys are getting out of hand here, how helpful is it when someone post a problem to start getting negative. I just posted before him and said its going to the shop where they have the tools and the knowledge and where I don't have to mess with it, what more do you want, of course ill try anything I can that may be minor before I give the shop my money any day, no sense in taking it to the shop and having all that shit checked if its just an actuator or something like that.


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I provided a method to check the condition of the refrigeration aspect of your AC system without any investment other than a few minutes of time... sorry it didn't make you all warm and fuzzy. I guess the only repair recommendations you guys want are for Playing Parts Store Pin the Tail on the Donkey; a game I won't play as it's usually the most expensive way to diagnose. But ya'll can play all you want, the guys at Advance Auto Parts need to eat too.

 

[kwOH]

I provided a method to check the condition of the refrigeration aspect of your AC system without any investment other than a few minutes of time... sorry it didn't make you all warm and fuzzy. I guess the only repair recommendations you guys want are for Playing Parts Store Pin the Tail on the Donkey; a game I won't play as it's usually the most expensive way to diagnose. But ya'll can play all you want, the guys at Advance Auto Parts need to eat too.

Ill probably order from Amazon. SMH


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[kwOH]

I also did what you @Reidracer said and checked the lines, one hot and one cold, front and rear, correct me if I'm wrong but couldn't that be the case and it still be low or need an orifice or have a small leak? Maybe perhaps its flowing but not flowing as efficient as it should be? And would that require a professional and/ or professional tools which I said that I was going to go to?


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[Reidracer]

I also did what you @Reidracer said and checked the lines, one hot and one cold, front and rear, correct me if I'm wrong but couldn't that be the case and it still be low or need an orifice or have a small leak? Maybe perhaps its flowing but not flowing as efficient as it should be? And would that require a professional and/ or professional tools which I said that I was going to go to?


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Not really... If you are low on refrigerant the system will not chill. At least not to the degree describe. Orifice is a restriction to drop high pressure to low to make the refrigerant cold. The only way an orifice will fail is to clog which allows no refrigerant to flow so you have no cooling. IIRC the rear AC has a TXV (expansion valve), not an orifice but your issue is with the front not the rear. 134a Systems don't seem prone to small leaks like the old R12 systems, and seem to not refrigerate at all when low. This is because the low side pressure is higher with 134a so the temp is higher as well. In the old R12 systems the evap temps were often around 35 degrees so the AC blew very cold compared to the output in the 60 degree range we see today. You are getting a 35 degree drop on a 95 degree day, cool but not cold... lose a bit of efficiency and the output could be 70 degrees, sorta cool but warm enough to get you looking at it.

One other thing to check/consider. Is the system blowing hard in front of does it feel restricted? Best way to tell is to run the defrost as the air should feel like a jet blowing out. If it's restricted, do you have a cabin air filter? If not see if you can get a peek at the fan side of the Evaporator, sometimes they get coated with dirt/oil and are clogged. A hint for this is after running the system look at the refrigerant inlet side of the evaporator, after the connection. Clogged evaps will ice up.

 

[bigblackdog]

So I went out and jumped in the nnbs yukon today, 95 degrees out, and the air starts actin up on me all of a sudden, its blowing warm air from the front vents and a little cooler thru the rear, tried to recharge it and tue gauge says its full. Suggestion on what to check next??


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There are a few easy checks, someone mentioned ensuring the compressor is spinning and clutch is engaged. Place your hand on the drier (the cylinder thing in the ac line) and it should be cold to the touch, like 36-40F. You have not measured the high side pressure or checked your fan clutch. If the fan has quit hauling air through the condenser effectively, the ac system will "overheat". Put another way it is not getting rid of heat and making the ac system ineffective. The mode and temp actuators you mentioned get electrically corrupt and send an erratic signal to the controller which will default to heat, but full blistering heat. Changing them is the only recourse. There are 5 actuators, mode and temp for driver and passenger as you know, but the 5th is the recirc or "max ac" door actuator.
I would suggest if you haven't ever or in the last 3 to 5 years put a fan clutch on the truck, do so. In hot weather it is quite clearly audible on acceleration from a stop, a roaring from under the hood which will cut out at about 2500 rpm when moving.
I hope this helps

 

[ACM]

There are a few easy checks, someone mentioned ensuring the compressor is spinning and clutch is engaged. Place your hand on the drier (the cylinder thing in the ac line) and it should be cold to the touch, like 36-40F. You have not measured the high side pressure or checked your fan clutch. If the fan has quit hauling air through the condenser effectively, the ac system will "overheat". Put another way it is not getting rid of heat and making the ac system ineffective. The mode and temp actuators you mentioned get electrically corrupt and send an erratic signal to the controller which will default to heat, but full blistering heat. Changing them is the only recourse. There are 5 actuators, mode and temp for driver and passenger as you know, but the 5th is the recirc or "max ac" door actuator.
I would suggest if you haven't ever or in the last 3 to 5 years put a fan clutch on the truck, do so. In hot weather it is quite clearly audible on acceleration from a stop, a roaring from under the hood which will cut out at about 2500 rpm when moving.
I hope this helps

Hey bigblackdog, thanks for the pointers. I'm having a similar problem on an 07 LTZ that's just come into my care - climate control system is blowing hot air even when set to recirculating or A/C. Also, if you try to press the A/C button, it will stay illuminated shortly before shutting itself off. Are the clutch and actuators the likely culprits?

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[Blk11yukon]

I am also having A/C issues as well. My issue is that my a/c clutch is not engaging unless it is bypassed either by the a/c fuse or a/c relay. I'm working on a 2011 yukon. What I'm trying to find is a good a/c wiring diagram from engine bay to a/c control if anyone can help with that info please.