And the fun begins....
About20's FI build (slow build)
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about20ninj45
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Power steering pump pulley is a PIA. Took me several hours to get it off. Neighbor came over last night during the process. Lots of liqour and didn't fall asleep until 5 am.
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about20ninj45
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Mini update. Didn't want to use the stock Tb so I switched to the ls7 92 mm tb. Since it's designed for 07+ vehicles, I had to get an xlink to plug into the stock wiring and attach to the Tb so I could control it.
This method isn't plug and play, you actually have to modify the dbw electronic Tb tables in the pcm.
I also ordered the wrong TB spacer but didn't realize it until after the Amazon 30 day window. That's the bad side to letting parts sit in the box untill your ready to use them
The xlink is also in the pic on the table.
This method isn't plug and play, you actually have to modify the dbw electronic Tb tables in the pcm.
I also ordered the wrong TB spacer but didn't realize it until after the Amazon 30 day window. That's the bad side to letting parts sit in the box untill your ready to use them
The xlink is also in the pic on the table.
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Installing the accessories bracket was pretty straightforward... So I thought. I had issues with the power steering pump and I actually got the tool kit for the ps remover stuck.
My plan was to just pull it off and install the electric ps pump from a Volvo. Once I removed the pump I. Prices there was tons of hydraulic lines that tied into the hydro post and I couldn't get access to them without removing other things, so I said to hell with it and just put the stock one back on. I also somehow managed to bend the pulley for the ps pump and it was out of alignment.
I was successful in straightening it out, put only time will tell or if I start throwing belts.
My plan was to just pull it off and install the electric ps pump from a Volvo. Once I removed the pump I. Prices there was tons of hydraulic lines that tied into the hydro post and I couldn't get access to them without removing other things, so I said to hell with it and just put the stock one back on. I also somehow managed to bend the pulley for the ps pump and it was out of alignment.
I was successful in straightening it out, put only time will tell or if I start throwing belts.
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After installing the ps pump on the bracket, I thought I was in the home stretch, but project snowball reared its ugly head. For starters the accessories bracket moved the alternator to close to my abs pump and the bolts wouldn't line up because of the clearance.
So I had to reach out to the manufacturer of the bracket and explain my issue. I said he would come up with a fix and should have something for me within a few days. Waiting was like watching paint dry and that timeframe ended up being close to 2 weeks, not to mention poor communication/busy schedule.
So I had to reach out to the manufacturer of the bracket and explain my issue. I said he would come up with a fix and should have something for me within a few days. Waiting was like watching paint dry and that timeframe ended up being close to 2 weeks, not to mention poor communication/busy schedule.
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After installing the new bracket , you reuse your existing older pulley and install a smaller idler supplied with the kit as well. Ran into another problem there. The damn holes were drilled to close for both idlers, so with the belt on, it runs against itself... Ffffffffffffffcccc
The remedy to that was to buy a smaller pulley idler since the fbody idler was to big. There's two sizes when it comes to the fbody idler 72 mm and a 65, but they don't tell you that. They have the same part numbers, so you would have to measure them to actually tell.
Edit* also forgot to mention that I had to measure for a belt. When doing so they tell you to leave the belt tensioner alone while taking measurements. I said f the, because for one, the belt will stretch and come off and two, I want as much load on the belt as possible. My measurements came out to be 107.49 inches. I used the tailors measure and multiplied by .35 to get close to the actually length including thickness, since belts are measured from the back side.
The remedy to that was to buy a smaller pulley idler since the fbody idler was to big. There's two sizes when it comes to the fbody idler 72 mm and a 65, but they don't tell you that. They have the same part numbers, so you would have to measure them to actually tell.
Edit* also forgot to mention that I had to measure for a belt. When doing so they tell you to leave the belt tensioner alone while taking measurements. I said f the, because for one, the belt will stretch and come off and two, I want as much load on the belt as possible. My measurements came out to be 107.49 inches. I used the tailors measure and multiplied by .35 to get close to the actually length including thickness, since belts are measured from the back side.
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The zr1 lid comes with a 3 bar map sensor. In order to use the sensor, you have to repin the map sensor harness. Pins b and a need to be swapped. Since I'm ditching the maf, the tan and black wires need to be removed from the maf sensor (5pin) harness and ran to the IAT sensor in the lid. It didn't matter how you wire them.
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I forgot to take pics of the head adapters fit the blower install, but they go on her side down. It's a PIA to align them so that the bolts go in. The bolts go thru the supercharger base and into the heads.
You will also notice that there is a gasket that goes under the lid before you bolt it on. ( Orange )
You will also notice that there is a gasket that goes under the lid before you bolt it on. ( Orange )
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After this I mounted the lid, which wasn't too hard. The EVAP live was in the way so I cut it.. more on that later.
After the lid was bolted on, I had to install the injectors and fuel rail. The factory line will need to be stretched to fit the fuel rail. There's also a bracket you can remove from the rear of the driver's side head, so you can have more line to stretch.
You can see the iat wires on the driver's side. In order for the blower to sit flush, you have to bend down the coolant steam tubes on the front valley cover. These lines usually go through ports on the stock Tb and will need to be rerouted
After the lid was bolted on, I had to install the injectors and fuel rail. The factory line will need to be stretched to fit the fuel rail. There's also a bracket you can remove from the rear of the driver's side head, so you can have more line to stretch.
You can see the iat wires on the driver's side. In order for the blower to sit flush, you have to bend down the coolant steam tubes on the front valley cover. These lines usually go through ports on the stock Tb and will need to be rerouted
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I love this build. More boost!
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about20ninj45
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Can't install the heat exchanger until I can find a reservoir for the cooling brick in the lid. I need something like this but seems as though Magnuson stopped selling them.
So I will be running without cooling it for the time being.. seeing as how ambient temps are roughly 17*, it shouldn't cause that much of an issue if I'm taking it slow
So I will be running without cooling it for the time being.. seeing as how ambient temps are roughly 17*, it shouldn't cause that much of an issue if I'm taking it slow
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To install the LSA/ls9 injectors, you need wiring adapters that plug into the harness. You need to go from a Delphi plug to an ev6 plug, which most gm vehicles come with as long as you (07+)
Got them on eBay for pretty cheap.
They are plug and play.
Got them on eBay for pretty cheap.
They are plug and play.
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Installed injectors and fuel rail, bolted the lid and rail down and was anxious to fire it up. Installed the correct serpentine belt (after 6 trips to the parts store because they kept giving me the wrong one) I had to extend the EVAP line and solenoid, which plugged right into one of the blower ports without issue. All other vacuum ports need to be plugged if not in use, otherwise , vacuum leaks..= no bueno.
Borrowed this pic with the arrows from LS1 tech to illustrate the ports
Borrowed this pic with the arrows from LS1 tech to illustrate the ports
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about20ninj45
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You and your dang popcorn lol
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about20ninj45
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Thanks man. Appreciate it
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So I did a once over and said, f it. I'm gonna start it. Anything not hooked up, I'll find out as soon as the engine turns over lol.
Project snowball didn't seem to act right when attempting to fire up.
Inside view.
Afterwards I founds a puddle of gas underneath the vehicle, damn injectors weren't seated all the way and fuel was leaking all over. I corrected that and made sure all the other injectors were seated. I also wanted to make sure that there wasn't any fuel in the cylinders, and risk hydrolock. Decided to just drink a beer and contemplate on my next step.
Project snowball didn't seem to act right when attempting to fire up.
Inside view.
Afterwards I founds a puddle of gas underneath the vehicle, damn injectors weren't seated all the way and fuel was leaking all over. I corrected that and made sure all the other injectors were seated. I also wanted to make sure that there wasn't any fuel in the cylinders, and risk hydrolock. Decided to just drink a beer and contemplate on my next step.
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about20ninj45
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Shortly afterwards said "YOLO" and fired it up again.. well technically 3 days later but still, you get my drift
Didn't take enough pictures, so I'll have to grab more. Noticed a rattle sound coming from the snout, and it's because the coupler isn't centered on the shaft correctly, so I'll have to pull that and install a different one again. But I may just leave it in there for now untill I get the rest of the details ironed out.
Didn't take enough pictures, so I'll have to grab more. Noticed a rattle sound coming from the snout, and it's because the coupler isn't centered on the shaft correctly, so I'll have to pull that and install a different one again. But I may just leave it in there for now untill I get the rest of the details ironed out.
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