6.2 ls3 GM performance crate engine

[mikez71]

eBay & Marketplace can help!

Yup, and AXN axle is in the 'plans'... and a new front diff..
But I'm getting lazier everyday so who knows..

trying to convince myself to do my steering bushing today..
Let's see.. 7 nuts, a couple bolts, one oetiker clamp? .. I think I can, I think I can...

 

[Marky Dissod]

Was gonna say, I think I need a turbodiesel to overcome my 3.08 rearend!

Don't get me wrong. The off-idle strength of a turbodiesel is a very tempting siren song ...
but if you upgrade from 3.08 to 3.73 or 4.10, and have the shift table tuned to suit your taste,
I don't think you'd be disappointed. Same goes for the rest of you.

 

[mikez71]

Stock tires, I'm sure I'll be ecstatic with the 3.46!
One day my tahoe will drive like all the other tahoes...

Part of me thinks they made the Z71 package just to use up all their leftover 3.08 gears..

 

[Marky Dissod]

Stock tires, I'm sure I'll be ecstatic with 3.42!
One day my tahoe will drive like all the other tahoes ...

Part of me thinks they made the Z71 package just to use up all their leftover 3.08s ...

Don't undersell yself - 3.73 and a good tune, you might not even want a 6.0L / 6.2L.
If it tows / hauls heavy, or plays hard, you'll prefer 4.10 for your 5.3L though.

 

[mikez71]

Do groceries count for a heavy haul?

Thanks for correcting the gear ratio for me!

 

[Marky Dissod]

I can only do so much with my keyboard.
If you find a GMT900 with 3.42 (OE gear for suvs with a tow pack whose RPO escapes me) and take it for a test drive,
you'll see and feel why I suggest 3.73 or 4.10
(which GM gave OE to some pickup trucks with 6L80 / 6L90 and whatever tow pack option succeeded V4P).

In my GMT821 (Tahoe Z71), I itch very badly for a 6.0L and 4.10 with my 4L60E.

 

[mikez71]

I might like 3.73's.. But I don't think I'm gonna (make my lady) spend for it.
Plus, she's gotta save up for that 10L80 and a motor once there's problems with either!

Another reason, I'm lazy. Swapping an axle and front diff is enough for me..

I don't doubt for a minute what you're saying..
But I'm hoping my expectations are low enough... Truck only has to be tolerable and reliable..
Hopefully I won't drive anything better to know what I'm missing!

 

[Marky Dissod]

I might like 3.73, but I don't think I'm gonna (make my lady) spend for it.
Plus, she's gotta save up for that 10L80 and a motor once there's problems with either!

Another reason, I'm lazy. Swapping an axle and front diff is enough for me.

3.73 will always be SO MUCH CHEAPER than a 10L80 rebuild OR a replacement direct injection V8, nevermind both.
especially if you find a 3.73 front diff to swap in.

I don't doubt for a minute what you're saying.
But I'm hoping my expectations are low enough ... Truck only has to be tolerable and reliable.
Hopefully I won't drive anything better to know what I'm missing!

If I fail to convince you, maybe I helped someone else out ...

 

[mikez71]

3.73 will always be SO MUCH CHEAPER than a 10L80 rebuild OR a replacement direct injection V8, nevermind both.
especially if you find a 3.73 front diff to swap in.

True, but if (when?) the trans goes out, I'll still have to address it...
And, I'm thinking a 10l80 w/3.42 might perform better than a 6l80 w/3.73? (while costing more as well)

When it breaks, I may just get the 6l80 rebuilt.. Just depends if I actually have $$$ at the time..
I hear you, it's not that I've ruled out the 3.73, but the 3.42 will be cheaper to get going with.

 

[j91z28d1]

a 408ci stroker short block can be had for under 6k these days. that's about what guys are paying for afm delete kits installed these days.

truck cam and Cathedral heads and I bet it would be a torque monster

 

[Marky Dissod]

... a 10L80 w/3.42 might perform better than a 6L80 w/3.73? (while costing more as well)

May I show you something?

10L80: ... 4.69 ... 2.99 ... 2.15 ... 1.77 ... 1.52 ... 1.28 ... 1.000 ... 0.85 ... 0.69 ... 0.64 (7.32 Spread)
6L80E: . . . . 4.03 . . . . 2.36 . . . . . . . . . 1.53 . . . . 1.15 . . . . . . . 0.85 . . . . . 0.67 (6.01 Spread)

Awfully imprecise, yet it still manages to visually represent the improvement from the 6L80 to the 10L80.
10L80 not only has more gears than the 6L80, most of those additional gears are more assertive.
Look at it long enough, you'll see: it'd literally be COUNTERproductive to give the 10L80 any more axle gear.

3.23 is the GM OE axle gear for every suv with 10L80. OK, watch this:
10L80 x 3.23 axle: ... 15.15 ... 9.66 ... 6.95 ... 5.72 ... 4.91 ... 4.13 ... 3.231 ... 2.75 ... 2.23 ... 2.07 (7.32 Spread)
6L80E x 3.42 axle: . . . . 13.78 . . . 8.07 . . . . . . . 5.23 . . . . . . . 3.93 . . . . . 2.91 . . . . 2.29 (6.01 Spread)
6L80E x 3.08 axle: . . . . . 12.41 . . .. 7.27 . . . . . . . . . . 4.71 . . . . 3.54 . . . . . . 2.62 . . . . . . . 2.06 (6.01 Spread)

OK, so, if highway MpG is more important to you / her, then go with 3.42 with the 6L80E.
But if metro / urban stop'n'go, or towing / hauling is more important, seriously consider 3.73 with 6L80E.

Bet his wife'd NEVER let him have a 6.7L.

 

[mikez71]

Added a couple combos...
10L80 I used 4.70, 2.99, 2.15, 1.80 , 1.52, 1.28, 1, .85, .69, .64

10L80 x 3.08 axle: .... 14.48 ... 9.21 .... 6.62 .... 5.54 ... 4.68 ... 3.94 ... 3.08 ... 2.62 ......... 2.13 . 1.98 <------------------------------?
10L80 x 3.23 axle: .. 15.15 ... 9.66 ... 6.95 .... 5.72 ... 4.91 ... 4.13 ... 3.23 ... 2.75 ... 2.23 .. 2.07 (7.32 Spread)
10L80 x 3.42 axle: ..16.07 .. 10.23 ... 7.35 ... 6.16 ... 5.20 ... 4.38 ... 3.42 ... 2.91 ... 2.36 . 2.19 <------------------------------?

6l80 I used 4.027, 2.364, 1.532, 1.152, .852, .667

6L80E x 3.08 axle: . . . . . 12.41 . . . .. 7.27 . . . . . . . . 4.71 . . . . . 3.54 . . . . . . 2.62 . . . . . . 2.06 (6.01 Spread)
6L80E x 3.42 axle: . . . . 13.78 . . . 8.08 . . . . . . . . 5.24 . . . . . 3.93 . . . . . .. 2.91 . . . 2.28 (6.01 Spread)
6L80E x 3.73 axle: .... 15.02 . . . 8.82 . . . . . .. 5.71 . . . . . . . 4.30 . . . 3.18 . . . . . 2.49 <-----------------------------?

Looking at that I might as well stay 3.08 if going 10L80.
But it doesn't look like a 10L80 with 3.42 would be particularly bad..

But yea, 3.73 definately spaces out nicely...

 

[j91z28d1]

do they have a 10 speed swap dialed in yet for these trucks? do you need a stand along controller or a segment swap in hp do it?

 

[mikez71]

Home - Powertrain Swap Solutions

www.powertrainswapsolutions.com

Pretty sure they are including a standard GM tcm that you plugin..
Probably this.. https://www.hptuners.com/product/gm-t93-tcm-service-global-b/

 

[j91z28d1]

Home - Powertrain Swap Solutions

www.powertrainswapsolutions.com

Pretty sure they are including a standard GM tcm that you plugin..
Probably this.. https://www.hptuners.com/product/gm-t93-tcm-service-global-b/

supposedly there's a guy that makes a sub harness to go between your ecm and whatever tcm you need to run for the 10. Hopefully there's a tcm that does it besides the global B that can control it. that adds a lot of cost.

sadly I see hints that the gm 10 isn't very good in stock form long term. so you'll have added cost of beefing up what's needed to make it live longer than they do in the stock trucks to factory in. you could easily have $10k in this swap by the time you're done.

if it was mine I'd leave all that alone and do the fun part of building a motor first. more enjoyable to me than working on drivetrains, especially if you don't have lift access and some friends to help. if you still don't have the power you need, then go for it.

 

[mikez71]

I could be completely wrong about that tcm, but I thought it was a stock GM unit and being that's the one shown for 10speeds..

That's too bad about the durability of the 10L..

Thinking about it more, I really don't need the performance and added cost/hassle of it as well...

Axle swap and I can decide if the ratio will be adequte while I keep it in 2wd for awhile! Cheap and easy first!

 

[Geotrash]

Tacking on a few more thoughts about VVT (this subject is like the oil brand and filter debates from the bobistheoilguy forum, on the LS1tech forum pages), but the facts are these: VVT is worth 10 lb-ft more at 400 fewer rpm with the cam advanced and 18 additional horsepower at 300 rpm higher in the powerband with the cam retarded. For a stock cam.

In my cam research for my 2012, I could find zero examples of any back-to-back power comparison run between aftermarket VVT and non-VVT cams with similar specs. And most aftermarket VVT cams require a phaser limiter anyway to keep the valves from starting territorial disputes with the pistons.

But I do know this: I own a '07 Yukon XL Denali with the stock cam and VVT enabled. I also own a 2012 Yukon XL Denali with a Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck Cam without VVT (3-bolt), and I get to drive them both back to back. Both are Blackbear tuned and there is no comparison. The 2012 with the 3-bolt cam is a beast. The throttle response and punch in the back when tapping the throttle at lower RPM, like when leaving my street, make me smile every time.

But my reasons for not keeping VVT in the 2012 were about ease of install, simplicity and durability. In my case, the trade-off was the right one for me. But that's the great thing about this country - we get to choose based on what matters most to us.

 

[Charlie207]

Most aftermarket cams don't make real power until 3k RPM

This is some of the worst & pedantic marketing **** that people inject straight into their veins...

If you need torque, your transmission will shift into the a lower gear and get you into the usable power area. No one one Earth is rooting for Team Lug-My-Engine, unless you're all about burning up your torque converter, and bottom end.

Also, I'm not seeing the stance that VVT is unreliable. It works fine, but it's easy to delete and allows for 100x the cam variety that you have with VVT-cams.

We all already have torquey engines, and "losing" a few ft./lb. below 2000rpms is impossible to detect in a 7000lb. vehicle.

 

[mikez71]

If you need torque, your transmission will shift into the a lower gear and get you into the usable power area.

Except for 1st gear

I haven't driven anything other than my 3.08 geared 5.3 beast so that's where I'm coming from

 

[91RS]

This is some of the worst & pedantic marketing **** that people inject straight into their veins...

If you need torque, your transmission will shift into the a lower gear and get you into the usable power area. No one one Earth is rooting for Team Lug-My-Engine, unless you're all about burning up your torque converter, and bottom end.

Also, I'm not seeing the stance that VVT is unreliable. It works fine, but it's easy to delete and allows for 100x the cam variety that you have with VVT-cams.

We all already have torquey engines, and "losing" a few ft./lb. below 2000rpms is impossible to detect in a 7000lb. vehicle.

What are you even talking about? Did you read what I said at all? Who wants to have the engine screaming all the time and sounding like you’re driving a Mustang in a parking lot at WOT in 1st gear to get into the power? Not me.