2018 Yukon XL SLT, rear air shock blown

[dmtml]

About 6 months ago we purchased a used 2018 Yukon XL. A couple of weeks ago, I started hearing a compressor running very frequently. Some googling led me to believe that this was a compressor that inflates the air struts/shocks(?) at the rear of the vehicle.

Last night I finally got under the vehicle, and it appears that the driver's side strut/shock airbag thing is blown.

I'm not a mechanic, but have pretty decent mechanical skills overall. This seems like overall a fairly easy thing to replace. However, all I am seeming to find is 3rd-party parts to replace, and I'm having trouble figuring out exactly which part to buy. Some comments have also led me to believe that you might lose out on some auto-leveling features or something by replacing with 3rd-party.

Does anyone have experience with replacing these, and can anyone tell me which part would be the best to purchase?

Thanks!

 

[Doubeleive]

looks like choices are pretty slim
oem replacement acdelco is 84176675 $382 (each)
arnott makes one that is "passive" and does not have ride-control those are $207 each AS3429
rockauto has either, I would go with oem myself since there really isn't another working alternative out that I know of the oem ride-control is a nice feature.

 

[dmtml]

looks like choices are pretty slim
oem replacement acdelco is 84176675 $382 (each)
arnott makes one that is "passive" and does not have ride-control those are $207 each AS3429
rockauto has either, I would go with oem myself since there really isn't another working alternative out that I know of the oem ride-control is a nice feature.

Thank you,

What I'm seeing online is $450-$500. Do you have a link for it at $382?? Sounds like going OEM to maintain ride-control is the way to go. Any thoughts on DIY-ing this vs having it done? And if having it done for me, recommendations on dealer vs independent repair shop?

Thanks again!

 

[Doubeleive]

Thank you,

What I'm seeing online is $450-$500. Do you have a link for it at $382?? Sounds like going OEM to maintain ride-control is the way to go. Any thoughts on DIY-ing this vs having it done? And if having it done for me, recommendations on dealer vs independent repair shop?

Thanks again!

More Information for GM GENUINE 84176675

as far as diy it's not hard to do at all, the rear shocks should be done with vehicle on the ground but you may want a couple jacks so you can move the axle or the body if need be for fitment sometimes you might need to move one or the other up/down an inch or 2.
I would recommend replacing both shocks at the same time unless the other one is in really good shape for some reason.
also if you look on the "vendor" part of the forum there is a 5% off code for rockauto so that at least helps a little with the tax. you copy and paste that into the "where did you hear about us" bar on rockauto at checkout

 

[dmtml]

Thank you so much, that is very helpful. Tonight I will try to take a picture of the shock just to be sure that is the problem, but I'm about 99% sure. What is the usual life of those things? Assuming they are the original parts, they are only 4-5 years old...is that the expected lifetime?

 

[Blackcar]

What kind of milage is on your vehicle?

 

[dmtml]

What kind of milage is on your vehicle?

89,000

 

[B-train]

It all depends as far as life expectancy. I have 2017 yukon with 114k and all OE air shocks. My 2007 Denali lasted to 163k OE. If you live in a really hot and dry climate they can get dry rotted from what I've seen. Or, like the Midwest, it's usually rocks, salt, etc that can degrade the material over time. It's a nice system, but I think the materials used could be better quality from the factory.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Purchase and install 2 OEM rear shocks. As stated above, it is a really easy replacement job. In the meantime, however, I recommend that you remove the fuse in the fuse box for the compressor, so that it does not burn itself out trying to fill a blown shock bladder.

Also, when removing and reinstalling the top bolt on the shocks, be careful not to disturb an electrical connector on the top of the frame near the top of the shock. Several of us have inadvertently disconnected that connector while performing this job. If it gets disconnected, simply reconnect it.

 

[dmtml]

Purchase and install 2 OEM rear shocks. As stated above, it is a really easy replacement job. In the meantime, however, I recommend that you remove the fuse in the fuse box for the compressor, so that it does not burn itself out trying to fill a blown shock bladder.

Also, when removing and reinstalling the top bolt on the shocks, be careful not to disturb an electrical connector on the top of the frame near the top of the shock. Several of us have inadvertently disconnected that connector while performing this job. If it gets disconnected, simply reconnect it.

Thank you, those are great tips! What is the electrical connector for that you are talking about disturbing?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you, those are great tips! What is the electrical connector for that you are talking about disturbing?

The electrical connector goes to the antilock brake sensor in the hub. If it gets disconnected, you will get a warning light in your instrument cluster.

 

[dmtml]

looks like choices are pretty slim
oem replacement acdelco is 84176675 $382 (each)
arnott makes one that is "passive" and does not have ride-control those are $207 each AS3429
rockauto has either, I would go with oem myself since there really isn't another working alternative out that I know of the oem ride-control is a nice feature.

Looks like I ended up with the wrong part...went to do the replacement today, and the existing air shock in my Yukon does not appear to have an electrical connection, it just has an air connection. Ugh

Here is my RPO codes, does this help at all in figuring out what I need?

1GKS2GKC1JR189830,2018,TK15906,11,17,06,VQGQHN, AG2 AN3 ARL AXP AYQ CJ4 C6H DL3 FHS GAN H2X IO6 I18 JD9 L83 MBC MYC NP5 NTB QSS RC4 RD5 RUF TC2 UDD UQA U2K V8E WMJ Z49 Z85 Z88 4AA 4SA 6SH 7SH 8X2 9X2,636R,,,,

 

[dmtml]

Is it the AS3429 that I need?

 

[Doubeleive]

Looks like I ended up with the wrong part...went to do the replacement today, and the existing air shock in my Yukon does not appear to have an electrical connection, it just has an air connection. Ugh

Here is my RPO codes, does this help at all in figuring out what I need?

1GKS2GKC1JR189830,2018,TK15906,11,17,06,VQGQHN, AG2 AN3 ARL AXP AYQ CJ4 C6H DL3 FHS GAN H2X IO6 I18 JD9 L83 MBC MYC NP5 NTB QSS RC4 RD5 RUF TC2 UDD UQA U2K V8E WMJ Z49 Z85 Z88 4AA 4SA 6SH 7SH 8X2 9X2,636R,,,,

not possible, they don't make a factory air shock without the sensor which means some one else already had changed them and the sensor harness is probably zip tied up somewhere, take a flashlight and look around near the top shock mount.

 

[dmtml]

not possible, they don't make a factory air shock without the sensor which means some one else already had changed them and the sensor harness is probably zip tied up somewhere, take a flashlight and look around near the top shock mount.

Interesting, thank you very much. I'll crawl back under there tonight and see if I can find it! I did feel around a little bit initially and didn't feel anything, but I'll dig deeper this time since I know it should be there.

 

[Doubeleive]

Interesting, thank you very much. I'll crawl back under there tonight and see if I can find it! I did feel around a little bit initially and didn't feel anything, but I'll dig deeper this time since I know it should be there.

The harness you are looking for will be a 2 pin connector that fits the port on your new shock, it probably has a resistor pack plugged into it and is probably tucked up away somewhere otherwise it would just be dangling there

 

[22ECO]

not possible, they don't make a factory air shock without the sensor which means some one else already had changed them and the sensor harness is probably zip tied up somewhere, take a flashlight and look around near the top shock mo

That’s not entirely true, have the same thing. You have the increased capacity package, so you do not have the Magneride just a leveling shock. The Ride height is sensed by a sensor on the driver side.. PN# 19432783 should be the correct shock.

If you don’t mind the leveling system warning every time you get in the SUV.
I would suggest scraping that air ride crap and installing these Dayton springs 351-897HD with Bilstein 5100 shocks 24-253260.. the ride is so much better.. Now I will say those springs will raise the rear about an inch of the factory height. Before your shocks were blown. I have a 2” leveling kit on the front and it sat just about level. If you remove the air shocks, you have to replace those springs because the rear will sag. They are designed to be helped by the air shock.

 

[Doubeleive]

That’s not entirely true, have the same thing. You have the increased capacity package, so you do not have the Magneride just a leveling shock. The Ride height is sensed by a sensor on the driver side.. PN# 19432783 should be the correct shock.

If you don’t mind the leveling system warning every time you get in the SUV.
I would suggest scraping that air ride crap and installing these Dayton springs 351-897HD with Bilstein 5100 shocks 24-253260.. the ride is so much better.. Now I will say those springs will raise the rear about an inch of the factory height. Before your shocks were blown. I have a 2” leveling kit on the front and it sat just about level. If you remove the air shocks, you have to replace those springs because the rear will sag. They are designed to be helped by the air shock.

well that would explain it, news to me I haven't seen too many z85's around.
if this is the case then you can probably still use the shock anyway, the bladder will work just like one without a sensor, the air pressure in on a single line and the pressure is equalized between the 2 shocks.

 

[dmtml]

That’s not entirely true, have the same thing. You have the increased capacity package, so you do not have the Magneride just a leveling shock. The Ride height is sensed by a sensor on the driver side.. PN# 19432783 should be the correct shock.

If you don’t mind the leveling system warning every time you get in the SUV.
I would suggest scraping that air ride crap and installing these Dayton springs 351-897HD with Bilstein 5100 shocks 24-253260.. the ride is so much better.. Now I will say those springs will raise the rear about an inch of the factory height. Before your shocks were blown. I have a 2” leveling kit on the front and it sat just about level. If you remove the air shocks, you have to replace those springs because the rear will sag. They are designed to be helped by the air shock.

Thanks. It appears that you are right, with the Z85 code that means I do NOT have the Magneride, that would be Z95.

Are you saying, "If you don't mind the warning, then scrap the air ride and go for the springs/shocks?". I'm just a little thrown off by the text formatting and it's making me do a double-take on what you're trying to say.

 

[22ECO]

I unplugged my compressor, and removed the air ride shocks. It rides so much better now. There is a downside, I get a notification on my dash that says to service the leveling system every time I get in. I just hit the ok and continue my drive.. I personally don’t mind it, but if that would bother you then I would stick to the stock shocks..