2013 Yukon 5.3 SLT with a 6 speed

[preston123]

So I figured I would do just one big post for this. So I have a 2013 Yukon SLT 2WD with a 5.3 and a 6 speed it has 127,500 miles with a 3.42 rear. So far the Yukon has had no problems over its life except for a freak thing where the cats went bad. I want to do get the displacement on demand turned off. The engine has started to burn a little oil. Oil changes are done every 3000-3500 miles.

Also the transmission shifts are becoming more and more noticeable. I am assuming this is because of displacement on demand. It has already been serviced 3 times since new.

What are some things I can do to help these issues? I was thinking a range disabler? Please speak up if any of y’all have had issues with range. I know that a full tear down would be ideal. I am somewhat financially limited because I am a student right now about to graduate college in a year.

 

[swathdiver]

So I figured I would do just one big post for this. So I have a 2013 Yukon SLT 2WD with a 5.3 and a 6 speed it has 127,500 miles with a 3.42 rear. So far the Yukon has had no problems over its life except for a freak thing where the cats went bad. I want to do get the displacement on demand turned off. The engine has started to burn a little oil. Oil changes are done every 3000-3500 miles.

Also the transmission shifts are becoming more and more noticeable. I am assuming this is because of displacement on demand. It has already been serviced 3 times since new.

What are some things I can do to help these issues? I was thinking a range disabler? Please speak up if any of y’all have had issues with range. I know that a full tear down would be ideal. I am somewhat financially limited because I am a student right now about to graduate college in a year.

Get a tune by BlackBear. They will disable AFM in the tune and tweak your transmission for better performance and durability.

How many times have you serviced the transmission so far? If it's been more than 40K miles, get it done soon.

My motor burns no oil when rpms are kept below 3000 rpms.

 

[preston123]

Get a tune by BlackBear. They will disable AFM in the tune and tweak your transmission for better performance and durability.

How many times have you serviced the transmission so far? If it's been more than 40K miles, get it done soon.

My motor burns no oil when rpms are kept below 3000 rpms.

It was done first at 26k, 63ishk, and then around 80-82k. So then ya it probably needs a service then.

 

[iamdub]

So I figured I would do just one big post for this. So I have a 2013 Yukon SLT 2WD with a 5.3 and a 6 speed it has 127,500 miles with a 3.42 rear. So far the Yukon has had no problems over its life except for a freak thing where the cats went bad. I want to do get the displacement on demand turned off. The engine has started to burn a little oil. Oil changes are done every 3000-3500 miles.

Also the transmission shifts are becoming more and more noticeable. I am assuming this is because of displacement on demand. It has already been serviced 3 times since new.

What are some things I can do to help these issues? I was thinking a range disabler? Please speak up if any of y’all have had issues with range. I know that a full tear down would be ideal. I am somewhat financially limited because I am a student right now about to graduate college in a year.

I agree with a Blackbear tune. Much improved response, drivability and prolonged transmission life are the primary benefits. Extra power to the ground is a fringe benefit.

If such a tune is not in your budget (although I'd suggest you try really hard), and if you can afford to have your Yukon off the road for a few days, you can send your PCM off to have AFM disabled in the tune for around $60 total (HERE).

If being without your Yukon for a few days isn't an option, you can have a local tuner disable AFM. Prices vary, but you can expect it to be around $100-$150ish. I had a local tuner disable mine as well as remove the speed limiter and disable the downstream oxygen sensors (for future cat delete with headers) for $150. No power tuning (altering fuel and timing tables, etc.). Really, anyone with HP Tuners or EFI Live can do this. At least with HPT, the tuning credits are $50 and your vehicle requires two, so $100. You're sure to find plenty of people around you on an automotive custom and performance Facebook page that has or knows someone who has a tuning program. Maybe they'd do it for the cost of the credits and a little gas or beer money.

The Range has its benefits, mostly as being a simple plug-in device that's easily reversed. This is great if any "tuning" needed to be removed before bringing the vehicle in for service and not voiding a warranty. I doubt you have such a warranty concern on your 2013. When it's unplugged it resets the readiness monitors. So, if your locale requires emissions testing, you'll have to unplug it (which will reactivate AFM) and perform drive cycles to satisfy the various readiness monitors before you can get tested. I don't like the idea of reviving this system after it has been dormant for an extended amount of time. Also, it has been reported that the Range draws power the entire time it's plugged in so it should be unplugged if the vehicle will be parked for a week or so.

 

[preston123]

I agree with a Blackbear tune. Much improved response, drivability and prolonged transmission life are the primary benefits. Extra power to the ground is a fringe benefit.

If such a tune is not in your budget (although I'd suggest you try really hard), and if you can afford to have your Yukon off the road for a few days, you can send your PCM off to have AFM disabled in the tune for around $60 total (HERE).

If being without your Yukon for a few days isn't an option, you can have a local tuner disable AFM. Prices vary, but you can expect it to be around $100-$150ish. I had a local tuner disable mine as well as remove the speed limiter and disable the downstream oxygen sensors (for future cat delete with headers) for $150. No power tuning (altering fuel and timing tables, etc.). Really, anyone with HP Tuners or EFI Live can do this. At least with HPT, the tuning credits are $50 and your vehicle requires two, so $100. You're sure to find plenty of people around you on an automotive custom and performance Facebook page that has or knows someone who has a tuning program. Maybe they'd do it for the cost of the credits and a little gas or beer money.

The Range has its benefits, mostly as being a simple plug-in device that's easily reversed. This is great if any "tuning" needed to be removed before bringing the vehicle in for service and not voiding a warranty. I doubt you have such a warranty concern on your 2013. When it's unplugged it resets the readiness monitors. So, if your locale requires emissions testing, you'll have to unplug it (which will reactivate AFM) and perform drive cycles to satisfy the various readiness monitors before you can get tested. I don't like the idea of reviving this system after it has been dormant for an extended amount of time. Also, it has been reported that the Range draws power the entire time it's plugged in so it should be unplugged if the vehicle will be parked for a week or so.

Good to know. Thank you! I really wish that I could get the better tune but i unfortunately cannot go without a vehicle right now.

 

[iamdub]

Good to know. Thank you! I really wish that I could get the better tune but i unfortunately cannot go without a vehicle right now.

Understood! I was just listing out the other options that many don't realize they have.

Finding a local tuner would still be cheaper than the Range and it'd be "permanent" (as in, not needing to maintain a dongle, etc.) and shouldn't take more than about half an hour.

 

[Geotrash]

Understood! I was just listing out the other options that many don't realize they have.

Finding a local tuner would still be cheaper than the Range and it'd be "permanent" (as in, not needing to maintain a dongle, etc.) and shouldn't take more than about half an hour.

+1 ^^^This.

 

[the 18th letter]

I agree with a Blackbear tune. Much improved response, drivability and prolonged transmission life are the primary benefits. Extra power to the ground is a fringe benefit.

If such a tune is not in your budget (although I'd suggest you try really hard), and if you can afford to have your Yukon off the road for a few days, you can send your PCM off to have AFM disabled in the tune for around $60 total (HERE).

If being without your Yukon for a few days isn't an option, you can have a local tuner disable AFM. Prices vary, but you can expect it to be around $100-$150ish. I had a local tuner disable mine as well as remove the speed limiter and disable the downstream oxygen sensors (for future cat delete with headers) for $150. No power tuning (altering fuel and timing tables, etc.). Really, anyone with HP Tuners or EFI Live can do this. At least with HPT, the tuning credits are $50 and your vehicle requires two, so $100. You're sure to find plenty of people around you on an automotive custom and performance Facebook page that has or knows someone who has a tuning program. Maybe they'd do it for the cost of the credits and a little gas or beer money.

The Range has its benefits, mostly as being a simple plug-in device that's easily reversed. This is great if any "tuning" needed to be removed before bringing the vehicle in for service and not voiding a warranty. I doubt you have such a warranty concern on your 2013. When it's unplugged it resets the readiness monitors. So, if your locale requires emissions testing, you'll have to unplug it (which will reactivate AFM) and perform drive cycles to satisfy the various readiness monitors before you can get tested. I don't like the idea of reviving this system after it has been dormant for an extended amount of time. Also, it has been reported that the Range draws power the entire time it's plugged in so it should be unplugged if the vehicle will be parked for a week or so.

Any field tests on reactivating the AFM for inspection? I can follow the logic but at the same time my truck often goes more than 2 years without activating 4x4 and it’s been no problem when needed. Old thread bump…

 

[iamdub]

Any field tests on reactivating the AFM for inspection? I can follow the logic but at the same time my truck often goes more than 2 years without activating 4x4 and it’s been no problem when needed. Old thread bump…

No "field tests" that I know of other than driving it with your fingers crossed. This would/should only be a concern for those that have to remove a plug-in disabler. With a 4WD system, there aren't very many solenoids, actuators, etc. involved. With AFM, there are eight and they are all subject to drastic temperature swings and the ever-changing composition of the engine oil. Then there are the locking components inside the AFM lifters that have ridden in one static position for X amount of time while being loaded and unloaded as they ride the cam lobes up and get shoved back down from the valve springs. A sticky solenoid or actuator in the 4WD system isn't subject to activation and deactivation speeds that vary with engine speed. Lots more room for failure in that system than the 4WD stuff.

Unless the locale in question has a way to discern and can only pass a 100% factory tune during inspection, having it turned off in a tune shouldn't have anything to do with a pass or fail. The best I've figured out is that whatever the plug-in modules do to keep AFM from activating, it results in the readiness monitors being reset. So, after it is unplugged and the AFM system is reactivated, you have to complete the necessary drive cycles to set the readiness monitors before having an inspection. I recall a member here unplugged his after X time and his lifters cursed him out so he was forced to do an AFM delete. Actually, unless I have some members mixed up, I think he's in California and passes his inspections even with a cam and tune.

 

[the 18th letter]

No "field tests" that I know of other than driving it with your fingers crossed. This would/should only be a concern for those that have to remove a plug-in disabler. With a 4WD system, there aren't very many solenoids, actuators, etc. involved. With AFM, there are eight and they are all subject to drastic temperature swings and the ever-changing composition of the engine oil. Then there are the locking components inside the AFM lifters that have ridden in one static position for X amount of time while being loaded and unloaded as they ride the cam lobes up and get shoved back down from the valve springs. A sticky solenoid or actuator in the 4WD system isn't subject to activation and deactivation speeds that vary with engine speed. Lots more room for failure in that system than the 4WD stuff.

Unless the locale in question has a way to discern and can only pass a 100% factory tune during inspection, having it turned off in a tune shouldn't have anything to do with a pass or fail. The best I've figured out is that whatever the plug-in modules do to keep AFM from activating, it results in the readiness monitors being reset. So, after it is unplugged and the AFM system is reactivated, you have to complete the necessary drive cycles to set the readiness monitors before having an inspection. I recall a member here unplugged his after X time and his lifters cursed him out so he was forced to do an AFM delete. Actually, unless I have some members mixed up, I think he's in California and passes his inspections even with a cam and tune.

I follow the logic. May have to budget a tune out of the AFM soon. I’ve got 2 years until inspection and started using a Range disabler since the last inspection. Already decided I will delete it if I have to do a rebuild but your theory adds to my consideration of a tune out.