2010 Yukon Denali retrofit, highbeam issue

[mooman]

I just finished a retrofit. Morimoto mini h1, bi-xenon.
Wired everthing. Perfect. Lows come on and when I go to high-beam, the factory setting is to kill lowbeams and fogs. Got it.

I bought this kit which is suppose to over-ride that setting.

https://boostautoparts.com/products/6hi

I wired everything as the video shows for my make and model. I go through the steps, low beams come on, fogs are enabled via button. When I go to high-beam, the fogs stay on and the low beams are killed. So high-beam and fogs are activated. But no low-beams. The cut off plate "clicks" and is lowered, as it should.

I have checked for power. In the low beam setting, I have 13v-14v to 1 wire and 0v to the highbeam wire, ground is center wire. When I go to high-beam, the high-beam wire gets power(13v-14v, but I get no voltage to the low-beam wire.

According to the kit, it will allow to run 6-hi.

I have checked all my lighting fuses, good. I have swapped relays and I am under the impression that all relays are good.
I have seen the 6hi mod posted. Am I better off going that route, or am I dealing with another problem.

I have reached out to the company, but I have yet to get an answer.(weekend).

 

[kbuskill]

I just finished a retrofit. Morimoto mini h1, bi-xenon.
Wired everthing. Perfect. Lows come on and when I go to high-beam, the factory setting is to kill lowbeams and fogs. Got it.

I bought this kit which is suppose to over-ride that setting.

https://boostautoparts.com/products/6hi

I wired everything as the video shows for my make and model. I go through the steps, low beams come on, fogs are enabled via button. When I go to high-beam, the fogs stay on and the low beams are killed. So high-beam and fogs are activated. But no low-beams. The cut off plate "clicks" and is lowered, as it should.

I have checked for power. In the low beam setting, I have 13v-14v to 1 wire and 0v to the highbeam wire, ground is center wire. When I go to high-beam, the high-beam wire gets power(13v-14v, but I get no voltage to the low-beam wire.

According to the kit, it will allow to run 6-hi.

I have checked all my lighting fuses, good. I have swapped relays and I am under the impression that all relays are good.
I have seen the 6hi mod posted. Am I better off going that route, or am I dealing with another problem.

I have reached out to the company, but I have yet to get an answer.(weekend).

Who installed the retrofit???

 

[mooman]

I did the retrofit/installation.

 

[kbuskill]

I did the retrofit/installation.

If the factory default is to turn off the low beam when the high beam turns on, which would be different from the Tahoe/Suburban, then the problem is that you are losing power to the low beam positive... obviously.

I believe the advertisement in the link you posted is a bit misleading when it lists the Yukons. The "module" you bought is nothing more than a diode with some heat shrink and connectors.

You install it between the high beam positive and the fog light positive at the BCM. The diode allows power to flow from the high beam to the fog light but not the other direction.

If you hooked up a wire between the two it would do the same thing EXCEPT when you hit the fog light switch the high beams would come on with them if the diode were not in line.

There are a couple ways you could "fix" your situation.

1. You could buy another "module" from them and hook it between the high beam and low beam wire at the BCM. I'm not 100% sure which wires that would be, but it wouldn't be to hard to figure out.
***EDIT***
Looks like if you hooked a diode between the same dark Green/white wire you hooked to earlier and the Pink/white wire at the BCM it would make it work. There may be more than one pink wire so to test you could probe the pink wire with a test light and see if the test light is on with the LB and off with the HB. Or you could probably find a pin out of the BCM connector somewhere online.

2. You could do the same as above with your own diode and save about $15-$18.

3. You could install a diode at the back of each headlight between the HB+ and the LB+ allowing power to flow from the HB->LB but not the other direction.

4. You could probably also do this same thing in or under the underhood fuse box by tapping into the HB and LB relays.

Hope this helps or maybe the place where you bought that kit from has an easier solution.

 

[mooman]

Thanks to your reply, I was able to figure out, kinda, on how to run it semi correct. The way I now have it set it is running that kit from the lowbeam to the highbeam, vs lowbeam to fog. It works now since I need the use of highbeams over the use of fogs right now . I will have to order another another to run 6-hi, or run a diode to the lowbeam wire to the fogs.

Thanks my dude!

 

[Kenneyd]

Thanks to your reply, I was able to figure out, kinda, on how to run it semi correct. The way I now have it set it is running that kit from the lowbeam to the highbeam, vs lowbeam to fog. It works now since I need the use of highbeams over the use of fogs right now . I will have to order another another to run 6-hi, or run a diode to the lowbeam wire to the fogs.

Thanks my dude!

What color wire was the low beams? (i assume the High beam is the green/wht)
I watched the video, and he ran the diode between the green/wht and the tan/wht, but that i believe is for the fog lights.
Im currently trying to finish up a Mini H1 retrofit as well, but cant get the lowbeams to stay on with the highs.

 

[mooman]

Yes. Highbeam is g/w. Low beam is G/blk. When running the diode, "blue" end is to g/blk wire like here:

 

[mooman]

By doing the diode between low and fog, it gives it power to the fog so when you activate highbeam, your fogs to autokill.

Then by doing this mod:
https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/how-to-nnbs-6-hi-mod-the-proper-way.186969/

It allows you to run High and low together. Now with the diode and the relay in place, you are now sending power to fogs, highs, and lows. I have been running this kit since I first posted this issue. I have had zero problems. I am also running the morimoto v6 mini H1.

 

[Kenneyd]

By doing the diode between low and fog, it gives it power to the fog so when you activate highbeam, your fogs to autokill.

Then by doing this mod:
https://www.gmfullsize.com/threads/how-to-nnbs-6-hi-mod-the-proper-way.186969/

It allows you to run High and low together. Now with the diode and the relay in place, you are now sending power to fogs, highs, and lows. I have been running this kit since I first posted this issue. I have had zero problems. I am also running the morimoto v6 mini H1.

Thanks for the reply, I contacted boost auto and he gave me some tips.

I ran a diode from the PINK/white wire in pin 23 of the brown plug (thats the low beam) to the TAN/white wire on the black plug (thats the high beam)
What was odd IMO was when the fog/low/high was OFF, the pin
showed 12v. When the fog/low/high was ON, then it showed 0v. I actually ran the diode from the pink to the tan.
Anyway, my lows now stay ON when the highs are triggered.
I didnt mess with the fogs.

 

[Kenneyd]

Oh, And i would never recommend "spec-d" lights. I've used aftermarket housing from spider and other off brands, and they are usually fair quality, but these Spec'ds, while the look ok, they are the worst quality light I've ever dealt with and the unmodified light output is downright dangerous.
Definitely put the morimoto retrofit as priority 1.
I did the morimoto Mini H1 with 4500k XB bulbs and 35w XB ballast. There is no room for the DS2 etc.

 

[mooman]

Awww, I was looking realy hard at redoing my lights to the D2S. Thanks for the update!

 

[Kenneyd]

Awww, I was looking realy hard at redoing my lights to the D2S. Thanks for the update!

Unless your headlight were different, while there was plenty of room inside the housing and enough room for a 3" lens, unfortunately there is no extra room at the rear for the square igniter plug on the back of the mini DS2 4.0
I have mini 7.0 in 2 of my cars and they perform well. I have a friend who has used everything, inclding the mini Ds2, and lots of OEM rip-out projectors, he swears bi the profile bi-lens, bi-led projectors. I was on the fence, but ended up going with what i knew worked. I believe the Bi-led would fit.

 

[Kenneyd]

Sorry for picture bombing your thread lol. Here is the stock "spec-d" light vs the mini h1 7.0 in my other car (I haven't been able to photograph the yukons, but there are the same output)
I tried to match the exposure on both pictures


Spec-d

Morimoto Mini H1 7.0 with 5500k /35 balast

And At 150'

 

[mooman]

Ah, I see now.

I retro fitted an OEM aftermarket style headlight. You did the spec-D. That maybe why I was kinda confused why the D2S would not fit.

In my opinion, LED based SINGLE projector is crap. The hot spot isn't correct. I have never seen a single style LED projector outshine a HID based peojector. Now when it comes to OEM, they went with the multiple LED projectors. I sat behind a new Acura MDX and stunned by the output of the 10 little projectors vs my mini H1(I know, not a great comparison) each little projector doing its thang.....