I have a problem with my 2005 Yukon, so it has a Small leak in the radiator. So every week or so I have to put water in it because I run mail in my Yukon, and one day I checked it and somebody started talking to me, so I shut the lid and forgot to put the water cap back on the reservoir, and I went 8 miles then It flashed that, it was overheating. I pulled off and automatically turned my car completely off. Let it cool down. I opened the hood and noticed I had forgotten to put the cap back on. I left it there to cool completely. Came back the next day to take it home, and it kept overheating every mile. I kept turning it off, then I took it to the shop. I got New water pump and thermostat. I spent $1000 and it's still slightly overheating to the line before the red line. I cannot work until I get this fixed, and I have no more money because I used all my savings. Another thing the oil is not milky and there's no white smoke coming out the tailpipe so I don't think it is a cracked head or a gasket.. Does anybody have any ideas on what to do? I really appreciate it. Thank you!
2005 Yukon overheating
- Thread starter kayla
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2016Dom
TYF Newbie
I would check the temp sensor and of course the water flow at temp and level , could be air locked.
You did not mentioned if the radiator was fixed.
You did not mentioned if the radiator was fixed.
I just replaced the temp sensor yesterday and no there is still the one hole leak! They didn't even touch it when I mentioned it
Pen hole
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
I would replace that radiator before you do anything else. I know you mentioned spending money on the other parts, but that cost seems a bit high for the parts you mentioned. Do you have a copy of the bill?
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Mods please move this thread to the appropriate section.
0th, you've already overheated it at least once if not more.
1st, TRY adding new coolant SLOWLY. The quicker you add coolant, the quicker you introduce AIR into the cooling system.
Gotta burp any air trapped in the system. Forgot what it's called, but there's a device / kit that guarantees that air cannot be introduced into the system.
2nd, you wrote 'water', you never wrote 'coolant'.
a. Even the highest quality water lacks anti-corrosive protective chemicals. Corrosion prevents heat transfer; it makes everything run HOTTER.
b. Without the cap screwed on TIGHT, H2O boils over & out @ 212F. Once the H2O boils out, the temp sensor will respond more slowly.
3rd, after you finish adding antifreeze (water? seriously?), start the engine and leave the coolant cap off for a few seconds.
Do you see bubbles in the coolant tank? If you see bubbles in there, go get the motor oil and the coolant checked again.
0th, you've already overheated it at least once if not more.
1st, TRY adding new coolant SLOWLY. The quicker you add coolant, the quicker you introduce AIR into the cooling system.
Gotta burp any air trapped in the system. Forgot what it's called, but there's a device / kit that guarantees that air cannot be introduced into the system.
2nd, you wrote 'water', you never wrote 'coolant'.
a. Even the highest quality water lacks anti-corrosive protective chemicals. Corrosion prevents heat transfer; it makes everything run HOTTER.
b. Without the cap screwed on TIGHT, H2O boils over & out @ 212F. Once the H2O boils out, the temp sensor will respond more slowly.
3rd, after you finish adding antifreeze (water? seriously?), start the engine and leave the coolant cap off for a few seconds.
Do you see bubbles in the coolant tank? If you see bubbles in there, go get the motor oil and the coolant checked again.
My husband told me water was okay to use during the summer my mom's boyfriend did the burping the air out idling it a 25 rpms (I think that's what you call it) for a while and it's still slightly overheating and said he thinks there is a Air pocket in the coil pack. I don't know if I'm right on that!
FWIW The receipt shows 4 gallons of orange concentrate antifreeze, nearly double what an empty system would need for a 50/50 mix.
There aren't air pockets in the coil packs, but could be in the cooling system.
There aren't air pockets in the coil packs, but could be in the cooling system.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
This forum is not for advice about marriage, but that he said 'water is ok to use during the summer' raises concerns.
Antifreeze is better, year round.
Your mom's boyfriend likely ain't right either; if he burped it, it'd be burped.
If HE said 'air pocket in the coil pack', keep him away from underhood going forward.
If YOU said 'air pocket in the coil pack', take it back to him and tell him to finish burping it damnt;
ain't finished til it's finished.
I'll say again:
Start it COLD with the coolant cap off.
If you see bubbles in the coolant tank, go get the motor oil and the coolant checked again
BY A MECHANIC.
How do I get the air out of the cooling system?
rockola1971
Full Access Member
Let it idle while parked on a incline. Front of vehicle pointing toward high part of incline. Squeezing the lower and upper radiator hose helps too. Be careful around the fan and belts. If the engine warms up fast from cold then you are introducing hot exhaust gases into the cooling system because you have a blown head gasket. Depending on where your head gasket blew determines whether you have coolant in your oil or not.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
This thread is kinda hard to follow. OP doesn't seem to know the vehicle, parts and vocabulary, which is okay and understandable.
Questions for OP:
1. Is the vehicle fixed where it's no longer leaking? Yes or no? You mentioned radiator was leaking, and @2016Dom asked you in post #2, but you never responded.
2. Why was the water pump replaced? Who diagnosed that as bad? Or was it leaking also?
3. Do you have air in their coolant system? Very highly doubtful. These engines on these vehicles are designed such that literally burp themselves (unlike babies
...joking). The factory coolant crossover pipes allow air to escape after replacing something like thermostat or water pump. Just let it idle with the coolant cap off until it reaches operating temperature, flip the throttle a few times. Turn on the heater to confirm water is circulating. Done. But if you still suspect this, go ahead and try what I just described.
3a. Follow-up question: did you get hot air coming our when you turned on your heater?
Please answer these questions so folks can offer meaningful advice. Good luck.
Questions for OP:
1. Is the vehicle fixed where it's no longer leaking? Yes or no? You mentioned radiator was leaking, and @2016Dom asked you in post #2, but you never responded.
2. Why was the water pump replaced? Who diagnosed that as bad? Or was it leaking also?
3. Do you have air in their coolant system? Very highly doubtful. These engines on these vehicles are designed such that literally burp themselves (unlike babies
...joking). The factory coolant crossover pipes allow air to escape after replacing something like thermostat or water pump. Just let it idle with the coolant cap off until it reaches operating temperature, flip the throttle a few times. Turn on the heater to confirm water is circulating. Done. But if you still suspect this, go ahead and try what I just described.3a. Follow-up question: did you get hot air coming our when you turned on your heater?
Please answer these questions so folks can offer meaningful advice. Good luck.
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