2005 suburban smoke on startup

[Sstevieboy0208]

No I used to clean the replaceable ones in the old days. Sometimes the engine is stubborn to start but not the Yukon. Just use the spray tube on the throttle body cleaner to get it in there. Then go for a drive to burn the cleaner out of the system.

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I will do that. Thank you

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[Sstevieboy0208]

So now it happens when the car is cooled down. Still it does it on startup for about 2 to 3 seconds then nothing and as long as the engine is warm nothing happens . I haven't tried cleaning the PCV as I was told that I can't clean it. any advice will help. thank you all

 

[79jasper]

So now it happens when the car is cooled down. Still it does it on startup for about 2 to 3 seconds then nothing and as long as the engine is warm nothing happens . I haven't tried cleaning the PCV as I was told that I can't clean it. any advice will help. thank you all

Really isn't one. Not like the old ones.
Pull you intake pipe off and look inside your intake for oil.

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[Sstevieboy0208]

Really isn't one. Not like the old ones.
Pull you intake pipe off and look inside your intake for oil.

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So a new update. Somehow it does it now when the car is cool down after a drive and the weather is cooler and rainy

 

[swathdiver]

So a new update. Somehow it does it now when the car is cool down after a drive and the weather is cooler and rainy

Still does what, the blue smoke at start up? Like a radial engine just being started? Check the oil and keep driving it. If it starts to make blue smoke all the time, like while driving, then it's time to pull the heads before the oil takes out the catalytic converters.

 

[Sstevieboy0208]

Still does what, the blue smoke at start up? Like a radial engine just being started? Check the oil and keep driving it. If it starts to make blue smoke all the time, like while driving, then it's time to pull the heads before the oil takes out the catalytic converters.

Yes blue smoke for 2 or 3 seconds. And oil burn is still within specs

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[exp500]

Have you tried a "different" oil yet? Sometimes an oil change will delay further wear. Try a 15-45 diesel oil. You are already pushing oil to the cat converters so a little ash won't hurt much.

 

[TJ Baker]

the weather is cooler and rainy

Hmmm.....when the atmosphere is already at a high relative humidity I suspect white 'smoke' from water in the exhaust to be far more noticeable. Blue smoke from oil however....I don't really know if that should be affected by a high atmospheric rH.

Anyone know?

 

[Sstevieboy0208]

Hmmm.....when the atmosphere is already at a high relative humidity I suspect white 'smoke' from water in the exhaust to be far more noticeable. Blue smoke from oil however....I don't really know if that should be affected by a high atmospheric rH.

Anyone know?

What water in the exhaust?

 

[TJ Baker]

What water in the exhaust?

Well for starters the combustion process itself produces water. I think it is something like a gallon of water per gallon of gasoline burned.

Second possibility is a leaking head gasket or cracked head.

 

[Sstevieboy0208]

I don't have coolant loss just oil and at a start up

 

[sonic_the_hedgeh]

I will definitely try that tomorrow after work. Will be wirth the try. No side effects to that?

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There is a green cap on a vacuum line under the black plastic engine cover. Then a screw to remove hiding the stem with the green cap on it. Spray in that tube as well. Think it's the pcv. Then to the left side of the engine (drivers side) remove the black rubber hose at the back of the engine as well spray down that one. Helps clean the whole thing out. Helped mine run a little smoother

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[Sstevieboy0208]

There is a green cap on a vacuum line under the black plastic engine cover. Then a screw to remove hiding the stem with the green cap on it. Spray in that tube as well. Think it's the pcv. Then to the left side of the engine (drivers side) remove the black rubber hose at the back of the engine as well spray down that one. Helps clean the whole thing out. Helped mine run a little smoother

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Well. Latest update. I did replace the driver's side valve cover that have the PCV valve built in with the new style and 1200 miles so far and no smoke on any start up so far. Will be checking oil later today and posting update on the consumption.

 

[Sstevieboy0208]

Very last update unless something changes. Ever since I changed the valve cover that have the PCV valve in and the smoke is gone and the oil burning is way less and I believe that it is within specs. So hopefully this can help someone else in the future. Thank you all

 

[BlackedOutHoe]

No, they do not need to be replaced right away. They will not get better and will get worse but it will be a little at a time, typically. The seals can be replaced with the heads still on the engine but for valve guides and seals I recommend the heads come off and go to the machine shop or get a pair of reman heads and bolt them on. Either job is tedious enough that you need a good mechanical background or a friend that is trained. Personally, I would never do just the seals unless you are selling the vehicle.

May I ask why? Mine is burning oil excessively, and plan to replace the valve seals this month.

 

[Rocket Man]

Very last update unless something changes. Ever since I changed the valve cover that have the PCV valve in and the smoke is gone and the oil burning is way less and I believe that it is within specs. So hopefully this can help someone else in the future. Thank you all

Thanks for the update. Looks like the fix was pretty simple. The updated valve cover has helped quite a few with oil consumption issues.

 

[OR VietVet]

May I ask why? Mine is burning oil excessively, and plan to replace the valve seals this month.

Ask why what? I need context. I read my quote and it is pretty straight forward.

 

[RedRadioFlyer]

May I ask why? Mine is burning oil excessively, and plan to replace the valve seals this month.

I THINK he may be alluding to the best practice of cleaning and inspecting the valves and guides on the block side of the heads, and hand lapping the valve ports while the seals are out. His recommendation is a good one especially if there has been oil bypassing and you get a lot of smoke - youll probably see contamination around the ports/valve face that needs to be removed, and replacing the valves is good peace of mind IMO. All that must be done with the heads off, and if they are off its not a bad idea to go have them cleaned, tested, possibly a valve grind, resurface, and they can do the lapping for you at a machine shop. That causes significant downtime and repair cost increase though.

If you just hot swap the seals one valve may not be closing all the way and your fuel mix could be off, and if its really bad other internals could eventually be affected. Big job to fix a small complaint, i know.

PNW - if I missed the mark on that let us know

 

[OR VietVet]

I just did not understand the context he was alluding to.

 

[RedRadioFlyer]

10-4, was just reading between the lines. I'm sure he'll come back and let us know if we didn't clear it up.