2003 Yukon 5.3L SLT 4WD Brake line replacement

[Summajet]

I am in the process of replacing my fuel pump, and charcoal canister. I noticed my brake lines are rusty.
I ordered the dorman complete stainless steel brake line complete kit 195193 i believe it was. Has anyone done this before and was there a process that helped them?

I was planning to run the new lines first and then disconnect the old lines and bolt up the new ones.

While the gas tank is dropped i can get to the driver's side frame rail and was thinking this will make it easier than a later time with the gas tank in.

I appreciate any input or tips.

Thanks,

 

[Matahoe]

In the same boat with you on my 05 Tahoe. Went to start it the other day and the brake pedal went to the floor. Got out and found brake fluid dripping at rear drivers side wheel well.

I found after a brief inspection that all my brake lines are encapsulated in a scaly, rusty mess. I'm guessing it's normal for my location and age. Ultimately I had to knock off rust and pry lines apart at same location to find leak.

I bought the OEM ACDelco black coated pre-bent line kit from the dealer for about $220. Part # 19419103 w/Active Braking Control (JL4). Kit came with 9 lines. Cross p/n for Dorman would be 919-154 I believe. Note that both kits are pre-bent but both look different and use different metal types (SS, nickel plated,) and OEM lines are black nylon coated vs the Dorman part which is not coated at all because it is stainless steel.

I was thinking about first working on the 2 lines going from under the hood to ABS pump/motor. Im not sure how many hours/days this going to take. Will go line by line for sure but wondering if there is any recommended order.

 

[rockola1971]

I am in the process of replacing my fuel pump, and charcoal canister. I noticed my brake lines are rusty.
I ordered the dorman complete stainless steel brake line complete kit 195193 i believe it was. Has anyone done this before and was there a process that helped them?

I was planning to run the new lines first and then disconnect the old lines and bolt up the new ones.

While the gas tank is dropped i can get to the driver's side frame rail and was thinking this will make it easier than a later time with the gas tank in.

I appreciate any input or tips.

Thanks,

Not enough room for the new lines to be installed before removing the old lines. Days before you even think about starting you should soak many times every couple hours where the lines go into the ABS manifold and their opposite ends at wheels and what not. Better soak the bleeders too! It is near impossible to get the system bled without a scanner that can access the auto bleed function which uses the abs pump to pump the system up and actuates the solenoids in the abs manifold where alot of air will be trapped. Some have used power vac bleed setups and even gravity bleeding overnight but those ways will never get all of the air out.

 

[Summajet]

I ended up getting the OEM ac delco coated línes as you did. I took pictures before removing any lines. Next I drawed a diagram of the abs pump and then unbolted one line at a time so I knew which line went to where. I purchased a master cylinder bleed kit from advance. I used the fittings and clear line as to keep the master cylinder from leaking all the fluid out to prevent having to bleed master cylinder when I was done. I also drew a diagram of the brake lines on the top of the rail on driver's side. If you take pictures and draw a diagram it will make installing each line faster and also making sure each line snaps onto each of the 3 plastic clips on top of the frame rail. There is a order to which line is installed first

Once I knew where the lines went from the abs pump, I then used dikes and cut/removed the brake lines. It is not as hard as I was expecting. The biggest thing is to install each line based on where they rest inside the front frame rail clip.
It saved me at least $2,000:in parts and labor. I would also suggest having a stubby wrench to get in the tight area when installing the lines to the abs pump.

I also placed tape over the ends of the lines as I fished them from the front to the abs pump. There is a mounting clip on top of the frame rail near the abs pump. Do not secure the lines into the frame rail Until you have the lines installed at the abs pump.

Also make sure you push the line inside the abs housing, then slide the nut onto the abs pump threads. IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS YOU WILL START TO CROSS THREAD THE FLARE NUTS.

I was able to get all my lines in. I had two lines on the top of the abs pump that were weeping. Friend of mine is a mechanic and he wrenched down on the two nuts and the weeping stopped.

I originally purchased the dorman stainless lines and while they are cheaper, do yourself a favor and get the OEM lines. The Ac delco lines are bent to the original shapes/angles. The dorman lines are thinner metal and when routing inside/top of frame rail they will bend easy and are not as rigid as the Ac Delco.

I will try to find the YouTube link and post it.

 

[Matahoe]

Nice tips. I have cut out a few olld lines and looked at clearance. Due to lines being pre-bent I think I'm going to remove fuel tank for ease of routing and fastening to support clips. Overall should save some time and frustration. Much less frustrating to remove fuel tank. Especially if you need to replace fuel pump, EVAP components or tank straps at the same time.

 

[project_x]

Nice tips. I have cut out a few olld lines and looked at clearance. Due to lines being pre-bent I think I'm going to remove fuel tank for ease of routing and fastening to support clips. Overall should save some time and frustration. Much less frustrating to remove fuel tank. Especially if you need to replace fuel pump, EVAP components or tank straps at the same time.

I did my Suburban last fall, there are several videos out there.. I didn't need to lower the tank.
Remove the wheel liner for the driver's rear wheel... Pre-bent went in pretty smoothly

 

[Matahoe]

I'll try. The problem is releasing and fastening the lines in the support clips. Also northern states you need to scrape off rust scale on frame which can contact new lines thus causing abrasion and leaks again. Should, as always, depend on where you live.

 

[Matahoe]

Oh crud. I bent one of the lines to the rear too many times it seems and the line cracked. Should have used a line bender tool I guess.

Any way to buy just a single line from GM? Or just get some bulk line and cut out bad area of line and make a few flares and patch a new section in? I have a flare tool that holds the line.

 

[Dron]

I know it is old post.
I had good lock with Dorman SS line kit. $120.
I replaced all break lines on my Escalade. No issues, lines are bent exactly to feet. I had to onbolt body mounts on driver side and lifted about 2" with 2x4. I spent all day to do the job.

 

[joliz4]

I know it is old post.
I had good lock with Dorman SS line kit. $120.
I replaced all break lines on my Escalade. No issues, lines are bent exactly to feet. I had to onbolt body mounts on driver side and lifted about 2" with 2x4. I spent all day to do the job.

Getting ready to change all mine as well. Did you have to disconnect anything before you lifted the body up a few inches ? Have all my body bolts out, seems like the e-brake cable is pretty tight through the front wall.