2002 Tahoe- Need A/C Parts Help!

[NC_John]

It sounds like the clutch in my compressor is locking up- squealing under load, sounds like the belt is smacking the lines... all the usual bad stuff going on so I'm setting up to replace the compressor this weekend. I'm getting mixed up looking at all the parts options on rockauto.

The truck is a 2002 4.8L, 2WD

Compressor- Denso 4710316. It doesn't note if its for trucks with rear a/c although some of the compressors make that note... Is this the right one?

Orifice Tube- this is a f*cking mystery... Denso 4754102? Front only listed, is there one for the rear? There are notes made about first and second design...which one do I need? What about ACDELCO Part # 1550121 {#19189842, 89032869} replaces 89032869???

Accumulator... I got PN 15074665 off my accumulator on the truck. The only accumulator that makes reference to that PN as a "built-with" is AC Delco 1510422. It also lists two of my RPO codes at compatible C60 and C69....

Do I need to get the accumulator insulation kit too or will I be able to reuse the one on the accumulator in the truck now?

I think figuring out what parts I need will be more difficult than doing the damn job.....

thanks for any and all assistance!

 

[bkboatnsleds]

Sounds like you have done your homework - but are you sure its not the idler pulley down there? (would be a cheaper fix )

 

[MrFleming007]

You only need one oriface tube, and that's for the front. The rear uses a expansion valve that is attached to the condenser core. I just redid the entire a/c system on my suburban. WELL worth the effort!

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[The 'ER]

Have you taken it to a shop or crawled underneath? I thought mine went out and that is not OK as I need my A/C. So took it to the shop when it was 90 and said fix it. Turns out my belt split in half so looked normal when viewed but under load would not do a thing. I had just put on a Dayco belt less than a year ago. New Dayco belt and all is good. I looked at belt to make sure it wasn't it was there but never have I heard of this nor had anyone at the shop. Hopefully it is something easy.

 

[NC_John]

Sounds like you have done your homework - but are you sure its not the idler pulley down there? (would be a cheaper fix )

It would be a cheaper fix but when its acting up, turning the A/C off makes the racket go away. The idler pulley spins regardless if the A/C is on or off so by process of elimination....

---------- Post added at 08:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:21 AM ----------

Have you taken it to a shop or crawled underneath? I thought mine went out and that is not OK as I need my A/C. So took it to the shop when it was 90 and said fix it. Turns out my belt split in half so looked normal when viewed but under load would not do a thing. I had just put on a Dayco belt less than a year ago. New Dayco belt and all is good. I looked at belt to make sure it wasn't it was there but never have I heard of this nor had anyone at the shop. Hopefully it is something easy.

My A/C is still working. The symptoms are when the engine is under heavy load (got the hammer down), there is belt squealing and sometimes slapping, like something is hitting the fan shroud. It stops immediately when the A/C is shut off. The compressor clutch is locking up intermittently (beginning of failure) which is causing the belt squealing on the compressor pulley and sometimes it'll even jump around- the slapping noise is the belt jumping and hitting the lines. If I let it do it long enough I'll break the idler pulley.

I'm here in the SE so yeah, I do absolutely need my A/C. At least it is happening now and not last week when we were on a family road trip up to Canada. I think the compressor is the orignal unit so its lived its life... (217K miles).

---------- Post added at 08:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:25 AM ----------

You only need one oriface tube, and that's for the front. The rear uses a expansion valve that is attached to the condenser core. I just redid the entire a/c system on my suburban. WELL worth the effort!

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

10-4. How did you pick your parts? Are all orifice tubes the same (other than the one for "extreme climates, +105 degrees")

Are all the compressors the same? If I get that denso there will be no fitment problems? There are way too many options on the rockauto website (and not just manufacturers).


ADDED LATER
---------- Post added at 09:26 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 AM ----------

Have you taken it to a shop or crawled underneath? I thought mine went out and that is not OK as I need my A/C. So took it to the shop when it was 90 and said fix it. Turns out my belt split in half so looked normal when viewed but under load would not do a thing. I had just put on a Dayco belt less than a year ago. New Dayco belt and all is good. I looked at belt to make sure it wasn't it was there but never have I heard of this nor had anyone at the shop. Hopefully it is something easy.

My wife is running the truck by a buddy's shop today- he told me to bring it by so he can have a look before I start throwing money at it. He had a couple things he wanted to check.... "don't go buy a compressor yet."

 

[MrFleming007]

I actually used both rockauto and Nalley GMC parts (who is one of the only GM sites I've found that gives parts diagrams and OEM numbers). In the end, I found a reputable Ebay seller that put a package together for me with a Delco compressor and Four Seasons parts for cheaper than I could get through rockauto. Price shopped the local shops and discovered that I could then buy a quality manifold gauge, bulk pack of refrigerant and a vacuum pump and evacuate and recharge the system myself for about the same price that the local guys would charge me for. I assembled everything my self, then put the system under vacuum for a couple days to get rid of moisture and make sure there were no leaks. It held at 29.75ish inHg of vacuum for three days with no loss. Recharged the system and A/C now blows at a nice 38°.

I used straight r134a with no performance enhancers. Only thing I added was fresh oil to everything (even the new compressor) with UV dye added just to make any future leaks easier to detect. For another $40, I could have skipped the dye and bought a refrigerant sniffer. All things considered, I got a new system and all the tools to do it myself (minus a reclaimer) for $550. Local shops wanted to charge me $1400 for the same, but with a knockoff brand compressor.

Edit: There are a TON of options on Rockauto, and they aren't very clear on the descriptions. If you have rear A/C, you need a compressor made for rear A/C. Not too sure on the oriface tube options, but Four Seasons and OEM are usually pretty safe bets.

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[ga41]

same problem on our 03 Tahoe, new compressor , accumulator and orfice tube, all nice and cold, be sure and replace all seals

 

[NC_John]

Alright, thanks guys.

Still haven't done anything yet. Its still blowing ice cold and if I keep my foot out of it and drive it easy, its staying quiet. My wife will be driving the 'hoe full time soon (I'm getting another company truck) so I'll still need to fix it. If it goes out on her in July I'll never hear the end of it...

(my buddy with the shop checked it out and told me to clean my MAF sensor- he thought the idle was too slow and thats why it was running rough. He ignored the fact that if I turned the AC off, the idle picked right back up and was pool table smooth. Sigh......)

 

[ga41]

our 03 lasted about 1-2000 miles once it started knocking , It will get progressively worse, then you'll break the tensioner, adding to the $$

 

[NC_John]

our 03 lasted about 1-2000 miles once it started knocking , It will get progressively worse, then you'll break the tensioner, adding to the $$

I know, I know.. I'm just delaying the inevitable. I would feel better about doing it if I was 100% sure that I was ordering the right parts. Too many options and if I order online, I'm kinda f*cked if I order the wrong PN's.