2000 Tahoe Cooling system replacement

[jakedaddy]

Hello All, I am new to this forum. After 160,000 miles my 2000 Tahoe Radiator tank cracked. I decided to replace all cf the cooling system. Radiator, hoses, pump, thermostat, overflow box, and all associated hoses. My question, I purchased all AC Delco GM parts from Rock Auto. It cost more money, sometimes double depending on part. Is this a wise decision?

 

[jakedaddy]

Hello All, I am new to this forum. After 160,000 miles my 2000 Tahoe Radiator tank cracked. I decided to replace all cf the cooling system. Radiator, hoses, pump, thermostat, overflow box, and all associated hoses. My question, I purchased all AC Delco GM parts from Rock Auto. It cost more money, sometimes double depending on part. Is this a wise decision?

also replaced fan clutch.

 

[justirv]

also replaced fan clutch.

First off, I recommend RA or genuine GM dealers. AMZ has a high probability of fake parts, and many suffer frustration after installation. What I would have recommended is going with the 34" wide radiator, and an e-fan conversion. There are plenty of write-ups on that process if interested. When filling, I like to use a vacuum system to both test for leaks, and of course evacuate any air. May want to flush out the heater core as well while your there. The plastic "tees" or connectors at the firewall get brittle, there are aluminum replacements available. Have fun!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

Yes, as @justirv stated above, GM OEM or ACDelco parts are preferred for the most part for proper fit and operation. Your choice was a good one IMO. If you have the plastic Tees, be sure to change them as well, as they do get brittle with heat and time, and they will rupture at the most inappropriate time.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... After 160,000 miles my 2000 Tahoe Radiator tank cracked. I decided to replace all cf the cooling system.
Radiator, hoses, pump, thermostat, overflow box, and all associated hoses.
My question, I purchased all AC Delco GM parts from Rock Auto.
It cost more money, sometimes double depending on part. Is this a wise decision?

Normally, I avoid the kneejerk reflex to brainlessly assume that GM OE is always best, BUT
for the cooling system, doing better than GM OE will always cost more, OF COURSE.
There are appropriately more expensive metallic upgrades for the T- & Y-pipes that route coolant to the rear,
for example - if you change your coolant every few years, they'd be worth it, as they might outlast the engine!
If you're REALLY clever or lucky or both, you MIGHT be able to spend enough time to find cheaper alternatives,
but it's a gamble when it comes to the cooling system. In other words, you spent money to save time,
both now and in the long run, which is not a mistake.

If you're clever enough to loosen your definition GM OE, and figure out how to upgrade with GM OE parts,
PLEASE be sure to brag in excruciating detail, seriously - we'd all benefit from learning more.
Otherwise what's this forum for? The babe thread?

Case in point: IFF you're having any issues with AC performance while sitting, like parked or at a long red light,
you may want to consider:
*a superior performing GM OE clutch & fan from a DuraMax 6.6L or 8.1L V8
*GM has a TSB that adds a 3rd electrical helper fan to the AC condenser
*a GM OE dual electrical fan conversion as suggested by justirv
so far as parts go, just pretend you have an '06 Tahoe
recently learned that there's more than one way to wire this;
for those who unwisely insist on avoiding a pcm tune, it still creates another option for better functionality

 

[jakedaddy]

Normally, I avoid the kneejerk reflex to brainlessly assume that GM OE is always best, BUT
for the cooling system, doing better than GM OE will always cost more, OF COURSE.
There are appropriately more expensive metallic upgrades for the T- & Y-pipes that route coolant to the rear,
for example - if you change your coolant every few years, they'd be worth it, as they might outlast the engine!
If you're REALLY clever or lucky or both, you MIGHT be able to spend enough time to find cheaper alternatives,
but it's a gamble when it comes to the cooling system. In other words, you spent money to save time,
both now and in the long run, which is not a mistake.

If you're clever enough to loosen your definition GM OE, and figure out how to upgrade with GM OE parts,
PLEASE be sure to brag in excruciating detail, seriously - we'd all benefit from learning more.
Otherwise what's this forum for? The babe thread?

Case in point: IFF you're having any issues with AC performance while sitting, like parked or at a long red light,
you may want to consider:
*a superior performing GM OE clutch & fan from a DuraMax 6.6L or 8.1L V8
*GM has a TSB that adds a 3rd electrical helper fan to the AC condenser
*a GM OE dual electrical fan conversion as suggested by justirv
so far as parts go, just pretend you have an '06 Tahoe
recently learned that there's more than one way to wire this;
for those who unwisely insist on avoiding a pcm tune, it still creates another option for better functionality

Thanks Marky for the input. I will be posting a detailed list of parts that I used and cost. I was not impressed with the Delco "GM OE" hoses that I received . There are two small diameter hoses that route from driver side head, through throttle body and onto the radiator. Any I deal what they are cooling or why they are needed. I replaced them.

I am big on changing fluids, dumped all fluids when I bought it in 03 with 30,000 miles on it and have done all fluids multiple times in the the last 130,000 miles. It does develop a Chevy tick when the oil is 3500 miles +, so I have been changing the motor oil at 3500 since about 60 K. I use mobil 1, and it really seems to make a difference. I know I could probably get more mileage out of an oil change, but I tow a boat, temperature is extremely hot in NC during summer, and can be cold for a few months in summer.

I see that you did a brake upgrade on yours. I am considering use the later model larger rotors and calipers on the front when it gets new brakes. I have the 16" stock wheels, and I know that I will have to put 17 or 18s on it to clear the caliper. Any experience you could share would be greatly appreciated.
Jakes

 

[jakedaddy]

First off, I recommend RA or genuine GM dealers. AMZ has a high probability of fake parts, and many suffer frustration after installation. What I would have recommended is going with the 34" wide radiator, and an e-fan conversion. There are plenty of write-ups on that process if interested. When filling, I like to use a vacuum system to both test for leaks, and of course evacuate any air. May want to flush out the heater core as well while your there. The plastic "tees" or connectors at the firewall get brittle, there are aluminum replacements available. Have fun!

Justriv,

So I used RA and a local family dealership for most all the parts. Was not happy with some of the hose quality, so I hit up the "parts' store circuit and got a few hoses from advanced auto. It's funny you bring up the Tees at the firewall, I couldn't get them loose at the time, and I was afraid of to put any force on the heater core outlet and inlet. My 2000 has radiator style clamps that connect the hose to those fittings, so I left them in place for now. I will be buying the aluminum fittings and appropriate tool for opening those connections. A few years back I helped a buddy change out the heater core in an 02 suburban. Not sure we did it by the book, but we pulled most of the dash apart to get the core out.. I used a shop vac to pull anti freeze out of block and heater, and then flushed twice with Distilled water. I must have had it close to empty as i used 3.5 gallons of antifreeze to fill it back up.

I do plan to be a contributor to this forum. 6 years ago I was gonna upgrade my ride. In researching a sales price, I found a lot of daily drivers with 300k + miles that were daily drivers. Then I started reading a lot of data on chevy transmissions, price of new went through the roof during and I said, I like my tahoe! Now I am trying to perform preventative maintenance before corrective maintenance is needed.

 

[Marky Dissod]

There are two small diameter hoses that route from driver side head, through the throttle body, and onto the radiator.
Any idea what they are cooling, or why they are needed? I replaced them.

During carburetion and throttle body injection, a venturi effect coupled with air under 41F, could under certain circumstances freeze the throttle body in place,
UNLESS coolant was routed through the throttle body, which keeps it HOT.

It does develop a Chevy tick when the oil is 3500 miles+, so I have been changing the motor oil at 3500 since about 60 K.
I use Mobil1, and it really seems to make a difference.
I know I could probably get more mileage out of an oil change, but I tow a boat, temperature is extremely hot in NC during summer,
and can be cold for a few months in summer.

Been using Valvoline Restore & Protect 5W30 for a lil over a year now.
After 2 oil changes @ 3000-3200 miles, my dipstick went from 'black & gold' to 'did you replace your dipstick recently?'

I see that you did a brake upgrade on yours. I am considering the later model larger rotors and calipers on the front when it gets new brakes.
I have the 16" stock wheels, and I know that I will have to put 17 or 18s on it to clear the caliper. Any experience you could share would be greatly appreciated.

It's so simple, any schmuckdiot could do it - although I did not personally install them myself.
17" or larger wheels? Check. Order front caliper BRACKETS, front calipers, front rotors & pads for a 2010 Sielverrado / Yukahurbacalade.
Install simply, as replacements - 'just put them on' is all I said to my mech. He was humbled at how easy it was, and that he was previously unaware.
Experience? Brakes went from '1st time I've ever been scared to drive any vehicle, these brakes suck @r$e!' and my riders loved me for my cowardly driving
to
these are the brakes that should have come on EVERY GM vehicle prior to 1999.

(Since I have GMT900 18" wheels, I'm interested in the GMTK2xx front brake kit upgrade.
Question is how much of the front brake caliper's outer face can be safely machined away to prevent interference against the wheels.
It'd be a bit of a coup if it were possible to machine away enough to make 17" wheels wearable ...)