1997 Yukon PRNDL indicator light issue

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Jmoore

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i have a 1997 Yukon. When I put it in Park and turn off the engine the Park indicator light on the dash stays lit up. My battery drains down and I feel like this is the reason why. Does anybody know why the light is staying on? When I rotate the key all the way back to accessory mode it goes off but of course I can’t take the key out. My battery draining is driving me nuts!
 

east302

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It looks like the transmission range switch grounds certain circuits to show the indicator light on the dash.


8630980f8472776539cd17b333bd8390.jpg

06e16e628c9559fcc49c0f62e1749d85.jpg

It gets power through the instrument cluster from fuse 20 (circuit 1020) and fuse 9 (circuits 1382 and 8). So, to me, this means that you’re getting power to the instrument cluster when you’re not supposed to.

The diagrams below show the routing. Circuit 1020 is straight from the fuse, the other two go through the headlight switch.

139dab6dd0b84b02d63c780f1333c96c.jpg

97b484e8f877a84fda73d1c833079bc8.jpg

You could remove the cluster (ignition off) and use a mulitimeter to see if you have voltage on any of the three pins from 8, 1020 or 1382.

Here’s the pinout for the cluster. I would test 7, 8 and 29 each to a ground and see if you get a voltage reading. With ignition off, there should be no voltage. The cavity/pin showing voltage would be the culprit. Or, at least, that’s what makes sense to me.

Another idea: rotate the headlight switch dimmer dial up and down with the ignition off. The PRNDL indicator shouldn’t respond unless there’s voltage.

Good luck, I hope this helps.

3ca2f24dcb3a5ee1fd00cc745540628e.jpg

387bcc2cded891a5d61cccf4626b96f4.jpg

e9a91a8dc176edbd080d33c25c0f41ea.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Jmoore

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It looks like the transmission range switch grounds certain circuits to show the indicator light on the dash.


8630980f8472776539cd17b333bd8390.jpg

06e16e628c9559fcc49c0f62e1749d85.jpg

It gets power through the instrument cluster from fuse 20 (circuit 1020) and fuse 9 (circuits 1382 and 8). So, to me, this means that you’re getting power to the instrument cluster when you’re not supposed to.

The diagrams below show the routing. Circuit 1020 is straight from the fuse, the other two go through the headlight switch.

139dab6dd0b84b02d63c780f1333c96c.jpg

97b484e8f877a84fda73d1c833079bc8.jpg

You could remove the cluster (ignition off) and use a mulitimeter to see if you have voltage on any of the three pins from 8, 1020 or 1382.

Here’s the pinout for the cluster. I would test 7, 8 and 29 each to a ground and see if you get a voltage reading. With ignition off, there should be no voltage. The cavity/pin showing voltage would be the culprit. Or, at least, that’s what makes sense to me.

Another idea: rotate the headlight switch dimmer dial up and down with the ignition off. The PRNDL indicator shouldn’t respond unless there’s voltage.

Good luck, I hope this helps.

3ca2f24dcb3a5ee1fd00cc745540628e.jpg

387bcc2cded891a5d61cccf4626b96f4.jpg

e9a91a8dc176edbd080d33c25c0f41ea.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thank you so much for the information! I picked up an instrument cluster today at the salvage yard. After I pulled a couple fuses and the voltage dropped off I'm hoping changing out the cluster will remedy the problem. If not, I'm out $50 and a little bit of time so will see from there.
 

liquify33

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Thank you so much for the information! I picked up an instrument cluster today at the salvage yard. After I pulled a couple fuses and the voltage dropped off I'm hoping changing out the cluster will remedy the problem. If not, I'm out $50 and a little bit of time so will see from there.

if it’s NOT the cluster, test the salvage one for motors/gauges as they are pricey to replace. The lights are cheap but the fuel gauge motor and a couple others are $50-ish new. That secondary circuit board behind the gear indicator is nearly priceless as well.
 
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Jmoore

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if it’s NOT the cluster, test the salvage one for motors/gauges as they are pricey to replace. The lights are cheap but the fuel gauge motor and a couple others are $50-ish new. That secondary circuit board behind the gear indicator is nearly priceless as well.


I think we figured out it is the gear switch attached to the transmission. I have my fingers crossed!
 

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