09 Denali Audio Upgrade

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

lakaw

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Posts
85
Reaction score
17
Location
Wichita, KS
Hello all. I've been lurking for a few weeks and wanted to post my upgrade components for some feedback.

My goal is to keep the interior looking completely stock, so obviously I will be using the stock HU. I also want all stock functionality ie Onstar, XM, Bluetooth, chimes, etc over the audio system. Oh and the delayed power on after you turn the ignition off.

Front components: Boston SPZ60
Rear components: Boston Pro60SE
JL Stealthbox replacing the factory Bose sub
JL Cleansweep OEM Interface
JL Cleansweep Signal Summing Interface (I'm not sure I need this, but my installer said I would)
JL HD900/5 amp

The Boston SPZ's are rated at 150w RMS with 3 ohm impedance. The Pro60SE's are rated at 125w RMS, also with 3 ohm impedance. The Stealthbox 10w1v2-4 is rated at 300w RMS. Hopefully I picked the right amp, but I'm not positive. The HD900/5 will output 75w RMS X 2 @ 3 ohms for the front and rear channels with 500w RMS X 1 @ 4 ohms for the sub.

I was hoping to remove the Bose amp and install the HD900/5 in it's place. My installer spoke with JL and they recommended that I leave that amp as is. I don't know, maybe they plan on using it for the center and rear D-pillar speakers.

Has anyone done anything similar?

I have Captains Chairs in the second row, so I was planning on mounting the amp on either side. Under the second row is a flimsy feeling, shallow, carpeted cover. Does anyone know if I can cut a hole in that to recess the amp slightly while giving me a firm base to mount the amp to?

And what about speaker wiring? Would I really benefit from new runs? Or is the factory wiring satisfactory?
 

blueflamed03

Elite Member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Posts
8,399
Reaction score
32
Location
Oklahoma
keep the amp and they will run a LOC to the new JL amp. I'd run all new wire from the amp to the speakers. Factory wire get's 'by', but with what your doing why skimp there. Another thing I suggest, is while door panels are off, put a sound deadner in the door. It will really quiten the inside, which helps in any system.

Welcome to the site, about 1.5 hour south of ya in Stillwater! :cheers:
 
OP
OP
lakaw

lakaw

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Posts
85
Reaction score
17
Location
Wichita, KS
what is a LOC? Line out converter? I thought that's what the JL cleansweep was for? I'll be sure to run new speaker wire. Thanks for the feedback. Keep it coming guys...
 

blueflamed03

Elite Member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Posts
8,399
Reaction score
32
Location
Oklahoma
correct, the Cleansweep will do the LOC (a basic LOC can be used to convert to an aftermarket amplifier, not have the detail of the CW, but cheaper) conversion.
 
OP
OP
lakaw

lakaw

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Posts
85
Reaction score
17
Location
Wichita, KS
Install is complete... Need to do some tweaking, but much better sound than stock. I had to go with PRO60's up front as well due to a nationwide backlog on the SPZ's (WTF?).

Anyone want to buy my 3 week old factory sub, F & R door speakers and A-Pillar tweets?
 
OP
OP
lakaw

lakaw

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2009
Posts
85
Reaction score
17
Location
Wichita, KS
How do you like the JL Stealthbox? Thinking about getting one myself.

I like it... Much better than stock, but don't expect too much. I had to put little felt pads in several places in the cup holder and change tray to minimize the vibrating plastic parts.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
137,724
Posts
1,990,479
Members
102,714
Latest member
briannorris
Back
Top