07 tahoe no cats, o2 simulators or pcm tune

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ta07hoe

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just picked up an 07 tahoe that had the inside of the cats knocked out. the thing stinks and smells like fuel. super rich smell not like a properly running no cat car. while i figure out what i want to do exhaust wise i would like to get the light off to i can pass inspection since the truck has no sticker on it. nj is big on stopping you without a sticker. i have found info on making simulators for older trucks, 06 and older but none for the 07 and up. i also cant find any for sale. years ago i got a set for my mustang when i did exhaust on that and 10 years later they are still going good. i have also found another people saying use 2 no foul adapters threaded into each other and that should space it out enough from the pipe to work. my friend has the hp tuning softwear for his car but i would have to pay $100 to license the ecm through them, and i dont want to do that if i just end up gettign a bb tune if i do longtubes. any help is appreciated.
 

sumo

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Blackbear tune is your best bet. Delete the rear 02. What's the codes? I have rears deleted, long tubes. With carted y section and mines on the rich side due to the supercharger setup. No lights
 

Tonyrodz

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just picked up an 07 tahoe that had the inside of the cats knocked out. the thing stinks and smells like fuel. super rich smell not like a properly running no cat car. while i figure out what i want to do exhaust wise i would like to get the light off to i can pass inspection since the truck has no sticker on it. nj is big on stopping you without a sticker. i have found info on making simulators for older trucks, 06 and older but none for the 07 and up. i also cant find any for sale. years ago i got a set for my mustang when i did exhaust on that and 10 years later they are still going good. i have also found another people saying use 2 no foul adapters threaded into each other and that should space it out enough from the pipe to work. my friend has the hp tuning softwear for his car but i would have to pay $100 to license the ecm through them, and i dont want to do that if i just end up gettign a bb tune if i do longtubes. any help is appreciated.
Be careful. Just because your check engine light is off, it'll still store the code. I live in NJ and I used to do inspections at a state inspection facility. After clearing the code, you have to do what they call a drive cycle. Now I'm going by what I learned in the training class given by the state. Drive cycle can be anywhere from 50-200 miles, guess it depends on the manufacturer of the vehicle. Once that drive cycle is complete and the check engine light doesn't come back on, then you're good. I can't tell you how many people came in with no check engine lights on that would fail because of stored codes.
 

sumo

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It's not stored codes that make you fail. It's obd readiness. You are correct about drive cycle. After clearing. Code you have to drive until the monitors are ready. You can pass if you only have one not ready usually evap. Pending dtcs are fail unless it commands the mil to be on. I am a state inspector for the state of Ri and I'm pretty sure NJ uses the same protocol and software we use
 

Tonyrodz

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YES! You are correct Sumo. It's been a few years since I've worked there. My memory sux!!
 
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ta07hoe

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i know how readiness monitor works and going through inspection isn't a problem as long as the lights off and the inspection machine doesn't notice it's had the rear o2's turned off if I go that route.

Blackbear tune is your best bet. Delete the rear 02. What's the codes? I have rears deleted, long tubes. With carted y section and mines on the rich side due to the supercharger setup. No lights
All o2's and cats I think the prior owner knocked the insides out. Put at temp gun on them and in and out temps the same. I'm probably just going to use my friends hp tuner soft wear if the anti foul spacer thing doesn't work
 

Tonyrodz

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Not yet. Still working on my swap, but I will. Gotta get the steel brake lines yet.
 
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ta07hoe

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Drilled one out with a 1/2 inch bit threaded the o2 into that then into an undrilled one. Used the tech 2 cleared codes and both rear 02 were hardly moving so I put in one and that side is good now just have to wait till Monday for another. Parts department only had one in stock so we'll see how it goes
 

Tonyrodz

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View attachment 70034 Drilled one out with a 1/2 inch bit threaded the o2 into that then into an undrilled one. Used the tech 2 cleared codes and both rear 02 were hardly moving so I put in one and that side is good now just have to wait till Monday for another. Parts department only had one in stock so we'll see how it goes
Let us know how it works out.
 

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Should be ok with them. I have a set of the simulators but they are for my 97. I ordered them right from Jegs and a year later I went to order another set and they were gone. Called Jegs with part number and he told me that they no longer carry them due to EPA restrictions. Told me to consider myself lucky to have gotten a set when I did because they didn't carry them long.

Only reason for the rear O2 sensor is to monitor efficiency of cat. I didn't know you could get away with getting them out of flow until my brother did it on his Lancer EVO. He passed so I can't see why you won't. But reading my O2 sensors with simulators, they swing from rich to lean over and over. I thought that's what they did to simulate efficient cats but I guess just staying low would also work. Obviously they do.

X3 on the drive cycle. May be better off not clearing codes and seeing if the light will go off on its own after a few drive cycles. That'll tell you it won't pop back on while driving to testing lanes or worse yet, while your in line. Good luck.
 
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ta07hoe

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Should be ok with them. I have a set of the simulators but they are for my 97. I ordered them right from Jegs and a year later I went to order another set and they were gone. Called Jegs with part number and he told me that they no longer carry them due to EPA restrictions. Told me to consider myself lucky to have gotten a set when I did because they didn't carry them long.

Only reason for the rear O2 sensor is to monitor efficiency of cat. I didn't know you could get away with getting them out of flow until my brother did it on his Lancer EVO. He passed so I can't see why you won't. But reading my O2 sensors with simulators, they swing from rich to lean over and over. I thought that's what they did to simulate efficient cats but I guess just staying low would also work. Obviously they do.

X3 on the drive cycle. May be better off not clearing codes and seeing if the light will go off on its own after a few drive cycles. That'll tell you it won't pop back on while driving to testing lanes or worse yet, while your in line. Good luck.

Takes 40 drive cycles to clear codes so I'm not waiting for that lol. Cleared and light came back for my b2s2 since it's stuck at 200-212mv in open or closed loop. Driver side reacts and reads fine now. Smell of raw fuel is a lot less and now it just smells like something with no cats and a little extra fuel lol. I like the sound of it but since it's a daily and I'm not in high school anymore I'll probably be putting cats in it and keep it stock, maybe just remove the resonator at the end and add a nice tip
 
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ta07hoe

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Let us know how it works out.

I changed the other rear 02 cleared the codes but I need to buy cats. Light was off for a while but ended up coming back. And i don't want to smell of no cats on my daily driver
 
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ta07hoe

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So I ordered this off amazon and this is what showed up. ordered it yesterday at 12:45pm and it was on my doorstep by 6pm tonight. Shipping said I'd have it next wed so I'm super impressed, it beat the gaskets here. I saw it on the steps and it's so ugly I wanted to hit it with a stick and tell them take it back, but for 325$ I guess I should have expected this. I'm just disappointed in the bends and diameter changes in the pipe. When I get the stock one out and have them side by side I'll decide if I send it back and spend 2x the money or just run this and hope it lasts, or fails before the warrantee expires.
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