The connector behind the glovebox should be C200, but check the wire colors to see if it matches:
Glancing through the circuits, it’s largely transmission mounted controls but I see one circuit for the brake switch. It’d be worth checking the wiring on that - does the gear indicator show...
You bring up a good point about air leaks.
phatz_hatz, if the dash vents are selected does air leak out from the center floor vent? The dampers have a rubber perimeter seal that eventually rots away and causes air to leak out. That definitely decreases air flow from the dash vents.
The...
If the face of the evaporator is clean as mentioned above, then it’s probably as good as it gets. The next generation truck had much better airflow than these. I usually just keep the passenger vents closed on mine to get a bit more cfm on my side.
Not sure if this will help since mine is a 98, but the airbag impact sensor is behind the grille. There’s a connector right at the firewall. The picture isn’t the best, but I drew where the wires go.
Here’s a link where someone talks about the doors:
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/what-doors-will-work.40301/
Best bet - get the parts from an 88-94 truck or SUV rather than a 95+ to avoid extra work due to minor differences.
Here’s a video on the Coverlay panels (with viewer comments), maybe it’ll give you an idea of how they look. The ones in the video are gray, but it’s hard to tell how close the color match is to the dash.
Just a heads up, some distributors will come with a long hold-down clamp that goes around the shaft. These fix the position which prevents you from setting the CMP offset. So, save your factory clamp and use that instead.
Just making sure, you had the temperature dial in the “max” detent when checking for voltage? And the vacuum line from the solenoid to the PCV fitting is intact?
Here’s the diagram for a 99 350, the yellow/black should be for the #6 injector. To me, it sounds like it may be grounding out between the injector harness and VCM. Maybe disconnect both ends and check for continuity (one probe to a ground, the other probe to one end of the wire). Jiggle it...
Was it doing it before the distributor cap was replaced? Delco caps don’t give me issues, but I’ve had single-cylinder misfires of new parts store brand caps before. A spark tester on plug #6 wouldn’t hurt - see how spark quality compares with the others.
Have you done a coolant pressure test...
He may have messed up the shift cable, there’s a clip on the side of the transmission that has to be pushed in to keep it right. Here’s the adjustment procedure…
GM called it a rear bumper filler and had two part numbers for it:
15680493 (black) and 15160516 as paint to match, so it was presumably a matte finish black or something. It’s almost certainly discontinued from GM unless a dealer can find one in stock somewhere. Otherwise, it’d be a salvage...
Good deal, glad you got it sorted out.
As for the TBI on the box, technically ours had the central fuel injection versus TBI on 95 and under models. Those may not have had a threaded fitting on the line for testing. Instead, I think you had to splice into the fuel line at the filter or...
What are the temperatures of the two hoses before and after the valve? Hoses number 1, 10, 16 and 18 in the image below…
10 and 18 are the outlet, so they would be the same temperature if the valve is not obstructed. Same thing for 1 and 16.
It’s been a couple of years, but I did one on a 2008 and put a socket over the zerk fitting and tapped it up. I don’t remember it being a super loose fit. The nut at the top didn’t really have to draw it up then.
Here’s the Cunningham part…
https://cunninghammachine.com/heavy-duty-chevrolet-gmc-88-98-truck-door-pin-rollers/
It works well and uses a bolt through the top to keep it in place. Otherwise (with the GM factory style) you have to peen or weld the end at the top to keep it from sliding down.
By this, it sounds like the valve is partially closed and bypassing if both hoses before the valve were hot with one after it not. It closes when the A/C temp dial is set to the MAX cold detent. When open, the metal stem at the bottom of the valve is down.
Yes, the last numbers are just circuit numbers. I don’t see a connector pinout and they didn’t number the connector so I guess there isn’t one.
I’m unsure if the 12V is always hot or not, unless someone unplugged the other end from the radio? Here are the preceding pages, but they don’t...
The spring wasn’t sold separately, so you’d need the whole latch. Here are the GM part numbers, but it’s surely a salvage yard find by now unless a dealer can find one.
The latch isn’t the same as those used on pickup tailgates, but it is the same part for any 92-00 K-Blazer, Tahoe...
Couple of things to check that have leaked on mine besides the cowl screw…
1. Antenna wire grommet that goes through the firewall under the HVAC box
2. The rubber bellows between the body and the door which has the door wiring in it. Pop the triangle shaped trim piece on the floor kick...
For what it’s worth, here’s the page from the 1998 manual. It doesn’t mention the 2-door or why any of them without rear air wouldn’t have the same capacity as a pickup since they, presumably, have the same a/c system.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.