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  1. D

    Belt chirp…

    So I replaced tensioner- sound changed but was still there. Had someone else look at it. He scrubbed the pulleys with a wire brush- specifically the drive shaft pulley which had an accumulation- and changed belt (other was three months old). Sounds perfect now. Hopefully this will last a while.
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    Belt chirp…

    M i looked for gator back as well- I believe you can only find expensive old stock on eBay…??
  3. D

    Belt chirp…

    I think I will try to get an ac Delco and see what happens
  4. D

    Belt chirp…

    Water pump pulley edge is bare metal. Definitely a lip where paint meets metal. I added tension to belt while running and squeal stops. Also rubbed soap on grooved side stops the noise.
  5. D

    Belt chirp…

    The water pump edge is bare metal- but t it is a 2011. I also changed out the ac belt two months ago. No tensioner on AC on this model.
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    Belt chirp…

    10-4. I will look at that next… Funny thing- I did pull out on the tensioner with the engine running and the squeal goes away. Perhaps there is not enough tension. Also, adding bar soap to groove side quiets it down completely.
  7. D

    Belt chirp…

    Love this old thing. But this belt is maddening. In the past 12 months I have replaced water pump, alternator, belt, tensioner, and idler. I wiped all pulleys clean, including filing down the tooling lines in the tensioner grooves. Spraying soapy water or wd40 around idler pulley quiets it...
  8. D

    AFM not working

    Following up- bad at reading the dipstick with this relatively clean oil I guess. Drained the pan and I was around 4.5 quarts (outside of the quart of flush I ran). Pressure was back up from 20 up near 30 range at idle and 38-40 at speed, plus afm engaged as expected.
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    AFM not working

    So I hadn’t been able to get it in 4 mode, until just now… coasting at 60mph, it wouldn’t come on. However, if I briefly feathered the gas while coasting it would come on until additional pedal was applied. I think the low pressure might be an issue. If the first hash is 20psi, it isn’t going...
  10. D

    AFM not working

    Tahoe stuck lifter forgot to mention- he did replace the rear main seal while he was in there. I am wondering if I lost a little oil and now have oil pressure just below op range needed for AFM but not low enough for oil Pressure warning?
  11. D

    AFM not working

    I don’t think they did per my conversation with shop- wouldn’t complain- should I worry about a stuck lifter situation now?
  12. D

    AFM not working

    Recently had my transmission rebuilt, works great. However, now my 4 cylinder mode doesn’t work when I cruise at low speed. Not necessarily a bad thing, but what factors could have impacted this? The transmission was reflashed and I suppose it is still in learning mode also?
  13. D

    Transmission advice

    There is a guy somewhat local who says he is longtime GM dealership mechanic who does rebuilds on the side. $2500 with billet converter upgrade and 1 year warranty.
  14. D

    Transmission advice

    Talked to dealership and a local reputable shop. GM warrantied one will go $5300+ either way but comes with a 100,000 transferable warranty that will be honored everywhere by dealers. They are in stock. A tranny shop rebuild will go about a $1k less with a limited warranty. The Jasper trans are...
  15. D

    Transmission advice

    2011 Tahoe LT 2wd. Had a bunch of problems. First issue came pulling a boat down a hill in towing mode. Felt like something popped during gear change but otherwise went away. My wife drove the vehicle for a couple weeks after that and complained. Was hard shifting into reverse also had some...
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    Slip yoke/shudder

    Thanks. 190,000 miles.
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    Slip yoke/shudder

    My wife had to drive my 2011 Tahoe for a week when hers was in the shop. She complained of issues. When I drove it again, the transmission was sticking on shift and it had some serious rear end shudders and shakes. I worked on the following: -Dropped drive shaft and replaced universal joints...

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