Summit racing performance LS cam

So I would like to put this (photo should be attached) into my 2007 gmc Yukon Denali. Figured I would come to you guys and ask… what would be the best order to get this installed. I know it will take a lot of moving around and swapping other parts but what order would be best for getting it in and working the right way.

If you are asking for installation guidance, you've got a pretty big job ahead of you. I believe that Alldata.com has step-by-step instructions for minor and major work on these trucks.

Other folks will chime in with suggestions.

not step by step instructions to install that part. But more so a list of things that need to get replaced or upgraded as well that way I can get this installed. And what would be the first thing to do up to getting the cam installed

I was just told that replacing the cold air intake is the easiest thing to start with. And o did a good handful of research on it and the K&N series 63 air charger was both good for acceleration and gas mileage

Be careful with those oiled air filter systems -- they can wreak havoc with MAF sensors.

Fless said:

Be careful with those oiled air filter systems -- they can wreak havoc with MAF sensors.

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I never thought oiled air filters were worth the mess and hassle, even before all the sensors were added to cars.

It seems to me that any improvement over dry filters forces you way too high into the diminishing returns stratosphere.

joe

SeaMonster3581 said:

I was just told that replacing the cold air intake is the easiest thing to start with.
And o did a good handful of research on it and the K&N series 63 air charger was both good for acceleration and gas mileage.

Click to expand...

homesick said:

I never thought oiled air filters were worth the mess and hassle, even before all the sensors were added to cars.
It seems to me that any improvement over dry filters forces you way too high into the diminishing returns stratosphere.

Click to expand...

This.
Several hundred bucks for a 0.something-second improvement from 0-60MpH, and barely measurable MpG gains? No thanks.

ECM & TCM tune. Cam (pretty much needs ecm tuning). 3.73 or 4.10 axles. Long-tube headers & dual exhaust system.
None of those are cheap, but they're worth every penny, and deliver obvious undeniable results. Tune & axles might even make the vehicle last longer.
At least long-tube headers & dual exhaust system (not one, both) might improve MpG and always improve horses noticeably.

Aftermarket cold air intakes mostly just sound different.

Marky Dissod said:

This.
Several hundred bucks for a 0.something-second improvement from 0-60MpH, and barely measurable MpG gains? No thanks.

ECM & TCM tune. Cam (pretty much needs ecm tuning). 3.73 or 4.10 axles. Long-tube headers & dual exhaust system.
None of those are cheap, but they're worth every penny, and deliver obvious undeniable results. Tune & axles might even make the vehicle last longer.
At least long-tube headers & dual exhaust system (not one, both) might improve MpG and always improve horses noticeably.

Aftermarket cold air intakes mostly just sound different.

Click to expand...

I put long-tube headers, Turbo mufflers, and a full 2.5" dual exhaust, with a cross-over pipe, on my 4-speed '78 Z/28 when I bought it; and played with the timing.

It was punchier in normal driving, and 4th gear mileage improved from 15 to 18.

Not that it matters, but it had 3.73 gears.

joe

homesick said:

I put long-tube headers, Turbo mufflers, and a full 2.5" dual exhaust, with a cross-over pipe, on my 4-speed '78 Z/28 when I bought it; and played with the timing.
It was punchier in normal driving, and 4th gear mileage improved from 15 to 18.

Click to expand...

RESPECT.

homesick said:

Not that it matters, but it had 3.73.

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'Not that it matters'? Huh?
Pretty sure 3.73
A mid90s LT1 Buick Roadmaster sedan with 2.56 can expect a 0-60MpH time over 8.3sec.
That same mid90s LT1 Buick Roadmaster sedan with 3.08 might manage a 0-60MpH of 7.0sec with a well behaved right foot.
With 3.42 or 3.73, a 6.5sec 0-60MpH time is possible, maybe quicker with a decent pcm tune (holla@me).
OF COURSE IT MATTERS!

Marky Dissod said:

RESPECT.

'Not that it matters'? Huh?
Pretty sure 3.73
A mid90s LT1 Buick Roadmaster sedan with 2.56 can expect a 0-60MpH time over 8.3sec.
That same mid90s LT1 Buick Roadmaster sedan with 3.08 might manage a 0-60MpH of 7.0sec with a well behaved right foot.
With 3.42 or 3.73, a 6.5sec 0-60MpH time is possible, maybe quicker with a decent pcm tune (holla@me).
OF COURSE IT MATTERS!

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I was just trying to be clear that I wasn't taking that credit. If I remember right, 3.42s were common then too.

I guess it was poorly worded. (LOL, if you want to see a really poorly worded post, you'll like my 'newer doesn't mean better' post in the thread about nanny features in cars.

joe

If you installed 3.73, you deserve all the credit.
If you bought it 2ndhand with 3.73, whoever installed it gets most of the credit, but you get some too, not like you bought it with 3.42.

Marky Dissod said:

If you installed 3.73, you deserve all the credit.
If you bought it 2ndhand with 3.73, whoever installed it gets most of the credit, but you get some too, not like you bought it with 3.42.

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It was the only brand-spanking new car I ever bought. I had to pay an extra, non-refundable, $400 deposit, and order it, to get the 4-speed. I bought it from Timmons Chevrolet, for all you Pasadena, TX folks.

I'm remembering 3.73s in standards and 3.42s in automatics. Mine had 3.73s, with Positrac. I remember having to add a small amount of GM additive to the pumpkin to solve a slight noise issue. I was told it was whale oil based. IDK, but it worked.

joe

Joseph Garcia said:

If you are asking for installation guidance, you've got a pretty big job ahead of you. I believe that Alldata.com has step-by-step instructions for minor and major work on these trucks.

Other folks will chime in with suggestions.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the alldata link!

SeaMonster3581 said:

So I would like to put this (photo should be attached) into my 2007 gmc Yukon Denali. Figured I would come to you guys and ask… what would be the best order to get this installed. I know it will take a lot of moving around and swapping other parts but what order would be best for getting it in and working the right way.

Click to expand...

I just put this cam in a 01-03 6.0L which is a non AFM motor to replace a blown piston 5.3 in a 78 turbo'd vette. I opted for the summit LS6 valve springs, rebuild the heads and some port work, cam motion Delphi lifters and GM LS2 lifter trays. I just stuck the engine in the car but should have it on the road in less than a month. On a 6.0L this is a mild cam but on a 5.3 its slightly bigger. I run similar 218/228 custom cam from cam motion in another boosted 5.3 and it runs great but its in a lighter/smaller firebird. With a 5.3 in a big heavy SUV your better going with something slightly smaller (summit stage 1, Summit Torkinator, BTR Towing or Trucknorris). Something in the 200-210 intake side to keep low end power to get it moving but still rev out to 6k cleanly. I put a Summit Stage 1 HL old# 8719 which is a 209/217 with PAC1218 springs in the 5.3 I'm pulling now (with a broke piston) and it ran really good, lots of low end and still reved out to 6500 easily. Personally a LQ9 stock cam or a 200/205 cam would be all gains and no loss for this type of motor/SUV combo.

This is different than your AFM motor. You will need to make sure you replace:
Cam and new cam retaining plate
lifters Delphi or LS7 or Morel
delete AFM
I would do an oil pump melling upgrade, if your deleting AFM prob a 296 or I like to put a 295HV which is a High volume version. replace o-ring and clean pan/pickup tube well.
new timing set with correct cam gear for timing
GM MLS head gasket or BTR 5-7layer
ARP head bolts
Rebuild heads (lap valves, check valve guide clearance, new valve seals) put LS6 springs in and reuse factory locks and retainers)
replace balancer if needed, ARP crank bolt

Tune
Needs to have AFM removed/diactivated.

I used that cam last year, pretty good but I paid less

The order I did was turn off the AFM, VATS & make adjustments to the base tune to insure it would start, idle & run close to correct (Matt Sanford has videos on how to do this for most versions of LS, use a tutorial for any of the stage 2 truck cans)

It it wasn't an AFM engine you could leave the heads on & just pull the trunnions but with AFM you have to pull the heads to get the crap lifters out

Then pull the rad, move the AC condenser enough to make room without taking the lines off (you can) and then follow any of the step by steps readily available on the web for LS cam R&R

After the cams in & timed, throw it back together with new lifters & tower plugs in the AFM towers (if you had AFM) and an AFM delete valley cover which is is cheap & nice but not necessary

While the heads are off remove the broken exhaust bolts (you will have some) and use all new exhaust manifold bolts on reassembly, also change the valve springs to the beehive springs that are good to 550 lift

It will start & run pretty good at that point, so you can drive it to a good tuner to dial it in perfect or play with the tune yourself if your someone that likes to learn such things