Air/no-air suspension on Yukon XL for pulling Toy Hauler?

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ddeblois

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Hi guys,

I have a Yukon XL Denali (07) and just purchased a toy hauler RV (29 ft) which from what I can see, has a tongue weight of 1200lbs. My shocks are shot and the compressor for my air suspension is also not working. Didn't bother me before but now with the Toy Hauler, I need to do something. It looks like replacing the air suspension would be quite costly. Any of you know if just changing the shocks and the putting it harder coils will be enough to carry that weight? Right now, the truck is hanging quite low in the back when pulling the RV. I would like it to look normal...
 

Tahoe14

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You may want to post in the 07 section as this is the 15/16 section. Good luck.
 

undertaker

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are you using weight distribution? makes a huge difference.

I'd say put regular shocks off a non air ride suburban/XL onto the truck, or get your air ride working.

Airbags in the coil springs could help you for when you have the trailer on it, but weight distribution should be your first step.
 
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ddeblois

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I do have weight distribution bars. My big question is whether hard coils and regular shocks will be enough to lift the back end back up or if I should investigate air suspension further. I assume that if I go with air suspension, I can keep my softer coils but then need to also replace the compressor which appears to be very costly.
 

OHSIXX

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Check out Arnott industries....rear shocks and and a compressor can be had for around $550.....then you should be good. I use my air ride/auto level pulling my fishing boat and utility trailer. Its the worth the $ to fix IMO. I had a travel trailer for a little bit and the weight distribution bars made a huge difference as well.
 

scryfst

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Replacing the rear auto ride components are not that expensive. The compressor with a dryer rebuild kit and both rear shocks can be ordered for around $500.00

Regardless of fixing the rear suspension you really should not be towing that much weight with a Yukon/Tahoe. You are severely overweight. If your 1200 pound tonque weight figure is accurate, on a bumper pull tongue weight is around 10%, that's 12K of trailer and 50% more than your vehicle is rated to tow! Not to mention 1200 pounds of tongue rate exceeds class IV hitch ratings, the ball ratings and the ball mount ratings (at least anything you can pick up at the local auto store).

I'm not trying to be a dick, but I tow everyday - 20,000 plus miles a year, a 29' tag behind a yukon/tahoe is just flat unsafe. With today's legal ramifications there's no way I'd put that behind anything smaller than my Diesel F350. Even then, that truck is rated at 11.5K gvwr and 23K gcvwr. She weights 9200-9500K unloaded with fuel and three passengers + 1200 tonque wieght = 10,400 - 10,700 gvw and 22000 plus gcvw with a 12K trailer. My F350 would be within limits of the truck capacity put probably very close if not over limit on gcvwr.
 

undertaker

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I have to agree with this statement having towed with my 3/4ton heavy, halftons like my tahoe, as well as buddies 3500 and 450 diesels you probably want to look into a real truck at this point....
 
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ddeblois

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Replacing the rear auto ride components are not that expensive. The compressor with a dryer rebuild kit and both rear shocks can be ordered for around $500.00

Regardless of fixing the rear suspension you really should not be towing that much weight with a Yukon/Tahoe. You are severely overweight. If your 1200 pound tonque weight figure is accurate, on a bumper pull tongue weight is around 10%, that's 12K of trailer and 50% more than your vehicle is rated to tow! Not to mention 1200 pounds of tongue rate exceeds class IV hitch ratings, the ball ratings and the ball mount ratings (at least anything you can pick up at the local auto store).

I'm not trying to be a dick, but I tow everyday - 20,000 plus miles a year, a 29' tag behind a yukon/tahoe is just flat unsafe. With today's legal ramifications there's no way I'd put that behind anything smaller than my Diesel F350. Even then, that truck is rated at 11.5K gvwr and 23K gcvwr. She weights 9200-9500K unloaded with fuel and three passengers + 1200 tonque wieght = 10,400 - 10,700 gvw and 22000 plus gcvw with a 12K trailer. My F350 would be within limits of the truck capacity put probably very close if not over limit on gcvwr.

Thanks for your advice. However, I believe the gross weight of the trailer is 6500 lbs. Do you still believe it to be unsafe?
 

scryfst

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Thanks for your advice. However, I believe the gross weight of the trailer is 6500 lbs. Do you still believe it to be unsafe?


If the trailer is indeed only 6500 lbs LOADED (the trailer is stamped with gvwr) For conventional trailers with ball-mounted hitches the proper tongue weight is roughly 10 to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight. So: 650-975 lbs if loaded properly.

6500 lbs and those tongue weights are within reason. My 2011 rwd Denali has a tow rating of 8300 lbs and I believe the 07's where slightly less than 8000 lbs.

If you're not sure about proper loading or actual tongue weight you can purchase a tongue weight scale.
http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html?gclid=CL3ovM6zkcoCFZIWHwodTdkB7Q

If you plan on towing often, or just for personal knowledge, I would recommend you take a trip across a local truck stop scale (your county landfill will also have a scale) with your tow vehicle without the trailer and then again with the trailer (loaded as you would haul her). This way you can compute actual trailer weight, vehicle weight and gross combined weight.
 
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ddeblois

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Does your Yukon have the factory tow package (with the factory 7-way)? If so, the addition of a brake controller is a very simple 30 minute install.

I run this in my Denali when towing my trailers.
http://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html

I do have the factory tow package included already.

When I get a chance, I will go weigh the truck and trailer to see, there's a scale close by which will be convenient.

I'm leaning towards the compressor and rear shocks from Arnott but I'm wondering if, unlike the original air suspension, this one needs to be activated manually. If so, how does that work?
 
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ddeblois

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I just found that the tow rating on my Yukon XL is 7900lbs and the trailer is 6500lbs (written on a plaque on the trailer itself) and 7775 lbs is what's written on the licence plate registration for it, which probably includes a buffer of weight for what we carry. So if the trailer is loaded and weighs 7775 lbs, tongue weight should be around 780lbs (10%), then it seems I should be fine.

Am I right?
 

TowGMC

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Remember these tow ratings are WITH weight distributing, not dead weight.

I tow a 24' v-nose race car trailer probably 10,000 miles a year with my 6.2L Denali. Total towed weight, certified on a Cat scale fully loaded, is 6,700 lbs with a 900lb tongue weight. I use a Reese DualCam weight distributing platform with 1,000 lb spring bars to get the truck and trailer level. Stability-wise the Denali is fantastic towing the trailer. But from a performance standpoint the truck is barely marginal towing this much weight over long distances especially in the mountains. Until I put a big auxiliary trans cooler on my trans temps would regularly hit 250, and water temps would go way up when towing uphill at 65mph in 3rd gear. Trans cooler brought trans temps down to the 210 range when climbing but still higher than I'd like. And 6.5-7.5 mpg on premium fuel means an expensive fuel stop every 140 miles (2 hours). Oh and I've done a trans service twice- 40k and 80k- to keep the trans alive.

When my rear shocks and pump went (and with all that tongue weight they will blow out) I replaced with Arnott Bilstein air shock and their pump kit. Nice products. But with 900# tongue weight the shocks won't pump up the weight without the spring bars to level it out. OE shocks and pump wouldn't either. Too much tongue weight.

Note- the correct way to hook up a trailer when using weight distributing spring bars is to first shut off the truck so the air compressor does not turn on. Then hook up, level everything with the spring bars to get most of the tongue weight minimized. Then as a last step start the truck and let the airbags air up. This method lets the spring bars do the weight lifting and the air bags just supplement.
 

scryfst

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I can't see towing that much trailer and weight with my Denali. As you stated, she's marginal at best! And this is coming from someone that has taken the proper steps to properly maintain and prepare their vehicle to reliably get from point a to b. We haul the bikes and quads often, all enclosed trailers, and anytime we need more trailer than 14'-16' the Yukon is reduced to people moving.

My son and I just picked up another trailer in GA this past Friday. 1500+ mile round trip. 760 unloaded and 760 pulling a empty, enclosed 7x14 with a 2'V. Averaged close to 18mpg going down and around 8 on the return... ouch! Fill ups every 200 miles makes for a lengthy trip and precisely why i also own a one ton diesel.
 

TowGMC

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Which is why I also have a GMC 2500HD Denali with a Duramax/Allison. Where the Yukon Denali struggles to pull mountains at 50mph and 7mpg, the Duramax pulls every grade at 75 with ease and gets 15mpg doing it. But for more local races, <100 miles away, when I need the seating of the SUV with family along, I use the Yukon.
 

scryfst

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Which is why I also have a GMC 2500HD Denali with a Duramax/Allison. Where the Yukon Denali struggles to pull mountains at 50mph and 7mpg, the Duramax pulls every grade at 75 with ease and gets 15mpg doing it. But for more local races, <100 miles away, when I need the seating of the SUV with family along, I use the Yukon.

I understand exactly where your coming from and precisely why I also own a diesel (F350, 4x4, crew cac, long box). The Yukon is a great vehicle! Imo, just not the ideal choice for mountain or heavy towing.
 
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ddeblois

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I understand exactly where your coming from and precisely why I also own a diesel (F350, 4x4, crew cac, long box). The Yukon is a great vehicle! Imo, just not the ideal choice for mountain or heavy towing.

I don't necessarily plan on doing that much mileage with it not do I have specific intention to climb tall mountains. I'd say it's more for traveling to locations within 3-400 miles a 5-10 times a year. It seemed to do fine when I drove it home from 2.5 hours away after purchasing the trailer. Of course it was empty then but still...
 

ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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I just found that the tow rating on my Yukon XL is 7900lbs and the trailer is 6500lbs (written on a plaque on the trailer itself) and 7775 lbs is what's written on the licence plate registration for it, which probably includes a buffer of weight for what we carry. So if the trailer is loaded and weighs 7775 lbs, tongue weight should be around 780lbs (10%), then it seems I should be fine.

Am I right?
keep in mind GM Ford and Dodge are notorious for overrating there vehicles
also alotta people tend to forget and dont take into consideration passenger weight and the amount of luggage or whatever loaded into the cargo area
also dont people tend to forget to dump there grey water and sewer and they fill up there water tanks before they leave
 

Yukon John

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Check out Arnott industries....rear shocks and and a compressor can be had for around $550.....then you should be good. I use my air ride/auto level pulling my fishing boat and utility trailer. Its the worth the $ to fix IMO. I had a travel trailer for a little bit and the weight distribution bars made a huge difference as well.

+1 on Arnott...I used them to rebuild the rear Air Suspension on my 05 Escalade ESV...less than $600.

With 1200 # tongue weight you need to get an equalizing hitch...I'm running 600# on my Yukon and I think the limit is abot 750#.
 

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