Tahoe won't turn over, Gauges wacky and no locks

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jwaldo432

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Ok so I came home from work and the tahoe started just fine but when I tried to get back out...Nothing. The key fob will hardly lock the doors, same with the locks on the door. The Interior lights dim and flicker. When I put the key in the Ignition the chime comes on fine but when I turn to run or try to start, all the electronics turn off and the check engine light flashes. When I take the key out the gauges move and reset. All my grounds are good. Does this sound like a BCM issue or something else?
 

scoobyxj

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Sounds like a dead, or bad battery connection to me...
 
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jwaldo432

jwaldo432

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Battery tested out fine, All the connections I could find are tight and free of corrosion. Any other Ideas?
 

ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)

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yeah i checked and i was mistaken if the pcm is bad the vehicle in most cases wont start along with all the other symptoms your seeing
so it sounds like you probably got a bad PCM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rudYtZUahQ
here is a youtube video of what happens
i also did a quick search on prices and they range from 1 to 200 dollars
 
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Gzes

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What if you jump the battery and try to start. I had the same problem on a Honda. The battery was too weak even when supposedly charged
 
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jwaldo432

jwaldo432

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yeah i checked and i was mistaken if the pcm is bad the vehicle in most cases wont start along with all the other symptoms your seeing
so it sounds like you probably got a bad PCM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rudYtZUahQ
here is a youtube video of what happens
i also did a quick search on prices and they range from 1 to 200 dollars

PCM or BCM (Body Control Module?).

---------- Post added at 06:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:54 AM ----------

What if you jump the battery and try to start. I had the same problem on a Honda. The battery was too weak even when supposedly charged

Bettery tested fine with a load tester, Im gonna try and jump the relay to see if it is a problem eslewhere or If the car cranks then I know im on the right track....hopefully.
 

ScottyBoy

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Seen this same issue on several other truck forums. One guy said it turned out to be his BCM, but just about every other thrad I've seen it ended up being a bad ground. There is a ground point on the drivers side frame rail under the drivers door area. This point gets loose and/or corroded over time and ends up causing issues like you have. Engine will not start or it only starts sometimes, cluster goes crazy, and doorlocks go crazy.
I would at least inspect and clean that ground point before paying a shop to test the BCM or anything. I'd also look for any other grounds that might be corroded, especially if you live up north where they use salt on the roads, or go off-roading and get mud on your undercarriage.
 
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jwaldo432

jwaldo432

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Seen this same issue on several other truck forums. One guy said it turned out to be his BCM, but just about every other thrad I've seen it ended up being a bad ground. There is a ground point on the drivers side frame rail under the drivers door area. This point gets loose and/or corroded over time and ends up causing issues like you have. Engine will not start or it only starts sometimes, cluster goes crazy, and doorlocks go crazy.
I would at least inspect and clean that ground point before paying a shop to test the BCM or anything. I'd also look for any other grounds that might be corroded, especially if you live up north where they use salt on the roads, or go off-roading and get mud on your undercarriage.

Just checked all my grounds again and they all checked out. Im going to see if the ignition switch is the issue since now when i Take the key out the radio still stays on.
 
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jwaldo432

jwaldo432

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when you take the key out and get out of the vehicle the radio stays on untill the dome light goes off

Before all this happened the radio would turn off if the keys are out of the ignition and the door opens. The Ignition switch tested fine so I ordered a BCM off ebay (same part number as my current one) and I am going to try this and see if it will work

30 Minute Learn Procedure:

1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON, vehicle will not start.
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after aproximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
5. Repeat steps 1-4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes, the vehicle is now ready to relearn the PASSLOCK sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.

Important:
The vehicle learns the PASSLOCK Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.

7. With a scan tool (like the ones you buy at autozone) clear any DTC's (trouble codes) if needed. DTC's will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.
 

The 'ER

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I had a similar issue and I pulled battery cables and let all memories die and pulled all relays. Only thing I found was corrosion on some of the contacts. Cleaned them all up and never had a problem since. It has to be a bad connection somewhere.
 
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jwaldo432

jwaldo432

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So After all this....It was the battery. It tested fine on my load tester and tested fine on NAPA's load tester. Went ahead and swapped it and BAM! everything works fine. Any ideas why the battery would test fine on 2 different testers and then not work in the Tahoe? Thought it might be the connections and in the mist of swapping the battery they got corrected but I don't know. Glad the problem is fixed. Thanks as always for all y'alls help!!!
 

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