Flex-a-lite Elec Fans OBS write up :)

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AtomicHoe094

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Hey man, bout it brand new off craiglist for 200 bucks, MSRP 550bucks. Everything was in a set, no need for anything besides basic tools. Shop over the internet. cheapest way..
 

MotRhead

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is there a 12v switched wire that you can tap into under the hood? im just about ready to pull the trigger on my set up but cant find a wire to get switched power from under the hood
 

97yukon

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im now running e-fan and am also wondering about the overdrive pulley....how much and how affective is it. should i change the under drive pulley also.
 
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AtomicHoe094

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is there a 12v switched wire that you can tap into under the hood? im just about ready to pull the trigger on my set up but cant find a wire to get switched power from under the hood

i actually went to my headunit, i was in your position and needed something fast, and there it was, i should actually pull it out and find a better one tho.. let me know what you get.. ost some pics on here man!!


im now running e-fan and am also wondering about the overdrive pulley....how much and how affective is it. should i change the under drive pulley also.

hey man, well i have the stock pulley on the alternator. My alternator is taking a dump, but yet i can still drive ti around all week and be fine, it just sits at like 13volts. i honestly couldnt tell ya when either or pulley would be needed.. sorry
 

sparg93

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I know this is an old post...but when it comes to removing the existing fan on our rigs, all i literally need to do is take off the blades? Did you leave the shaft the blades were attached to inside the pulley?
 
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AtomicHoe094

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the clutch is attached to the fan blades. Just take that whole assembly off.. Keep the pulley on and put the nuts back onto the pulley or else the pulley will come off while driving.
 

sparg93

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Got it - thanks Atomic!!

Also, some info on over/under drive pulleys (there is a LOT more on the web)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Underdrive_pulleys
http://www.ehow.com/about_6063472_problems-underdrive-pulley-sets.html

Underdrive increases HP and slows down the power to your accessories. Overdrive decreases HP and increases power to accessories. I've seen some guys that have underdriven their cars for YEARS without issue. If you're running a lot of accessories like our rigs typically do (lights, fans, sound, etc), do NOT UNDER drive your ALTERNATOR pulley or you will run into problems with charging issues.


Just my two cents, hope it helps someone :)
 

99Yuk

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...

Underdrive increases HP and slows down the power to your accessories. Overdrive decreases HP and increases power to accessories. I've seen some guys that have underdriven their cars for YEARS without issue. If you're running a lot of accessories like our rigs typically do (lights, fans, sound, etc), do NOT UNDER drive your ALTERNATOR pulley or you will run into problems with charging issues.


Just my two cents, hope it helps someone :)

+1

That's why the kit I got comes with the overdrive pulley for the ALT. Keeps it running at stock rpms.

I've got a link to it somewhere...
 

Monstar_est87

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So let me get this right... Under drive pulley on the motor and overdrive pulley on the alt will keep a stock like balance..? Makes sense...
Atomic- beautifully done...
 

sparg93

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has anyone heard of damaging their alternator by OVER driving?
 

sparg93

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wish i had more....just thinking if Chevy wanted to overdrive their alts in the first place, why didn't they??
 
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AtomicHoe094

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I guess you have to stop somewhere. They didnt need the boost since im sure they didnt have a bunch of amp draw.
 

sparg93

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Atomic - i can always tell when you jump online...

any idea if the pulley on the hydra power steering pump is large then our stock steering pumps? (i'm wondering if i need a different sized serpentine belt)
 
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AtomicHoe094

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hahahaa im bout to peace out soon

No idea maynee. you can go to the parts store and check it out and measure one before ya buy.. Im sure it would be the same thing.

also, interested in a msd 6A box? i know you were looking to do the msd setup.. i have the box and harness already to go 125shipped.
 

YenkoZL1

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I know this is an old post but these fans draw as much as 29amps additional load on the electrical system. Most factory Alts on these tahoes are good for 105amp total. And there is typically a 10% buffer for any additional electrical draw(10amp cushion). The 105amp Alt puts out 85amps at "IDLE." So, just buying a 180amp Alt isn't going to necessarily fix the draw issue if it's Idle amperage is 85amps or less. That additional 29amp load will draw when your vehicle is at idle. So you need an Alt that will handle your max electrical load at idle as well. Your factory Alt is meant to handle all stock accessories when on at once at max power. So, factory Alt 105amp and say you add these fans which draw 29amps(they will draw full amperage pretty consistantly) so you need an Alt that not only has a max Output of 134amps or more but it needs to have an idle amperage of 134amps as well. Most aftermarket Alt companies dont disclose their idle amperage numbers. If your Alt is 180amps but has an idle amperage of 85amps then these fans will draw against your electrical system and cause issues.

I have a DC Power Alt, 190Amps max but puts out 135amps at hot idle. 140amps at Cold Idle.

I basically added up all amperage draws from additional accessories installed and future additions (stereos, lights, etc..) Came to about 80amps additional, added this on top of factory Amperage so a total of 185...went will the 190amp Alt to be safe.

I mention this b/c I bought a beefed up Alt from Power Master when I 1st installed these fans and I still had a crazy draw at idle. This caused the wires from the fans to get hot and melt and drained my battery. Went to DC Power website and learned about the importance of idle amperage.

Didnt mean to ramble
 

tlamot01

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Question about Flex-A-Lite wiring

I swapped my stock fan for a Flex-A-Lite dual fan configuration a long time ago. However, I'm concerned about how these fans cycle on and off. My radiator must be taking some serious abuse going through these rapid heating and cooling cycles. Since the stock GM radiator is prone to failing already, I can't see how cycling fans will increase their reliability.
My question for members is:
I would like to have one of the two fans running all the time (engine on) at a lower RPM. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this setup by using a relay and resistor to achieve a constant 10V input to one fan. The relay would be used to switch to the full power dual fan configuration when necessary or when the A/C is running. If someone has tried this, what type and size resistor should I be using?
Thanks in advance...
 

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