fed up with this thing (searched)

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joyride

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new here, i searched for 10 minutes or so and read a few threads to diagnose my mom's 99 4wd yukon. The problem is a couple weeks ago, her battery she's had in in it for about a year and a half, died randomly. It was under warranty, so we had it exchanged 2 weeks and 2 days ago. lol...Well this morning it wouldn't start again. Battery voltage was at 2.30 volts. Pathetic. This thing is bone stock besides an ugly ass aftermarket cd player and some speakers, just normal speakers, no subs or amps.

The starter is about a year old, long story but we replaced that ourself. The alternator is good, tested 3 times today, and it has battery voltage at idle, and runs up to 14.5 under 1500 rpm.

The grounds seem fine, I even cleaned a few back under the rear bumper for the hell of it. I can't find any shorts, and the grounds in the engine bay seem fine. Behind the passenger head, and on the block under the pulleys, passenger side.

A few things to note though, her driver side door latch broke, so I replaced it. That's the latest thing we've done so thinking maybe there was a short, possibly I pulled on a wire or one got caught up somewhere...I pulled the door panel off earlier today, and all the wiring seems fine. Then that's when I cleaned the grounds. Also, about a week ago at night when my mom had came home, her dash lights and taillights didn't work..So I pulled the fuses looking at random ones and I don't remember which, but it was blown. Replaced it and the lights came back on and worked fine.

THat's what led me to cleaning up the grounds near the taillights thinking it had a bad ground but I don't know, it could be too early to tell if that helped at all??

Also, the alternator to battery wire has no resistance so that's good, haven't checked the battery ground or the starter wire but I will I guess. Other than that, I don't really know wtf to check. The starter, battery, and alternator are all relatively new.

On my search I read something about the BCM leaving power on to something and draining the battery when the car is parked and not running? Are there any service bulletins at the GMC/Chevy dealerships for common problems with these things? I called a starter and alternator place and the guy I talked to, said one of his neighbors has a Yukon and kinda had the same issues, battery dying and what not. He said that his AC relay went bad or something?? I don't know exactly what that would have to do with the battery, but I pulled the relay out for the time being just to be safe. Any thoughts on that??

Sorry for the novel but I'm highly frustrated. I'd appreciate any help, thanks in advance!!


edit : ALSO, i forgot...the ac/heater only work on one preset, i think it's either #3 or #4 or whatever....I was told by someone once that the blower resistor or something like that gets corroded and needs replaced. Is that possibly the culprit maybe? And at the same time, possibly what the guy at the starter shop was trying to explain but couldn't remember exactly? Thanks again!
 

SunlitComet

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:welcome:

Mark by amperage all the fuses in under hood block and remove them and relays. With the battery charged use an ammeter rated for at least ten amps and put the probe terminals on each set of fuse terminals and look for amperage draw. With doors closed and key removed. Start with that.

Oh and also make sure there is no bulb in the hood light and make sure the one on the firewall is turned off as well.

---------- Post added at 04:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 PM ----------

Unless your blower fan is running with the key removed worry about that after dealing with the dead battery issue.
 

Uderro1

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I had a similar problem where I had to jump my 96 hoe all the time. It was a bad starter. It had to much draw and drained the battery while it was sitting. I know if the diodes on the voltage regulator go bad the allow a back feed from the battery and drain the battery.
 
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joyride

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Sorry I was gone all day after posting. Thank you for your responses already.

Sunlitcomet, we can give that a try after I get off work tomorrow.
Uderro1, we do have a fairly new starter but that doesn't mean it's not defective or bad, we'll look into that some more also. Also, the voltage regulator is in the alternator right? I know on my dads 69 camaro it was on the firewall until we went to a 1 wire alternator but I wanna say these new rides have them in the alternators right? Our alternator passed 3 straight tests at Schucks today, but the guy at the starter shop told us to bring it in for further more extensive testing under load and what not, so maybe we should still do that.
Ezdaar, we don't have onstar. :) lol

Thanks again for the help so far. Hopefully we'll figure something out soon! :)

Also, about the starter issue. It is a replacement remann'ed one from the starter shop but, if it went bad wouldn't it just not work or is there more to it than that where it would create a draw?
 
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SunlitComet

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Regulator is built in to alternator. The starter would have to something touching the solenoid contact to body ground for these trucks. And you can buy Onstar for the OBS trucks now.:)
 
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joyride

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Thanks, I thought it was. I mean I guess we can take the alternator off again and have it tested more extensively at the starter shop. My dad may not be as inclined to want me to take the starter off though as we've had issues with it before. It wasn't starting after we had replaced a flexplate because it chewed a tooth off of the original and kept walking on us until we finally fixed that issue. Right now it starts fine but sounds a little rough so I'm not sure if my dad would like me messing with it. lol...We'll see though.
 

bsamoul

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Well instead of taking the starter off, just look at the wiring and make sure something isn't touching something it's not supposed to. Also, my visor lights killed my battery a few times..the cloth things around the visors got so stretched out, I folded them in the visor lights but a couple times they were open just enough to keep the lights on, and it's hard to notice unless it's dark.
 
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joyride

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Thank you! I will do just that and see what I come up with. Also will check the sun visors, lol. I wish it were that easy but shit, with our luck I just don't know. Thanks for the tip though, will definitely look into anything anyone has to say. :)
 

SunlitComet

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Also, my visor lights killed my battery a few times..the cloth things around the visors got so stretched out, I folded them in the visor lights but a couple times they were open just enough to keep the lights on, and it's hard to notice unless it's dark.


Good call I forgot that those have a direct battery feed with nothing but a fuse between them.
 
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joyride

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Actually now that I think about it, I know the passenger side sunvisor, the mirror thing is broken, so it's possible that thing is staying on. I'm tempted to just pull the fuse and say f it. lol
 

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Props to Sunlit!! Everytime i read about an issue on these forums, Sunlit always has great advise. Im sure i speak for all the DIY guys when i say thanks for helping out!
It is appreciated!
 

SunlitComet

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Actually now that I think about it, I know the passenger side sunvisor, the mirror thing is broken, so it's possible that thing is staying on. I'm tempted to just pull the fuse and say f it. lol


It is fuse number 3 but if you pull it you will loose a lot of interior lighting.
 
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joyride

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bummer. Well today I guess my parents tried going somewhere and couldn't. Apparently were out of gas and now it started back up with 2 gallons of gas. This was after I had cleaned the grounds out back, assuming one is a fuel pump ground like it is on my s10...same motor minus 2 cylinders so i assume similar fuel pump setups. With how many miles are on this thing I thought maybe the fuel pump finally went out since the gauge acts crazy but now it's better. One thing though, after the truck is turned off the gauge pegs out to the right...that isn't....normal is it? It used to shake all over and not give a good reading on the actual fuel level but now it's normal except for when it's turned off it just pegs right...Any thoughts? Oh, and it was squeaking again after not starting it for a day so I'm assuming something is still draining the battery..... :(
 

SunlitComet

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movement is not normal and exactly what was squeaking? mice?

An open in the circuit provides completely full indication but only when key is on. The pcm processes the signal from sender to pcm then sends it to gauge. So if the key is removed and it jumps to full something controlled by ignition switch is not getting shut off. Otherwise wire the spring in the gauge would fall to empty. Also the pcm is playing a roll in this so as it stands you have two issues. One, ignition switch is not shutting everything down or is shorting internally and two, something is causing the pcm to give false data signals.

Charge everything nice and neat and below the dash is a big rectangular connector undo the bolt in it with a 10mm socket and disconnect it(big one in the picture. That half is normally bracketed down but the other half has a bolt to remove and then pull it out.) and then check the battery later to see if it has drained again. By the when this is all said and done with the battery will be no good anymore as it has been killed to a point that it will not fully recover.
 
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joyride

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I meant to say the belt was squeaking since I assume the battery has been getting drained still somewhere, so upon startup the belt was squeaking but shortly after went away.

Thing is the battery died a few a weeks ago after I had just cleaned the grounds yesterday in the taillight harness and near it. I forgot to check the starter today as I kinda played around with my SS Monte instead.

So what you're saying is, unplugging that connector under the dash will just test to see if the battery is getting drained by.....what exactly? and after it's all said and done, i'll have killed the battery completely and have to go back to autozone for a 3rd time with battery issues hoping they'll exchange this one after going in this past weekend after it had been drained from installing it 2 weeks ago...?
 
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joyride

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Oh ok. But what exactly did you mean when you said "By the when this is all said and done with the battery will be no good anymore as it has been killed to a point that it will not fully recover."

I'm confused with that one. ^^
 

SunlitComet

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Bad and mis-phrasing. I was trying to say after all the really bad battery discharges it would not function normally again but seeing as how you made several trips to autozone I have gathered you have figured that out by now.
 
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joyride

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Gotcha. How many miles do you think the average ignition switch would last? With the way the gas gauge acts would you suspect it has something to do with that more than anything else? For the longest time the gauge would always act sporadic and never really give a good reading. Now after I cleaned the grounds in the back with a wire wheel the gauge seems normal and doesn't shake, except for the issue after the key is off. I'm not stuck on just the gas gauge and the ground being our issue, just curious to why it would do that all of a sudden. Does the ignition switch control that or is the fuel sending unit bad or something? Or could a wire for the fuel sending unit be bad? Like I said earlier though I didn't bother checking the starter yet but I will tomorrow after work. Can I put the digital multimeter to it and see if there is a resistance there? If so, how would I go about doing that? Grounding the negative lead, and putting the red lead, on the starter itself? or one of the wires? I'm assuming there's a purple wire in there...It's been awhile since we replaced the starter so I forget...lol

Once again though, thanks for your help!
 

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