anyone do E-fans on a obs??

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haks310

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Wheres the wiring diagram?! What temp probe did you go with? Does it trigger high speed after hitting a second temperature setting?

I've read up on the Volvo relay and guys use a dual temp thermo switch from BMW. I have an extra 3/8 port on the intake manifold I can drill out for it.

Let us know how the MPG numbers look and any performance gains.
 

sparg93

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haks - from a performance and mpg, I saw no difference on my 4dr 4x4.

Some ppl claim they have, but i have a really hard time believing a clutch driven fan sucks up 1 - 2mpg (that's what I've seen as claims).

If you think about it, our rigs average about 15mpg (just to keep the math simple). If we saw a 1.5mpg gain, that would be almost 10%!!

My truck weighs 6700lbs, I just can't see how a fan could really impact a 5.7L motor that much...but then again, if I saw real data, I coud be made a believer.

I love the e-fan mod I did. It got me working on my truck and learning a ton more about the electrical and cooling system...but changing from clutch to electric increases your potential points of failure dramatically. You are now dealing with extra wires, relays, fuses, fan motor AND a healthy draw from your alternator. And if you don't have a high output alt, an e-fan is going to put a serious strain on your existing.

I don't mean to be a downer, I think it's a cool mod, but I have not witnessed the benefits I've seen claimed.
 

qukon 95

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$17.00 adj fan control at advance auto and I wrote how to wire it in my post. And my high
spd only comes on with the AC on. There are a lot of ways to control the fan or fans it just
depends on a the application you need.
 

qukon 95

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mine is wired on the neg side sinse the volvo relay uses a neg input to trigger the relays
in it. still put a fuse on it to. And i used the big **** fuses for the fan low & high
spd wires. what kind of fan switch is it ? and it's not where there is alot of heat?
 

qukon 95

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UPDATE^^^^^^^^^ well i went to the jnk yrd and found another efan $15.00 i got
it off a 00 ford grand mar . this fan has the internal low spd resistor not like the one
i got out the 00 town car it has the ext resistor and the wires are the same color and the one i got today it unplugs from the motor. NOW i have a remote start and today it
stopped working and i had the ac on some thing told me to check the alarm start remote

fues it was melted because of the fan relay wired the on start ign wire so i put a 30 ****
fuse there so i will keep a eye on it. but other than that i love it. i think i will put that

diode between the high spd wire and ground and 2 little l.e.d lights 4 h & l spds
 

Monstar_est87

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Are you running too many amps through it and overheating it?
I have a 40 amp relay on it...

mine is wired on the neg side sinse the volvo relay uses a neg input to trigger the relays
in it. still put a fuse on it to. And i used the big **** fuses for the fan low & high
spd wires. what kind of fan switch is it ? and it's not where there is alot of heat?

Its a Hayden 3647 temperature controller (goggle it) I pickd up at O'rileys... It's mounted on my fan shroud next to the battery... Idk wat gives...
 

ezdaar

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if your melting shit STOP NOW~ and install RELAYS to keep that heavy current off those small wires and fuses!

You can and will if not done right, melt then burn down your vehical!

STOP AND RELAY this stuff NOW!
 

qukon 95

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Well these are not small wires 10 gauge wire like what's used on the fan
And relay. It's just the mini 30 fuse couldn't handle the current.
But I will do a high amp relay to get power from the battery.
 

gpracer1

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Well these are not small wires 10 gauge wire like what's used on the fan
And relay. It's just the mini 30 fuse couldn't handle the current.
But I will do a high amp relay to get power from the battery.

I went through 3 of those years ago before I figured out what was up. The deal is that you are pulling too many amps through the relay......not to many amps for the relay to handle, but it gets the whole unit too hot. The potting material starts to melt and it looks like it is kinda leaking oil.

The remedy is to run the wires that you would hook up to the fan(s) and instead hook it up to another relay....this way you move the heat off of the controller itself.

Trust me on this one, I know 100% for sure.

I had the fan wires from the unit go to 2 40 amp relays , so each fan had its own remote relay. You just wire the original controller fan wires to the relay trigger, then battery to the switched part and other pin to fan. Then run the other fan wire to ground. I hope you can understand what I am saying.
 

steamroller

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Ok u guys win... U guys gotta diagram I could use..?

You need a bigger main relay for the Taurus/Mark VII fans. I ran the Bosch part # from this article on my Taurus fan for a year or more with no issues. You already have the same temp controller so it's not a whole lot of rewiring to do. The relay is expensive but worth it, adding the diode they have listed isn't a bad idea either.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php

schematic.gif



The biggest reason I switched mine out for the dual GXP/Northstar fans was the amount of juice the Taurus fan pulled when it kicked on. That and I got tired of the amount of noise it made
 

sparg93

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this is what I used for my two sensors:
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/AM-RADIATOR-ADAPTER.html

i had them make me a custom one with x2 bungs

this is the relay kit, i personally found it to be of better quality then Ray's
http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII

scroll down to the bottom and you will see the options...i was amazed at the quality, completeness and directions with the kit...but its $$$

---------- Post added at 10:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 PM ----------



you need speed 1 to turn off when speed 2 activates otherwise you will eventually burn out the motor...i think running it your way would have both speeds on.

To "power" the fans, you are going to need relays. Check out the setup above I used, it identifies the temp sensors and relays.

THis is the expensive way to run both speeds, but it's completely automatic. The cheaper way to run both speeds is with a Volvo relay. I would have gone this route, but I couldn't figure out how to wire the damn thing up.

If you just want to run ONE speed, it's MUCH cheaper. You can get a one speed kit from Jegs/Summit that auto triggers the fan and comes with a nice temp sensor you screw into an existing temp sensor location on your engine block. As a side note, my high speed NEVER kicked it in this summer, low speed on my Lincoln fan cooled it off just fine.

Or you can get that pipe (slice out a small section of your upper radiator hose) I referenced above and mount the temp sensor in there.

Photos!!

This is the pipe with x2 sensors:
IMG_7276.jpg

IMG_7280.jpg

IMG_7287.jpg


This is the relay setup (mounted to the Volant air box)
IMG_7247.jpg

IMG_7282.jpg
 
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