I had new rotors and drums put on my '97 Tahoe 4x4 by Midas and within a short time had warping all around. Midas turned the front rotors and replaced the rear rotors a 2nd time which needed turning even as new. Having the problem again with less than 10,000 miles on the brakes. Never had this issue with GM service. Is Midas is using cheap parts or the wrong brake pads/shoes leading to this problem or is something else possibly going on?
Midas brake job problem
- Thread starter catamount
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foreverfalcon40
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Cheap parts...is what wer all use...
Either way its under warranty, bring it back and smile
I know it sucks, but how much cheaper is it compared to GM?
I'm tight for time I'll discuss this further after work.
ff40
Either way its under warranty, bring it back and smile
I know it sucks, but how much cheaper is it compared to GM?
I'm tight for time I'll discuss this further after work.
ff40
bowtiefreak
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they use crap parts. Next time save yourself a few bucks and do the install too. Brakes are pretty simple.
PH99TAHOE
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SunlitComet
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Plus the fact that they don't take the time to seat the new pads either.
Jim_Rockford
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Too much money for crappy ass service. You got charged a premium price for Cheap ass parts.
longstand
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I just learn something here..
I had the same problem as you..
i purchase a Front Rooter for my Geo Metro and the first day i had it. and install it i had a weid noise and felling while i hit the brake..
i guest its warp just like yours..
How do you fix that beside buying a new one?
Resurface it?
I had the same problem as you..
i purchase a Front Rooter for my Geo Metro and the first day i had it. and install it i had a weid noise and felling while i hit the brake..
i guest its warp just like yours..
How do you fix that beside buying a new one?
Resurface it?
SunlitComet
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you can try. Sounds like inferior metal.
longstand
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SunlitComet
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Something like that. Products made with cheap metals or where proper manufacturing processes are not followed or skipped= crappy product
thumper_ehhhhh
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When you purchase parts ask where they are made. If they say made in usa or canada ok if they are made in china odds are the metal is garbage and will warp. Return them and pay the extra for the goods stuff.
longstand
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ok. what can a person do if the Rotor is Warp?
SunlitComet
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I say chuck it.
Jim_Rockford
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How long ago did you have the work done? look on your paperwork to see how long the job is warrantied for,If it was me I'd be taking my shit back and putting my foot in someone ass. Don't waste your time trying to have em turned cause its just gonna be worse.
thumper_ehhhhh
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If its still under warrantee bring it back . If not either put up with it. Have it turned and in a few months turn it again. Or its a paper weight.
longstand
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yes. thats a problem. i purchase it at Ebay.com
argggg.
its ok. i just purchase a new one from autozone.com its only 17.00 for one Front Rotor.
damm ebay.com.
argggg.
its ok. i just purchase a new one from autozone.com its only 17.00 for one Front Rotor.
damm ebay.com.
These trucks have undersized rotors as it is, I wouldn't try to find a "bargain". Spend the money on good rotors, even if you have to spend $75.00+ each, it's worth it.
I have the original service records for my 99 since it was ordered and sold to the first owner. Factory original rotors were turned 2x and then replaced. The replacement GM rotors were then turned 2x and were somewhat "shaky" when I bought it. So that's 6x having "fresh" rotor surfaces using GM parts in 83,000 miles and they were still not right when I bought it. They would warp so quickly when starting to heat up it was ridiculous.
I threw out the factory rotors (literally) and bought Napa cross drilled/slotted rotors which have a lifetime warranty. 14,000 miles of driving on the same mountain roads and there's been zero warping, overheating or fading. Aside from that, the fact that I don't have to spend my weekend (or time off from work) screwing around with those things was worth the initial cost alone.
I have the original service records for my 99 since it was ordered and sold to the first owner. Factory original rotors were turned 2x and then replaced. The replacement GM rotors were then turned 2x and were somewhat "shaky" when I bought it. So that's 6x having "fresh" rotor surfaces using GM parts in 83,000 miles and they were still not right when I bought it. They would warp so quickly when starting to heat up it was ridiculous.
I threw out the factory rotors (literally) and bought Napa cross drilled/slotted rotors which have a lifetime warranty. 14,000 miles of driving on the same mountain roads and there's been zero warping, overheating or fading. Aside from that, the fact that I don't have to spend my weekend (or time off from work) screwing around with those things was worth the initial cost alone.
foreverfalcon40
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SunlitComet
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$17....Sounds like another failure on the way.
foreverfalcon40
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Cutting brakes on lathe actually takes skill, its not the rotor thats good its the actual mechanic doing the work.
Coo fact on the Napa Rotors, how much the set you back.
I scored D&S rotors with Ceramic Pads $113 shipped to my front door! NO PROBLEMS SO FAR!
---------- Post added at 05:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:42 PM ----------
Back to the purpose of this thread...
Ok here is the deal...
I can't speak for MIDAS at all b/c I don't know where they get thier parts from. But where I work at Sears we STOCK Wagner parts. A Sears bill will state weather we used Wagner parts or not. But either way the warranty on Wagner and Other Brakes are the same. Start at 12k, 12 months, just for pads. New Pads and Rotors is 16k, months. For an extra $35 aka Brake Fluid exhange you get 18k 18months. When you pay these prices your also paying for the warranty aka a piece of mind. If we do not have wagner parts for your vehicle we will order them from Autozone, Advanced Auto, Napa, Etc...
You may say its cheap shit, But really I've seen hundreds of brake pads and rotors from Autozone go on numerous vehicles SUCCESSFULLY and last.
Its all about the install too...YOU JUST do not slap pads on a truck and go, you need to take the car out on a test drive and MESH the pads to the rotors. Thats light stopping from a speed of 10-15 mph and you push the metal gently to a stop. Do it about 5 times then I take it up to speeds of 25-30 and do the same thing.
Me personally, I don't believe in cheap pads IN MY truck for numerous reasons, like for my 22's, extra weight, extra power...what it all comes down to IS MY SAFETY and those that are in the vehicle with me.
You can't put a price on safety, exspecially in a vehicle. I know some people like to cut corners or cheap out...not on a vehicle of any sort.
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