Chevrolet Suburban 3500 Questions

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Bigburb3500

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I was just reading this thread and was wondering what the enchantment is (besides novelty) with a 3500 sub. I've been towing for a long time, primarily enclosed trailers loaded with a race car, spares and tools, sometimes tipping 7000-8000lbs. While the diesel trucks are the best with 3/4 ton suspension and 900lbs of TQ, I found my Escalade ESV with an LT6.2 engine can handle the job fine....less a few MPGs. I think tow rating for the ESV is rated the same (8300lbs) as the 3500 Sub but the LT6.2 engines have a boatload more TQ than the 6.0L....460lbs vs. 380lbs.....its a big difference. And its TQ that pulls weight. I got rid of my diesel trucks, because the cost to maintain is so much more than the gassers. So I like 6.2s, DOD deleted! Have 2 LOL. And ESV's are so cheap, sub $20K tow vehicle....and comfortable with a rockin sound system. That being said, if GM made a 2500 Sub with a 6.6 L8T, I'd buy one Today! LOL
A lot of what I like on it is the simplicity. No EPA junk on it. Easy to repair engine (L96) and I believe all the 3500s came factory with the 4.10 gear ratio. Yes, the 6.2s do have more torque but the gearing makes a difference + the 6L90 is a “better” transmission that the 6L80. Again, I have not had any of the other trucks. I used to have a 3/4 ton Suburban and just liked the HD version of the K2s.

I’m in the process of “Cadillac-ing” mine with the Platinums seats. Might be after I repair my steering box. I think the pitman arm seals went bad…

Otherwise, these trucks are novelty but just more robust. I don’t disagree that an ESV Caddy is good but these trucks are limited by the tow bar at 10k, not by the drivetrain. It’s a more stable platform and the L8T fits in REALLY well nice under the hood or a supercharger.
 

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@Geotrash - I had my truck dump all its power steering fluid at a gas station today. No warning or change in driving which is odd but I’m thinking a bushing went bad (see second picture) you can see the gear inside.

Just wondering if you can take a picture of the bottom of the power steering pump to make sure I’m not crazy.
Sorry for the delay. Here you go. No, you ain’t crazy!

IMG_5709.jpeg

IMG_5710.jpeg
 
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I was just reading this thread and was wondering what the enchantment is (besides novelty) with a 3500 sub. I've been towing for a long time, primarily enclosed trailers loaded with a race car, spares and tools, sometimes tipping 7000-8000lbs. While the diesel trucks are the best with 3/4 ton suspension and 900lbs of TQ, I found my Escalade ESV with an LT6.2 engine can handle the job fine....less a few MPGs. I think tow rating for the ESV is rated the same (8300lbs) as the 3500 Sub but the LT6.2 engines have a boatload more TQ than the 6.0L....460lbs vs. 380lbs.....it’s a big difference. And it’s TQ that pulls weight. I got rid of my diesel trucks, because the cost to maintain is so much more than the gassers. So I like 6.2s, DOD deleted! Have 2 LOL. And ESV's are so cheap, sub $20K tow vehicle....and comfortable with a rockin sound system. That being said, if GM made a 2500 Sub with a 6.6 L8T, I'd buy one Today! LOL
I’m with you on the L8T, and that 1500 rigs with the 6.2 can pull.

All the same, I towed our 7500 lb 32’ alpha wolf camper for years with our 2012 Yukon XL Denali and had to make several mods to keep temps cool towing in the mountains in the summer, and to tolerate the extra abuse (bigger transmission cooler, 700w cooling fan motor, thicker radiator, billet torque converter, etc). I also deleted the AFM to give me peace of mind - one less thing to fail and the bigger cam I put in made the 6.2 even more of a towing beast.

Alas, 5 years of towing have taken their toll on the rear air shocks (new when I started towing) and compressor. Had to replace the compressor in 2024 and I’m chasing a new slow leak somewhere in the system. And I was always running right at the payload limit and sometimes over it with 2 kids + 1 friend each on many trips, and a 100lb dog.

But despite being down a bit on power, the Suburban 3500 hauled it better, thanks to the 4.10 gears. Now we have an Airstream that’s 500 lbs lighter overall but puts an extra 300 lbs on the tongue, and the Suburban 3500 couldn’t care less. Still have 2600+ lb payload margin, fully loaded. And the 3500 is more stable in high winds. No problems with engine or transmission temps either - even in the mountains. And the 3500’s brakes are significantly better.

Lastly, the 6L90 is a stouter transmission and the 14-bolt full floater is nigh unbreakable. I fully expect to be able to put 200K towing miles on this rig. I’d have to put a rear end, a torque converter, a transmission, and 3 sets of air shocks plus compressors on our XL Denali in that time.
 
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Sorry for the delay. Here you go. No, you ain’t crazy!

View attachment 474834
View attachment 474835
Ugh… my fear is true… the lower seals gave way… no power steering fluid in the reservoir but oddly enough no change to the steering feel. Will update after I get replaced. Unfortunately it looks simple enough but I don’t have the time
 

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From 1500RpM-3000RpM, how 'down on power/torque' is a 3500's L96, vs a Denali's L94? What's the Denali's axle gear(s)?
Dunno the numbers at those points off-hand but not much, and I agree that that’s where it matters. 3.42 on our Denali. 3.23, I believe on the 2018+ 10-speed units.

And another bonus: the L96 can burn regular gas, though I run mine on mid grade. I would not tow with an L86 on regular gas.
 
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Ugh… my fear is true… the lower seals gave way… no power steering fluid in the reservoir but oddly enough no change to the steering feel. Will update after I get replaced. Unfortunately it looks simple enough but I don’t have the time
Not a common failure point on the 2500 and 3500 series pickups, that I can tell. They use the same box. Looks like you just got lucky! :-(
 
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Not a common failure point on the 2500 and 3500 series pickups, that I can tell. They use the same box. Looks like you just got lucky! :-(
Are you sure they are the same box? I’m on Rock Auto and they have different part numbers? I would really love not to have to spent $800 on a new AC Delco steering gear…
 

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Are you sure they are the same box? I’m on Rock Auto and they have different part numbers? I would really love not to have to spent $800 on a new AC Delco steering gear…
You’re right - I spoke too soon. Shaft diameters and input splines are different. Also different than the older suburban 2500’s. But I did find one on eBay for half price:


I know you said time is short, but replacing that seal looks doable and most shops should be able to handle it:

 
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You’re right - I spoke too soon. Shaft diameters and input splines are different. Also different than the older suburban 2500’s. But I did find one on eBay for half price:


I know you said time is short, but replacing that seal looks doable and most shops should be able to handle it:

That’s what I’m hoping they can do. There isn’t any binding or issues with steering, just seals went bad. THAT would be my lucky break that it’s a $100-200 fix with the seal kit
 
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Failed to notice this before ...3500 brakes are better than ... better than 2018's 1500 brakes?
OK if I ask for more details?
Geo and I think part of (substantiated thru cobbling lots of different online resources together) that these trucks got the 1-ton certification is the brake upgrade over the previous gen 3/4 ton. The brakes are off the HD trucks and up the stopping power over the 1500s. They are beefy units that barely fit behind the 18” rims.
 

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Geo and I think part of (substantiated thru cobbling lots of different online resources together) that these trucks got the 1-ton certification,
is the brake upgrade over the previous gen 3/4 ton. The brakes are off the HD trucks and up the stopping power over the 1500s.
They are beefy units that barely fit behind the 18” rims.
Think what I was hoping was that it wouldn't be necessary to use a 3500's front steering and suspension on my Tahoe - assuming that'd even be possible?! - to make use of 3500 brakes on a 1500-vehicle like my Tahoe?
 
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Think what I was hoping was that it wouldn't be necessary to use a 3500's front steering and suspension on my Tahoe - assuming that'd even be possible?! - to make use of 3500 brakes on a 1500-vehicle like my Tahoe?
I’m not even going to pretend like I know that answer haha! I think these trucks are Frankenstein monsters from GM so my guess it that it is POSSIBLE but would probably recommend going with another style big-brake kit.
 

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Failed to notice this before ...3500 brakes are better than ... better than 2018's 1500 brakes?
OK if I ask for more details?
Joshua has it right. The Suburban 3500 has the larger brakes from the 1-ton SRW pickups. 14" rotor diameter vs 13" for the 1500 and they're about 3/8" thicker. And they're 8-lug. Also, the calipers are about 6 lbs heavier and 4.5" wider than the ones on the 1500. The pads have considerably more surface area as well. Not a practical upgrade for a 1500 Tahoe, unfortunately.

3500 vs 1500 rotors:
1767037899027.png
1767037872576.png



3500 pads:
1767037541905.png


1500 pads:
1767037568254.png
 
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Joshua has it right. The Suburban 3500 has the larger brakes from the 1-ton SRW pickups. 14" rotor diameter vs 13" for the 1500 and they're about 3/8" thicker. And they're 8-lug. Also, the calipers are about 6 lbs heavier and 4.5" wider than the ones on the 1500. The pads have considerably more surface area as well. Not a practical upgrade for a 1500 Tahoe, unfortunately.

3500 vs 1500 rotors:
View attachment 474919View attachment 474918


3500 pads:
View attachment 474916

1500 pads:
View attachment 474917
That’s a really great side by side comparison!!
 

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The question of 6.0L LS vs 6.2L LT performance was rattling around in my head so I did a little google-fu and came up with the following. Note that the different ranges on the charts distort the picture. Anyway, figure 2500 as a nice, relaxed rpm for towing and you can see the difference between the L96 and L86 power curves. 355 tq and 175 hp for the L96, and a hair under 400 tq and 215 hp for the L86. For fun, I also ran the numbers for the stock L94 at 2500 and came up with 380 tq and 190 hp. Then, look at the little Duramax 3.0 diesel at the end - 450 tq and about 225hp. No wonder people seem to love towing with that little thing.

Those are all meaningful differences, but in practice the L96 in the Suburban 3500 is plenty capable with the 4.10 gears. The towing experience is still excellent and I can hold 5th most of the time, no problem, whereas I need to use 4th most of the time with the L94 and the 3.42 gears.

Horsepower is what lets you keep your speed up on the hills, so kicking it up to 4000 rpm brings about 290 hp on the L96 and 340 hp on the L86. Plenty of power in most cases until you start getting up in really high country, above 6000'.

Summary @2500 RPM:
L96 = 355 tq, 175 hp - w BB tune ~ 370 tq, 190 hp
L94 = 380 tq, 190 hp - w/Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck cam and BB tune ~ 420 tq, 225 hp
L86 = 400 tq, 200 hp
L8T = 430 tq, 210 hp
LM0 = 450 tq, 220 hp

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1767121310964.png
 
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So far as I've been able to tell over the past 25 years, only OE dyno charts have useful power/torque readings UNDER 3000RpM
Summary @ 2500RpM:
L96 = 355 tq, 175 hp - w BB tune ~ 370 tq, 190 hp
L94 = 380 tq, 190 hp - w/Cam Motion Stage 2 Truck cam and BB tune ~ 420 tq, 225 hp
L86 = 400 tq, 215 hp
L8T = 430 tq, 195 hp
LM0 = 450 tq, 220 hp
Something's a wee lil bit off in there ...
ANYWAY
Engine power to the flywheel, ain't the same as what the entire powertrain sends to the tires.
For 4L60E / 4L80E / 6L80E, I preach the gospel of 3.73 & 4.10.
GM had more & better resources, which explains the gearing improvements of the 8L90 & 10L80.
 

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So far as I've been able to tell over the past 25 years, only OE dyno charts have useful power/torque readings UNDER 3000RpM
Something's a wee lil bit off in there ...
ANYWAY
Engine power to the flywheel, ain't the same as what the entire powertrain sends to the tires.
For 4L60E / 4L80E / 6L80E, I preach the gospel of 3.73 & 4.10.
GM had more & better resources, which explains the gearing improvements of the 8L90 & 10L80.
Yeah, the HP axis doesn't line up with the lines, so it's a bit of a visual guess. I gave it another pass and hopefully got them a bit closer.
 
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You’re right - I spoke too soon. Shaft diameters and input splines are different. Also different than the older suburban 2500’s. But I did find one on eBay for half price:


I know you said time is short, but replacing that seal looks doable and most shops should be able to handle it:

The steering box is no longer for sale… because I bought it lol.

Turns out these things are near unobtainium… $1000+ from the dealer and $800+ from RockAuto. Likely will rebuild the one that failed and either keep it as a spare or list for sale.
 

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