2013 Yukon SLT 5.3 2WD Longevity

[preston123]

Hey Guys,

I have a 2013 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3L 2WD with a 161,000 miles on it. For history on it, it’s a stock truck with AFM still active with everything mostly factory (transmission is still original; I know transmissions can be a weak point here so any symptoms of it failing I would love to here). The maintenance records are thick with everything done at a dealer. I am 24 but really good about maintaining my vehicles for example the oil is changed every 3,000 miles.

I was wondering what your guys thoughts were on the longevity of the truck were before I had to spend a lot on it to keep it going. I love the truck but every time I am done recouping my investment on a repair it needs something else. So I was thinking about getting something new.

 

[swathdiver]

Are the cost of repairs more than the expense of a new or used vehicle? Generally speaking, it's cheaper to keep her.

Run the truck on the severe service schedule and you may very well exceed 300K miles on it.

You are right about the mileage when most of us have to overhaul our front suspensions and replace the o-ring in the pickup tube for the oil pump.

 

[preston123]

Are the cost of repairs more than the expense of a new or used vehicle? Generally speaking, it's cheaper to keep her.

Run the truck on the severe service schedule and you may very well exceed 300K miles on it.

You are right about the mileage when most of us have to overhaul our front suspensions and replace the o-ring in the pickup tube for the oil pump.

Are the cost of repairs more than the expense of a new or used vehicle? Generally speaking, it's cheaper to keep her.

Run the truck on the severe service schedule and you may very well exceed 300K miles on it.

You are right about the mileage when most of us have to overhaul our front suspensions and replace the o-ring in the pickup tube for the oil pump.

At the moment the answer would be no. But I know there are more expensive repairs coming. I just have a hard time thinking about investing thousands in a car that’s worth maybe $5K but I also see your point.

What’s the cost of those two jobs you mentioned?

 

[Marky Dissod]

... stock truck with AFM still active with everything mostly factory - 6L80 is still original; I know transmissions can be a weak point here so any symptoms of it failing ...

Strangely, one of the weaknesses of the 6L80 IS Engine Half@$$.
Disabling V4 mode helps, but a tune which both disables Engine Half@$$ and improves TCC function significantly extends the 6L80's longevity.

6L80 failure symptoms ... you'll get used to how it shifts, whether you're being gentle or not.
You'll begin to notice shift 'character' will increasingly become more inconsistent and unpredictable.
Here's one you won't hear or read often: track your MpGs, if you notice them going bad despite your driving habits staying consistent,
get your used motor oil & ATF analyzed immediately, odds are something is going wrong.

 

[alvocado]

My personal experience with my 2011 is very reliable. I had very few repairs before 200k. My torque converter blew at 222k on a long distance trip and I should have changed it proactively before then. I’d recommend doing that now with your mileage. Everything since 200k has been service life related and if you are willing to DIY, it’s worth keeping. I started using a cheap AFM OBDII disabler after the trans rebuild which I’m hoping will offer some lifter longevity.

I do think your oil change intervals are excessive. Ive run 10-15k oil change intervals since new with the exception of a 500 mile break in change and at most, I add 0.5 quarts between changes. Do an oil analysis to see if you can extend those intervals.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

If the truck has been maintained properly, and it seems that it has, you're probably at about half of its useful life.

Significant items that require your attention now:

AFM delete - software and hardware
Torque converter replacement
All cooling/hearing hoses and the heating plastic Tees, if you have rear heat

Significant items that will require attention in the future:

All shocks
Ball joints
Wheel bearings

Other folks will chime with additional items.

 

[swathdiver]

What’s the cost of those two jobs you mentioned?

Well, when my children and I overhauled the front suspension in 2021, About $1500 was spent on front suspension and steering parts. We did the labor and bought lots of tools to make the work easier/faster. All of the major components were GM OE with some ACDelco Professional/Gold small parts like the caster/camber kits and drag reduction clips.

The oil pump pickup o-ring is about a dollar or so. But of course there is an oil change involved as well as a new oil pan gasket. Labor rate is about 3.5 hours.

 

[preston123]

If the truck has been maintained properly, and it seems that it has, you're probably at about half of its useful life.

Significant items that require your attention now:

AFM delete - software and hardware
Torque converter replacement
All cooling/hearing hoses and the heating plastic Tees, if you have rear heat

Significant items that will require attention in the future:

All shocks
Ball joints
Wheel bearings

Other folks will chime with additional items.

Would you recommend doing the AFM, torque converter now?

 

[preston123]

Well, when my children and I overhauled the front suspension in 2021, About $1500 was spent on front suspension and steering parts. We did the labor and bought lots of tools to make the work easier/faster. All of the major components were GM OE with some ACDelco Professional/Gold small parts like the caster/camber kits and drag reduction clips.

The oil pump pickup o-ring is about a dollar or so. But of course there is an oil change involved as well as a new oil pan gasket. Labor rate is about 3.5 hours.

Well, when my children and I overhauled the front suspension in 2021, About $1500 was spent on front suspension and steering parts. We did the labor and bought lots of tools to make the work easier/faster. All of the major components were GM OE with some ACDelco Professional/Gold small parts like the caster/camber kits and drag reduction clips.

The oil pump pickup o-ring is about a dollar or so. But of course there is an oil change involved as well as a new oil pan gasket. Labor rate is about 3.5 hours.

got it thanks

 

[preston123]

Strangely, one of the weaknesses of the 6L80 IS Engine Half@$$.
Disabling V4 mode helps, but a tune which both disables Engine Half@$$ and improves TCC function significantly extends the 6L80's longevity.

6L80 failure symptoms ... you'll get used to how it shifts, whether you're being gentle or not.
You'll begin to notice shift 'character' will increasingly become more inconsistent and unpredictable.
Here's one you won't hear or read often: track your MpGs, if you notice them going bad despite your driving habits staying consistent,
get your used motor oil & ATF analyzed immediately, odds are something is going wrong.

thanks!

 

[preston123]

My personal experience with my 2011 is very reliable. I had very few repairs before 200k. My torque converter blew at 222k on a long distance trip and I should have changed it proactively before then. I’d recommend doing that now with your mileage. Everything since 200k has been service life related and if you are willing to DIY, it’s worth keeping. I started using a cheap AFM OBDII disabler after the trans rebuild which I’m hoping will offer some lifter longevity.

I do think your oil change intervals are excessive. Ive run 10-15k oil change intervals since new with the exception of a 500 mile break in change and at most, I add 0.5 quarts between changes. Do an oil analysis to see if you can extend those intervals.

What would your thoughts be if I could not do it myself? I live in an apartment. I am somewhat more mechanical than the average 24 year old but don’t have any of the stuff to do any of this kind of work.

 

[Geotrash]

Would you recommend doing the AFM, torque converter now?

Yes. At 161K, you're on borrowed time for the TC. Find a local transmission shop that gets stellar reviews on Google Maps. They will be familiar with the problem and will likely have a recommendation for their preferred TC provider. Tell them you want one with a flanged hub, a billet cover, and a stronger lockup clutch than stock. It needn't be brand new – many of us are running remanufactured OEM units that have the improvements I listed above. Have them replace the rear main seal on the engine while they're in there. Should cost about $1500, out the door.

Since we're spending your money, many of us strongly recommend an engine and transmission tune from www.blackbearperformance.com. It will wake up the truck, electronically disable AFM, and increase your transmission's longevity by tightening up the shifts so that there is less slip when changing gears. They have tuned both of my Yukon XL's and my Suburban. Their EFILive Autocal service is email-based. You use their device to record data while you drive a 20-minute loop that includes 2 full-throttle pulls, and email them the files from the device. In about 2 weeks, they'll email you back a set of tune files specifically for your truck that you then apply with their device. It's brilliant and Justin knows what he's doing.

Other than that, I agree with James about the oil pickup tube o-ring, but that will give you some warning over the course of a few months as the oil pressure will begin to drop off when it's needed. Though it's worth noting that there is a screen below the oil pressure sender that can get clogged over time and reduce your oil pressure readings. That was the cause on my 2012 Yukon XL Denali at around 92K miles when I bought it used. I also agree with the recommendation to replace all coolant hoses, including the heater hoses and the little plastic tees at the firewall, proactively.

In terms of longevity, these are the closest thing you can get to heirloom quality in a vehicle. We have lots of guys running around here with 350K+ on theirs and still running strong, and I've personally seen others at 500K and beyond. My '07 Yukon XL Denali has 252K on it now and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to Alaska tomorrow. Finally, some will say it's excessive, but one common thread for AFM system durability is keeping clean oil in it, as you are.

 

[preston123]

Yes. At 161K, you're on borrowed time for the TC. Find a local transmission shop that gets stellar reviews on Google Maps. They will be familiar with the problem and will likely have a recommendation for their preferred TC provider. Tell them you want one with a flanged hub, a billet cover, and a stronger lockup clutch than stock. It needn't be brand new – many of us are running remanufactured OEM units that have the improvements I listed above. Have them replace the rear main seal on the engine while they're in there. Should cost about $1500, out the door.

Since we're spending your money, many of us strongly recommend an engine and transmission tune from www.blackbearperformance.com. It will wake up the truck, electronically disable AFM, and increase your transmission's longevity by tightening up the shifts so that there is less slip when changing gears. They have tuned both of my Yukon XL's and my Suburban. Their EFILive Autocal service is email-based. You use their device to record data while you drive a 20-minute loop that includes 2 full-throttle pulls, and email them the files from the device. In about 2 weeks, they'll email you back a set of tune files specifically for your truck that you then apply with their device. It's brilliant and Justin knows what he's doing.

Other than that, I agree with James about the oil pickup tube o-ring, but that will give you some warning over the course of a few months as the oil pressure will begin to drop off when it's needed. Though it's worth noting that there is a screen below the oil pressure sender that can get clogged over time and reduce your oil pressure readings. That was the cause on my 2012 Yukon XL Denali at around 92K miles when I bought it used. I also agree with the recommendation to replace all coolant hoses, including the heater hoses and the little plastic tees at the firewall, proactively.

In terms of longevity, these are the closest thing you can get to heirloom quality in a vehicle. We have lots of guys running around here with 350K+ on theirs and still running strong, and I've personally seen others at 500K and beyond. My '07 Yukon XL Denali has 252K on it now and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to Alaska tomorrow. Finally, some will say it's excessive, but one common thread for AFM system durability is keeping clean oil in it, as you are.

That all makes a lot of sense. Is it stupid to wait if it drives fine right now ?

 

[Geotrash]

That all makes a lot of sense. Is it stupid to wait if it drives fine right now ?

When the TC lockup clutch starts to go (how most of them fail), you'll likely feel a shuddering sensation. By then, it's maybe a 50/50 if it's too late because when they let go, they send ground metal and friction material through all of the coolers and into the transmission, taking all of them out as it goes.

 

[preston123]

When the TC lockup clutch starts to go (how most of them fail), you'll likely feel a shuddering sensation. By then, it's maybe a 50/50 if it's too late because when they let go, they send ground metal and friction material through all of the coolers and into the transmission, taking all of them out as it goes.

That’s helpful. At the moment everything drives fine. I mean it’s got the occasional shift that you feel but no consistency to it. I am going to call and start getting quotes. But let me know if I should be worried. It’s a 12 year old transmission so I guess I can’t expect it to be perfect.

All of the hoses have been replaced. And I went back through I think the oil ring has been done when I had to get a new oil pan a little bit ago.

So I think just TC and tune if I decide to keep it.

Thank you!

 

[alvocado]

If you primarily drive local, the risk of waiting until parts need replaced is low. Worse case, you get a tow if you break down. If you make long distance trips, the risk of a major failure are greater as you'll be potentially stranded. My torque converter failed this January when I was 5 hours from home and I had to coordinate getting the truck shipped back as well as scramble to find a rental car on a Saturday. My torque converter was showing signs of wear with shuddering when coming to a stop for a couple of months before it gave out. I should have been more proactive but lesson learned.

As @Geotrash notes, it's much cheaper to pay for a torque converter replacement before it fails as once it goes, you get metal throughout your entire system. You're then looking at a more expensive rebuild. Here's what mine looked like post failure.