Have you ever (tried to) replaced a brake light switch??

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Mean_Green

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I can see it. I can touch it. That's about all. Dealer says $200 to replace a $20 switch.

It has a spring retaining clip on it that may have to be damaged to remove it. Dorman has a kit of those for $5 or so. Prices on the switch run from $5-6 at Rock, to $15 or so at AZ and other local auto parts stores.
 

Coveman

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On my 99 burb I had some intermittent cruise issues and traced it to the brake switch. I found that wiggling the electrical connector on the brake switch fixed the problem. Replacing it is possible, just takes some patience. Several good videos on yt…
 

OR VietVet

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On my 99 burb I had some intermittent cruise issues and traced it to the brake switch. I found that wiggling the electrical connector on the brake switch fixed the problem. Replacing it is possible, just takes some patience. Several good videos on yt…
Dealing with the spring clip itself is not bad. It is the crowded work space that makes it a PITA.
 

Eman85

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Patience and perseverance is all that has gotten me by in life and repairing vehicles. It's tedious and allows you to use all of those words you've been saving up for times like these. Good lighting makes it easier, along with good music.
 

OR VietVet

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Patience and perseverance is all that has gotten me by in life and repairing vehicles. It's tedious and allows you to use all of those words you've been saving up for times like these. Good lighting makes it easier, along with good music.
And a quality pick set.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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I have a new switch and clip set coming from Rock.

Cheapest switch they had, so I may come to regret frugality.

But based on the ones I looked at while in local parts stores (they didn't have the clip sets), I don't really see how it works ... how the push rod presses the switch lever.
 

OR VietVet

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I have a new switch and clip set coming from Rock.

Cheapest switch they had, so I may come to regret frugality.

But based on the ones I looked at while in local parts stores (they didn't have the clip sets), I don't really see how it works ... how the push rod presses the switch lever.
It is very slight brake pedal pressure that activates that stop light switch. That means you will not see much on the switch that shows a "travel zone".
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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I have the new switch. I have not tried to get to the old one yet due to weather ( and a very sore back ). Holding it in my hand, I simply do not understand how it works. I see the leaf lever and the switch button and I know how leaf switches typically work. But this one is inside where the push rod fits for the retaining clip. There doesn't seem like there would/should be any movement at all.

I guess I'll know more once I get under there.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Well, the switch itself is replaced. Need to get my brains back before I tackle the retaining clip. Not like any clip I've ever seen. The collar closes around the shaft andn there are spring tabs that push it away from the switch and against a shoulder on the shaft. Hard to explain. You have to separate the collar almost destructively to be able to release it. I guess that's why Dorman sells the clips in multi-packs. I was able to wedge a small screwdriver in where the red arrows are and force that part open. Then the clip almost sprung itself off.


Brake Switch Retainer.jpg



Then it was a puzzle to get the switch off since it has a part that has to settle down over the push rod. And then manipulate it in tight spaces to get it and the wiring over the steering column and down where you can see it.

That's when the fun began.

One of the wires was broken off at the terminal clip. Was that the original problem? Or did I break it getting it out? No way to know.

Had to figure out how to get the terminal out of the plastic connector block, solder a piece of wire as an extension, then use an IDC splice to the remaining harness wire. Using a larger screwdriver, I could activate the switch a few times to make sure the brake lights lit before trying to get the switch back in place.

Reverse the process of getting the switch back up over the column and into place.

With that done, a few presses of the brake pedal to make sure it worked.

Not sure why, but I sweat like a stuck pig from the head and face, even in cool dry weather. Can't really wear readers/glasses when doing anything like this because they just fog right up. So I have to fight trying to see small things and wipe the drips away every few minutes.

I'll get back out there in a bit and see how much effort it takes to get the new retaining clip in place.
 

Sweetie101

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I can see it. I can touch it. That's about all. Dealer says $200 to replace a $20 switch.

It has a spring retaining clip on it that may have to be damaged to remove it. Dorman has a kit of those for $5 or so. Prices on the switch run from $5-6 at Rock, to $15 or so at AZ and other local auto parts stores.
Yes you need a good snap ring tool but I have done it with needle nose pliers, a screw driver and a small ballpeen hammer to tap it with. Once you know the size of the snap ring I would purchase a handful of them as it may go flying into the abyss during installation. Choose a time when your feeling patient and you have to be somewhat of a contortionist. Mine quit working on the 03 and I just gently tapped it with my baby ballpeen and it started working again. Sometimes these old Tahoe's seem to heal themselves.
 
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Mean_Green

Mean_Green

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Clip's on. Tried several times yesterday and kept dropping it. Almost lost it a couple times when it fell into places where I couldn't really see it or get to it.

Gave up.

Decided to glue it to the end of a piece of stiff wire I could use to position it over the rod. Bent another piece of wire to learn how to get it in there. Once over the shaft, a long screwdriver helped to push it into place until in snapped in.


Clips.jpg






Wonder if my Cruise will work now?
 

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