What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Walkerfever]

Not going exactly as planned (details in my build thread) but progress!

 

[SpyShops212]

It looks great. What is not going right? Maybe I can help you.

 

[Carfan]

Got my vehicle back and the dealer said they couldn't identify the problem. They adjusted struts to see if they were the issue and then put them back.
On the way home no squeaks.
The dealer said that it could be an early sign of magna-ride failure but if they fixed it now it wouldn't be covered by the warranty....

Took my 'Burb to the dealer this morning to address a squeaky sound that happens during road imperfections on the highway. Crossing my fingers that it means something needs to be lubed.

 

[Walkerfever]

It looks great. What is not going right? Maybe I can help you.

Basically, I'm stuck using USB-C for charging with a separate HDMI port for audio\video. The original hopes and dreams were to have a dock in the center console, with one single USB-C connection for charging, A\V, USB, etc. The problem is that there are very few docks that work with a Nintendo Switch and a Steam Deck\Ally\Legion\Laptop, the only one that really fits the bill has a male USB-C output. Due to USB-C's design, a female to female adapter (coupler) can't exist. It can ONLY pass power (not data), and only in one direction...so it will only pass power through with the cable plugged in one way. I guess a lot of the reasoning behind it safety. With a female to female adapter you can basically make a USB-C to USB-C cable as long as you want. Since they are carrying a significant amount of power to charge devices (PD power), the cables aren't rated to carry that kind of current over long distances. Worst case scenario there could potentially be a fire hazard, melting wires, etc.

 

[SpyShops212]

Basically, I'm stuck using USB-C for charging with a separate HDMI port for audio\video. The original hopes and dreams were to have a dock in the center console, with one single USB-C connection for charging, A\V, USB, etc. The problem is that there are very few docks that work with a Nintendo Switch and a Steam Deck\Ally\Legion\Laptop, the only one that really fits the bill has a male USB-C output. Due to USB-C's design, a female to female adapter (coupler) can't exist. It can ONLY pass power (not data), and only in one direction...so it will only pass power through with the cable plugged in one way. I guess a lot of the reasoning behind it safety. With a female to female adapter you can basically make a USB-C to USB-C cable as long as you want. Since they are carrying a significant amount of power to charge devices (PD power), the cables aren't rated to carry that kind of current over long distances. Worst case scenario there could potentially be a fire hazard, melting wires, etc.

Can you provide a video about this?

 

[Walkerfever]

Can you provide a video about this?

Maybe this weekend, but in short I wanted to hide this in the center console: https://a.co/d/bB3fl7H

Then plug it into this adapter:

Amazon.com: QIANRENON 10Gbps USB-C to USB-C Panel Mount Adapter, Type-C 3.1 Female to Female Straight Connector, 100W Charging, Integral Al Alloy Housing, D-Type/XLR Panel Mount, Extension : Electronics

Buy QIANRENON 10Gbps USB-C to USB-C Panel Mount Adapter, Type-C 3.1 Female to Female Straight Connector, 100W Charging, Integral Al Alloy Housing, D-Type/XLR Panel Mount, Extension: Cables & Interconnects - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

In theory, this would make it to where I only had to plug in one USBC cable whenever I brought a game console(or laptop) into the Yukon. The problem is that second adapter doesn't work that way, and there isn't one that works that way. That second adapter will only work for charging, no data.

Edit: I also finished them last night. Had to modify my wireless charger's add-on harness so I wouldn't cut too many wires on the stock harness. I ended up only need to cut 2 of the stock wires in the entire project. Also, the power hungry USB-C charger is now on it's own circuit. Came out great!

 

[Jetskier77]

Well, weather storm hit before I could test fit the modified PETG version of the fuse holder, and it's currently 18*F and windy. I think the weather breaks on Thursday. We will see. In other news, Borla is installed. It's louder than I expected, but I'm used to it already. No drone is awesome.
View attachment 446688

Oooooh... I like the sound of that And it looks like you dropped the rear a tad? It doesnt seem to have that 'stinkbug' stance that mine does.

 

[Carfan]

Got my vehicle back and the dealer said they couldn't identify the problem. They adjusted struts to see if they were the issue and then put them back.
On the way home no squeaks.
The dealer said that it could be an early sign of magna-ride failure but if they fixed it now it wouldn't be covered by the warranty....

Today I had a car service take me to the airport for a quick business trip. They sent a guy in a 2024 Suburban Premier with its independent rear suspension. The ride was bouncier than mine and it had many more squeaks than I ever heard in mine.

I didn't see how many miles were on their 24 Suburban. I asked him what year it was and he said it was 24 and that he got it this summer. Mine hasn't broken 40k yet.

I'm glad I got a chance to get a ride for nearly an hour down the highway I drive regularly to do a comparison.

I might still see what can be done to get my squeaks completely gone but there's no need to worry about premature failure of the magnaride. ‍

 

[Walkerfever]

Watched my son change the oil for the first time by himself. Only forgot the "Push against the drain bolt\oil filter while you loosen it so it doesn't suddenly drop and start draining and spilling oil everywhere" rule once, on the filter. Everything he did exactly by the book, even drained the catch can. He installed this new drain plug that is the fanciest looking plug I have ever seen:

Fancy, right? Too bad it leaks. He torqued it to 18 ft pounds and it still drips slowly, I think it's that copper crush washer. Today after work I'm going to try a Dorman 097-116CD gasket on it. We are going to try the shopvac to the oil cap trick to keep the oil from leaking out during the gasket swap. Here's hoping that goes well.

 

[Loki223]

Got the LED backlight GM bowtie installed yesterday, took up maybe 5 minutes of time

And after fully rebuilding the bottom end of this seat, new cushion, new leather, new heater / ac ducts, new vibrators, got it sitting back in the burb all nice and happy. And honestly, wow. What a difference. the durafoam from the seat shop makes a gigantic difference. And the color match on the leather is nearly perfect. Highly recommend everyone with the bad stock seat cushions to replace them with the durafoam. Takes about an hour per seat, but it's worth it

 

[the 18th letter]

Last night I found my BB tune files hanging out in my spam folder . They were in there a few days so I hope they didn’t get influenced by bad actors. Got them loaded and took a quick test drive. It’s about time. If anybody needs a gently 10k used Range device let me know.

 

[Walkerfever]

Hub Assemblies! Easiest hubs I have ever done... and I want it to be that way again!



They work great! Quieter ride and potentially more MPG, I can't complain!

 

[Loki223]

Did the passenger seat rebuild this weekend, fresh cushions up front make a huge difference. New leather from the seat shop matches perfectly as well

Also, Morimoto XB tail lights with the reverse light booster installed from DDP Motorsports, definitely a nice aesthetic upgrade

 

[ss4chad]

New Rear Shocks, New Cross Drilled/Slotted rear rotors and brake pads. Rides much better!
I put new wheels on it back in the Fall, need to get a pic and post, they look great!

Chad

 

[Loki223]

@ss4chad i would highly reconsider the cross drilled and slotted rotors. While they are great at shedding head, they warp incredibly easy and can chew through brake pads. Which is fine in a race setting where they are replaced every race, on a DD, not so ideal. if you are looking for something with better heat dissipation i would go with just dimpled rotors, they are massive improvement over stock in terms of heat dissipation, without sacrificing rotor strength and pad life

 

[gtrslngrchris]

@ss4chad i would highly reconsider the cross drilled and slotted rotors. While they are great at shedding head, they warp incredibly easy and can chew through brake pads. Which is fine in a race setting where they are replaced every race, on a DD, not so ideal. if you are looking for something with better heat dissipation i would go with just dimpled rotors, they are massive improvement over stock in terms of heat dissipation, without sacrificing rotor strength and pad life

I've been hearing this my whole life and it has never been a problem. As a matter of fact I've only had blank rotors warp on me ever.

 

[RST Dana]

I’ve driven around 400k miles with several vehicles using drilled/slotted rotors without ever having issues.

 

[Doubeleive]

@ss4chad i would highly reconsider the cross drilled and slotted rotors. While they are great at shedding head, they warp incredibly easy and can chew through brake pads. Which is fine in a race setting where they are replaced every race, on a DD, not so ideal. if you are looking for something with better heat dissipation i would go with just dimpled rotors, they are massive improvement over stock in terms of heat dissipation, without sacrificing rotor strength and pad life

You must be buying bottom of the barrel rotors, I have used and SEVERELY abused drilled and slotted rotors for decades and never had a problem.
if anyone outside of a race track was going to have problems it would be me.... and that has not happened, I did buy some "ebay specials" once about 18 years ago and they developed cracks but that was to be expected for the cheapest thing I could find at the time. goes along with the cheapest crap pads you can find as well they leave material on the rotor like bubble gum.
for reference premium ceramic pads last me about a year and half
premium semi-metallic last me 1 year
cheap composite pads last me about 6 months

 

[Loki223]

You must be buying bottom of the barrel rotors, I have used and SEVERELY abused drilled and slotted rotors for decades and never had a problem.
if anyone outside of a race track was going to have problems it would be me.... and that has not happened, I did buy some "ebay specials" once about 18 years ago and they developed cracks but that was to be expected for the cheapest thing I could find at the time. goes along with the cheapest crap pads you can find as well they leave material on the rotor like bubble gum.
for reference premium ceramic pads last me about a year and half
premium semi-metallic last me 1 year
cheap composite pads last me about 6 months

I'll be honest, i haven't tried them again in close to 20 years. At the time, i did buy higher end rotors, i still do. All of my stuff is Hawk's Performance on my rigs these days. But i've also never had to justify drilled and slotted rotors, i also have a tendency to rely on my brakes pretty heavily, so i don't like wonder about the quality and life of my parts, here's a scale weight from my truck, and yes, pickup truck, just a plane jane 1 ton truck. I'm not one to gamble with my brakes for obvious reasons. But i have seen many drilled and slotted rotors fail on other people's DD vehicles, but also admittedly, i don't know for certain if they spent the money on quality or parts, or thought hey those look cool. I do know the science behind the rotors and the benefits and weighing a cost benefit situation and know dimpled rotors are the strongest option for street use with the highest heat and dust dissipation without affecting strength and durability

 

[Walkerfever]

Installed Diode Dynamics SS3 Max Fogs on the Yukon yesterday with my son. My goodness what a different they make!
Off:

Lows:

Lows and Fogs:

Snagged a few pics of the Yukon anyway: