2001 Tahoe power window switches not working for passengers ONLY.

[Pullmanite]

The passenger switches for power windows on 2001 Chevy Tahoe stopped working. The driver can raise and lower all four windows, but the three passenger switches all stopped working. L/R window fuses are fine. Really odd that 3 of 4 switches stopped working, while the driver can still control all four windows.

I fixed the driver door arm rest (common issue) and must have done something. The driver's window and lock controls function perfectly, the passenger lock works fine, but the three passenger window switches can't control their own respective windows. Almost acts like a child lock is on or something, but those seem to only be on the back doors and they are switched off.

Any ideas?

 

[Doubeleive]

The passenger switches for power windows on 2001 Chevy Tahoe stopped working. The driver can raise and lower all four windows, but the three passenger switches all stopped working. L/R window fuses are fine. Really odd that 3 of 4 switches stopped working, while the driver can still control all four windows.

I fixed the driver door arm rest (common issue) and must have done something. The driver's window and lock controls function perfectly, the passenger lock works fine, but the three passenger window switches can't control their own respective windows. Almost acts like a child lock is on or something, but those seem to only be on the back doors and they are switched off.

Any ideas?

the drivers window lock switch does exactly that, locks out the other 3 windows
the rear child door lock is something completely different

 

[Pullmanite]

Good grief, I'm an idiot! I'll check when I get home.

 

[justirv]

Good grief, I'm an idiot! I'll check when I get home.

It's ok, I've done it myself... . On a serious note, if you ever need to replace any of those switches, get original A/C D... cheap (AMZ) substitutes are crap...

 

[Pullmanite]

Yup, that's all it was. For some reason, my brain wasn't even seeing that switch although it's right there plain as day. Goes to show that I never use it and my wife is right when she says I'm not very observant! Thanks for the quick help. I'm embarrassed to admit how much time I spent checking fuses and re-opening the door panel to reseat my cable connections.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

Now I have the passenger-window-will-not-work issue again. I had it and it went away. Now it's back. I checked the "lock" switch. That's not it. When I hit the switch on the drivers door for the passenger window, I hear a click over at the passenger door. Some sort of signal is getting over there but the window doesn't move. What's my next step? All the other windows work with all the associated switches.

 

[Doubeleive]

Now I have the passenger-window-will-not-work issue again. I had it and it went away. Now it's back. I checked the "lock" switch. That's not it. When I hit the switch on the drivers door for the passenger window, I hear a click over at the passenger door. Some sort of signal is getting over there but the window doesn't move. What's my next step? All the other windows work with all the associated switches.

SO.....to be clear the passenger window does not operate with the passenger side switch either? so non-op period?
if so, then either the window motor is not working or perhaps the regulator is jammed up.
in which case you could remove the door panel and apply 12v to the motor and see if it is indeed working or not.
the motor goes either direction up/down depending on the voltage polarity.
if you end up having to replace the motor, I highly recommend just grabbing a used one from a junkyard the junk they sell at the autoparts stores is 99% plastic garbage and will fail in no time. it might have a metal case on the motor making it look metal but inside it's all plastic junk. you can compare the old motor to a replacement and feel the weight difference.
if it is the regulator then aftermarket are generally fine.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

SO.....to be clear the passenger window does not operate with the passenger side switch either? so non-op period?

Correct, doesn't work with the driver switch or passenger switch. As mentioned there is a faint clicking sound over at the passenger door when I activate the switch at the drivers door.

if so, then either the window motor is not working or perhaps the regulator is jammed up.
in which case you could remove the door panel and apply 12v to the motor and see if it is indeed working or not.

Ok, pull the card and try to "jump" the motor to move.

the motor goes either direction up/down depending on the voltage polarity.
if you end up having to replace the motor, I highly recommend just grabbing a used one from a junkyard the junk they sell at the autoparts stores is 99% plastic garbage and will fail in no time. it might have a metal case on the motor making it look metal but inside it's all plastic junk. you can compare the old motor to a replacement and feel the weight difference.
if it is the regulator then aftermarket are generally fine.

 

[justirv]

Correct, doesn't work with the driver switch or passenger switch. As mentioned there is a faint clicking sound over at the passenger door when I activate the switch at the drivers door.


Ok, pull the card and try to "jump" the motor to move.

The click sound to me says you're getting the signal there at the motor. It could be jammed, and you may be able to restore movement. I went with new replacement for all 4 window regulators on my '02 Tahoe. I believe RA was were I got them.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

The click sound to me says you're getting the signal there at the motor. It could be jammed, and you may be able to restore movement. I went with new replacement for all 4 window regulators on my '02 Tahoe. I believe RA was were I got them.

That makes sense. Probably jammed because it doesn't get used much. I guess time to take look.

 

[2006Tahoe2WD]

That makes sense. Probably jammed because it doesn't get used much. I guess time to take look.

I pulled the door card. Nobody had been there before (~18 years). The consul on the passenger side that holds the window and lock buttons doesn't pop out. There is a screw inside. Don't try to pry it out, you will break the tab. You can take the DC out and then reach around and unscrew the front mounting point.
Results - @justirv had it correct.... the window was stuck enough that the motor could not start the movement. I checked the 2 pin connector going to the window motor and it was getting +/- 11.5 volts using the switch. So I knew the controls/etc. were working. I losened the regulator and futz around and got it to start working. I guess that's it for now. Didn't really find the root cause. Taking the complete regulator/etc. out looks like huge PITA so I didn't go there. I bet the regulator is not that well aligned with the door frame because the motor slows down in mid motion on the way up.

 

[Doubeleive]

I pulled the door card. Nobody had been there before (~18 years). The consul on the passenger side that holds the window and lock buttons doesn't pop out. There is a screw inside. Don't try to pry it out, you will break the tab. You can take the DC out and then reach around and unscrew the front mounting point.
Results - @justirv had it correct.... the window was stuck enough that the motor could not start the movement. I checked the 2 pin connector going to the window motor and it was getting +/- 11.5 volts using the switch. So I knew the controls/etc. were working. I losened the regulator and futz around and got it to start working. I guess that's it for now. Didn't really find the root cause. Taking the complete regulator/etc. out looks like huge PITA so I didn't go there. I bet the regulator is not that well aligned with the door frame because the motor slows down in mid motion on the way up.

spray some lithium grease in the channels, that will help, might also help if you removed the 3 bolts on the motor and greased up the gear in there also

 

[Ken Casher]

Now I have the passenger-window-will-not-work issue again. I had it and it went away. Now it's back. I checked the "lock" switch. That's not it. When I hit the switch on the drivers door for the passenger window, I hear a click over at the passenger door. Some sort of signal is getting over there but the window doesn't move. What's my next step? All the other windows work with all the associated switches.

/Check the grounds. The window relays always have power applied so the switches apply a ground to the other side of the relays. When you use the main control on the drivers door the ground goes directly from that switch to the door switch. When you use the door switch it uses the same ground but it comes through the I/P junction box and the fuse block on the left side of the dash then through the lockout switch. I had the same problem and I just grounded it in the door. I never use the lockout switchso I didn't care. But now I have the same problem in a different door. This time I'll pull the plugs off and clean the contacts. I have access to the wiring diagrams but I can't find anything that shows me the pinout on the connectors. Any idea where I can those?

 

[justirv]

I pulled the door card. Nobody had been there before (~18 years). The consul on the passenger side that holds the window and lock buttons doesn't pop out. There is a screw inside. Don't try to pry it out, you will break the tab. You can take the DC out and then reach around and unscrew the front mounting point.
Results - @justirv had it correct.... the window was stuck enough that the motor could not start the movement. I checked the 2 pin connector going to the window motor and it was getting +/- 11.5 volts using the switch. So I knew the controls/etc. were working. I losened the regulator and futz around and got it to start working. I guess that's it for now. Didn't really find the root cause. Taking the complete regulator/etc. out looks like huge PITA so I didn't go there. I bet the regulator is not that well aligned with the door frame because the motor slows down in mid motion on the way up.

If you decide to go the route of someday replacing the regulator, motor, and track assemblies, its not too bad, just prep and patience. I replaced all 4 which I purchased from 1A Auto. I think they have a video to help out, as well as YT.