My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

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los2050sp

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I used a self tapper into the third row seat frame. Easy to run the ground cable out of the front of the cargo tray and right into the space under the third row seat. It’s invisible and doesn’t interfere with the seat mechanism.
Where did you run the power cable through the fire wall ? Pics?
 

SavageDad

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That's the price that it gave me ($122), but the shipping was something like $80. If you get the whole thing <$200, you've done well. Good luck!!
FYI for anybody still looking at these you can skip the $80 shipping and buy this bad boy on Amazon for $148.85 right now and free shipping.

ACDelco GM Original Equipment 84877614 Rear Compartment Speaker https://a.co/d/5DBFkOf
 

2023SSMRST

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Hi All - In the process of getting parts together to install the JL Stealthbox in my 2023 RST. I have the 9 speaker Bose (non dash speaker), and am trying to confirm what T harness I need.

I found one form PAC but it says it’s not compatible with my car. Can someone confirm what T harness they’ve used and share a link?


Pic of my car for attention!
 

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Kpwweb

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Hi All - In the process of getting parts together to install the JL Stealthbox in my 2023 RST. I have the 9 speaker Bose (non dash speaker), and am trying to confirm what T harness I need.

I found one form PAC but it says it’s not compatible with my car. Can someone confirm what T harness they’ve used and share a link?


Pic of my car for attention!
I am trying this one:


Disclaimer—not installed yet, and I am still waiting for the ANC disconnect harness.

Hopefully install everything this weekend.
 

BigRedRST

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Some pics of my completed conversion, I had posted the details on conversion and mores pics in a different thread. 2023 Yukon XL SLT 3.0L diesel w/MaxTow pkg, 22" wheels, SLT Premium pkg.
I know this is an older post, but how much was the front row conversion? I have a Tahoe RST and I would love to have a 9th seat. Where did you find the parts, and how did you get matching upholstery?
 

kerlyb

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I am trying this one:


Disclaimer—not installed yet, and I am still waiting for the ANC disconnect harness.

Hopefully install everything this weekend.
If anyone wants to add subwoofer to their GM SUV w/ Bose system, I have a new T-harness for 2014-2024 Bose R2G if anyone is interested. $60 shipped. Just PM me.

Sorry but I don't have the minimum posts needed to list in Classifieds section.
 
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BigdawgR6

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I decided to go with the stealth box, I don’t have time to fart around with mating a speaker to the Escalade box.

The LC2i almost threw me for a loop - when I was setting the sub level it kept clipping really early until I realized the main level out was also up… they should have you turn that down in the instructions.

it took a good 15-30 minutes to set the accubass, loc out levels, and the amp input level. I used an ANC termination harness.. worked like a charm. I left the loc knob by the jack access since I don’t foresee adjusting it all the time.

Sounds fantastic. Let me know if anyone has any questions.
With ANC disabled, is the cabin noise any different? I enjoy a drive without music or played low every now and then. Just wondering how much of difference this makes.
 

Kpwweb

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With ANC disabled, is the cabin noise any different? I enjoy a drive without music or played low every now and then. Just wondering how much of difference this makes.
For me, it was a good thing. I used an ANC harness, so it can go back to stock when it is traded.

Things I noticed: engine sound is louder. But I enjoy the V8.
Wind noise: seems to be no difference.
Road noose: maybe a smidge louder, but my A/T tires are relatively loud anyway so it is hard to tell.

Biggest difference is I don’t seem to get as tired or sleepy on long drives. Don’t know if it was the ANC, “pressure” from the speakers fighting the noise, or what.

I tend to like a sensory driving experience. I want to know what my vehicle is doing. In the end, I couldn’t tell much difference except the engine noise is better.
 

iamlegion

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For me, it was a good thing. I used an ANC harness, so it can go back to stock when it is traded.

Things I noticed: engine sound is louder. But I enjoy the V8.
Wind noise: seems to be no difference.
Road noose: maybe a smidge louder, but my A/T tires are relatively loud anyway so it is hard to tell.

Biggest difference is I don’t seem to get as tired or sleepy on long drives. Don’t know if it was the ANC, “pressure” from the speakers fighting the noise, or what.

I tend to like a sensory driving experience. I want to know what my vehicle is doing. In the end, I couldn’t tell much difference except the engine noise is better.
What he said

One rainy day I need to do a back to back drive and see. The irony for me is my truck is 98% exclusively used for long haul family trips, so the no ANC is irrelevant because all the kids have headphones in 24x7 and I can’t crank my music without annoying a car full of people so I only get to enjoy my hard work maybe once every couple months when I’m driving it alone ‍♂️
 

BigdawgR6

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For me, it was a good thing. I used an ANC harness, so it can go back to stock when it is traded.

Things I noticed: engine sound is louder. But I enjoy the V8.
Wind noise: seems to be no difference.
Road noose: maybe a smidge louder, but my A/T tires are relatively loud anyway so it is hard to tell.

Biggest difference is I don’t seem to get as tired or sleepy on long drives. Don’t know if it was the ANC, “pressure” from the speakers fighting the noise, or what.

I tend to like a sensory driving experience. I want to know what my vehicle is doing. In the end, I couldn’t tell much difference except the engine noise is better.
Thanks you both for your feedback. My daughters are usually connected to their iPads on long drives. For me personally, I didn't want to lose out on the "luxury" side of a quiet cabin. Doesn't seem like I will and if so, it's minor. Thanks fellas
 

lakaw

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I decided to go with the stealth box, I don’t have time to fart around with mating a speaker to the Escalade box.

The LC2i almost threw me for a loop - when I was setting the sub level it kept clipping really early until I realized the main level out was also up… they should have you turn that down in the instructions.

it took a good 15-30 minutes to set the accubass, loc out levels, and the amp input level. I used an ANC termination harness.. worked like a charm. I left the loc knob by the jack access since I don’t foresee adjusting it all the time.

Sounds fantastic. Let me know if anyone has any questions.
Can you please share your final LC2I settings? I am leaning in this direction.
 

iamlegion

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Can you please share your final LC2I settings? I am leaning in this direction.
I pretty much used this:
. I’m trying to attach where I think I left mine. I strongly suggest you get a multimeter and tune your amp based on output voltage.

If you’re new to audio stuff a few tips that may help:
- load select this is the resistance on the high level inputs to make sure to trick the stock amp there’s still a speaker attached. 60 ohm IIRC
- trigger mode, what logic does amp turn on with. I believe the middle option is relatively intelligent
- ground - depends how your power grounds are run
- accubass level - how much OEM bass coming in before the converter kicks in - read the manual but set it as low as you want if you want the sub always on, or a tad higher if you don’t want the sub on during podcasts for example
- threshold - this is the one to get right - this is where you start cranking bass heavy music and once you get the volume to where the bass isn’t increasing in the car speakers you turn threshold dial until the light comes on. This is key to getting the lc2 to add bass in the stock system would taper off. This plays into the last one:
- level - this is how much bass output it adds. This will depend on how good/big your sub is and will determine how hard the signal output drives the speaker. I have remote knobs for the lc2i and my JL amp so I set the level about 10% over my usual max then use the knobs based on preference

Once I did that there was only a little fine tuning once the amp was connected. I set bass heavy music to 75% volume then tuned the amp level and lc2i level to get the proper target amp output voltage for my sub
.

1735696866133.jpeg
 

lakaw

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I pretty much used this:
. I’m trying to attach where I think I left mine. I strongly suggest you get a multimeter and tune your amp based on output voltage.

If you’re new to audio stuff a few tips that may help:
- load select this is the resistance on the high level inputs to make sure to trick the stock amp there’s still a speaker attached. 60 ohm IIRC
- trigger mode, what logic does amp turn on with. I believe the middle option is relatively intelligent
- ground - depends how your power grounds are run
- accubass level - how much OEM bass coming in before the converter kicks in - read the manual but set it as low as you want if you want the sub always on, or a tad higher if you don’t want the sub on during podcasts for example
- threshold - this is the one to get right - this is where you start cranking bass heavy music and once you get the volume to where the bass isn’t increasing in the car speakers you turn threshold dial until the light comes on. This is key to getting the lc2 to add bass in the stock system would taper off. This plays into the last one:
- level - this is how much bass output it adds. This will depend on how good/big your sub is and will determine how hard the signal output drives the speaker. I have remote knobs for the lc2i and my JL amp so I set the level about 10% over my usual max then use the knobs based on preference

Once I did that there was only a little fine tuning once the amp was connected. I set bass heavy music to 75% volume then tuned the amp level and lc2i level to get the proper target amp output voltage for my sub
.

View attachment 446277
Thank you!!
 

Wattage2004

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INCORRECT INFO. PLEASE READ. There is something I need to correct in the 2nd paragraph concerning the 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on connection for the remote turn on and off the amp function. As it turns out, the “Brown” wire, that I mentioned, is not a suitable candidate for this function after all. The presence of the 12VDC, on that wire, goes away shortly after moving the vehicle. As long as the vehicle remains in PARK, the 12VDC is present. My apologies to anyone that may have followed my lead on using that Brown wire as “switched accessory power”. Sorry about that. I did not mislead you on purpose. As a replacement, for that switched power source, I ran a wire and tied into the 12VDC violet wire leading to the front console cigarette lighter socket. So, if you are looking for “switched accessory power”, Don’t use the Brown wire, as shown in the photos, and as I mentioned above.
What’s the easiest way to access the violet wire for the cigarette lighter without taking apart the entire console/dash?
 

iamlegion

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lakaw

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No problem. I’m going to pull everything out again this weekend and put one of these in: https://www.grainger.com/product/IDEAL-Toggle-Switch-3-Position-1XWT1.

I’m going to have one position connect the JL amp to signal, the other position disconnects the amp and reconnects the car microphones, and neutral position disconnects both.

I want to be able to have the sub on with no ANC hum or ANC working with no
Sub.
So you are noticing a hum with this setup?
 

iamlegion

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So you are noticing a hum with this setup?
No, I currently have a harness in line to the Bose amp that’s terminating the microphones to prevent the hum. If you have an ANC equipped model you will need one as well.

What I’m doing and explaining for you to consider is having a new ANC bypass harness made that actually passes along the ANC lines, BUT I’m cutting those and wiring them through a relay. I’m wiring the relay and the amp signal wires to a 2 way switch, when I flip the switch one way my sub amp will be on and the ANC lines will be disabled by the relay. When I flip the switch the other way it’ll disconnect the sub and and trigger the relay to connect the ANC lines.

The result is I want to be able to blast my sub without ANC feedback but when the family is in long drives I can disable the sub and have a little ANC relief for long drives.

You don’t have to do all that, but it’s something to consider before you pull all your panels out and install everything.
 

lakaw

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On your LC2i Pro, did the GTO setting work for signal detection? Or did you use a standard remote turn on?
 

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