My 2022 Tahoe Bose Audio Mods

[Max2013]

Like many of you, when I get a new car/truck I am compelled to do something to it. So I researched this forum and found all the threads on upgrading the Bose Audio system. Some people found the factory Bose system to be lacking at the subwoofer level. I found the bass to be marginal, not bad on some songs, and not enough on others. What I really found to be missing was the high frequencies, you know, the sizzling of the cymbals and the crisp clicks on the hi-hats. That might just be because I have a loss of high frequency hearing caused by a Fender Dual-Showman back in the 60’s. Before I get cranked up, let me thank JohnnyFamous, Sinewave, and all of the other forum members that provided so much needed information about their mods and installation.​

To make all of this easier to digest, I am going to divide my activities into a few parts (posts)…..PART-1 Speaker Wiring. I picked up the PAC Audio Speaker Connection Harness Kit APH-GM02. Now, as you know, getting to the Bose amp, in the 2021/2022 models is kind of rough on an old man like me. I only intended to do it once, so I extended the length of the Pac connector leads, as you can see in the photos. That allowed me to fiddle with the wiring thru the rectangle fuse box opening in the rear. As others have done, I ran a test frequency to all speakers to make sure that I knew what was what. I also measured the DC resistance of the speakers. FYI, h

ere are some photos and diagrams

 

[Max2013]

Part-2 Replaced Front Center Speaker with a tweeter. I used the BZRK Audio SST-160 Titanium Bullet Super Tweeter and mounted it on an old front center speaker frame. That tweeter really improved the high frequency response for me. It would be really easy for you to make your own bracket for this tweeter. I just happened to have an old speaker so I used the frame and the factory connector.

 

[Max2013]

Part-3 Added a Small Amp. After some trial & error and other experiments, I added a 2-channel 40 watt amp (JVC KS-AX202) and connected it to two 6”inch subs. I used the factory subwoofer speaker output (there is only one output, no left & right) and connected it (in parallel) to the speaker level (high) inputs of the amp. I bridged the amp outputs and wound up with a single sixty watt subwoofer output to my two 6”inch subs, wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. One might ask, why use six inch subs. And the answer is, because I had a pair in my spare parts closet for the last four or five years. Why not give ‘em a shot? Now, if I had not already had those 6” subs, I would have gone with an 8” or 10”subwoofer(s). My end goal was to put the box between the passenger seats and not in the cargo area

 

[Max2013]

Part-4 Power Supply. I bought a package of 40A Mcase fuses and used one to make a connector to access the rear fuse block. I used the empty fuse F21 Position to provide power. The F21 empty fuse slot was made for a 40A fuse so I felt comfortable tying in at that point for power. I added an in-line fuse holder and I am currently using a 10A fuse in it to power my small amp.​

My small amp, needed a 12VDC, hot-only-with-ignition-on, connection, for the remote (turn on and off the amp) function. I could not find one in X1, X2, or X3 connectors. While snooping around under the Tahoe right hand side quarter panel, I popped of a connector, near the rear, and checked it with the volt meter. I do not what the connector fed, but there was a BROWN wire that was dead, with the ignition off, and it was HOT, with the ignition ON. I tied into it and ran my wire almost straight up and into the right rear side panel, and then under the almost useless tool tray, and onto and into the left side panel where my amp was to be located.​

I mounted the amp, on a board using 1” plastic standoffs to provide an air space between the amp and the wood. The board & amp are tucked in the rear panel where a factory Subwoofer could/would have been for some other GM models. I added a few mounting screws to keep everything in place. The 8”X 8”X20” sub box sets in the floorboard between the rear passenger seats. It is tied down so it can’t slide around.

 

[Max2013]

Part-5 New Speakers. Will be updated after Christmas​

 

[NyquistRate]

I've read a little about the factory sub channel lowering power as volume increases. Have you measured for this "feature?"

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Good detailed write-up, so far. I hope that you achieve what you desire.

 

[Runninstuff]

Great write up. Won't you need a ANC bypass like they sell on lljcustoms.com? Could you have used a fuse tap for the 12V switched power?

 

[Max2013]

Great write up. Won't you need a ANC bypass like they sell on lljcustoms.com? Could you have used a fuse tap for the 12V switched power?

Not sure mine has the ANC. I have not experienced any unusual noise/sounds from the audio system while on the road. BTW, some folks, on our forum, have not spoken well of the customer service from that particular vendor. I did not find any 12V switched power in the rear fuse box. I could have missed it.

 

[Max2013]

I've read a little about the factory sub channel lowering power as volume increases. Have you measured for this "feature?"

I have read the same material that you reference. I tried to "listen" for that effect. If it did lower the bass volume, I really couldn't detect it. I might drag my o'scope out there one day and see what I can see.

 

[Runninstuff]

Not sure mine has the ANC. I have not experienced any unusual noise/sounds from the audio system while on the road. BTW, some folks, on our forum, have not spoken well of the customer service from that particular vendor. I did not find any 12V switched power in the rear fuse box. I could have missed it.

Just curious how you tied in to the MCASE fuse?

 

[Max2013]

Step # 1 for the Mcase power tie-in was to buy a five fuse package from Amazon. Use a small blade jeweler screwdriver, or equivalent, and pry off the opaque cover. It is easier, if first you use a small blade to remove the two melted buttons that protrude thru the cover. Remove the internal prongs and fuse assy. Cut out the fuse and attach a wire to the hot side prong. I used an uninsulated butt splice with a a small section of stripped wire inserted at the end. The added wire acted as a filler to hold the end of the prong in place for soldering. Before soldering clean/scrape the end of the prong to ensure a good connection. Place both prongs back into the case as you found them. The un-used prong helps stabilize the fuse once it is inserted. Clip out a small section of the opaque cover for the wire to pass thru. You may need to trim out some plastic here and there to obtain the best alignment. Once you are happy with it, place the opaque cover back down and use a little superglue along the edges and on top where the plastic buttons were removed. I did this on three fuses before I got one I was happy with. Hopefully, somebody will come up with an add-a-fuse kit for the Mcase fuses before long. My initial attempt was to use an empty fuse slot and tie in with a spade connector but I could not get one to connect as tightly as I wanted. The standard sized spade connectors are either too big or too small.

 

[CASTLEDFW15]

Since with most if not all modern technolgy, removing/replacing. head unit is out of the question. Good to know that at least Amps/Subs and speakers are still readily accessible.

I have always said……..’It doesn’t matter what high end stereo system you have….iff the sound is being pushed through $5.99 speakers..the effect is lost or very negligible.

 

[yukon-xl]

Part-5 New Speakers. Will be updated after Christmas​

Do you have a 9 speaker Bose in your Tahoe? (with one original 5.5" subwoofer under center console)

 

[Max2013]

Do you have a 9 speaker Bose in your Tahoe? (with one original 5.5" subwoofer under center console)

My Bose system has a total of 10 speakers including the small subwoofer located under the center console.

 

[yukon-xl]

Do you have a subwoofer in the back as well, behind left rear panel in cargo area?

I have 9 speaker Bose, 2 on dash, 2 on front doors, 2 on rear doors, 2 in 3rd row side panels, and one subwoofer in center console. I think your 10th is center dash speaker, correct?

I think Yukon Denali has 13 and may have a subwoofer in the back and subwoofer in console.

I had to install front center seat and remove console along with subwoofer that was under console. Because the shape of the box that holds the 6” Bose woofer is odd and too long and does not fit under the center seat now. I am wondering if I can install a Bose woofer in the back left rear panel where Denali Bose system has one. Either my original small 6” or if it has to be larger I could buy the correct size that goes in the back panel. But I want to keep it original without adding aftermarket amp, basically move woofer from under console to the back left rear panel location and if needed get a correct size but still Bose brand and so the stock Bose amp can handle it. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

 

[Max2013]

Do you have a subwoofer in the back as well, behind left rear panel in cargo area?

I have 9 speaker Bose, 2 on dash, 2 on front doors, 2 on rear doors, 2 in 3rd row side panels, and one subwoofer in center console. I think your 10th is center dash speaker, correct?

I think Yukon Denali has 13 and may have a subwoofer in the back and subwoofer in console.

I had to install front center seat and remove console along with subwoofer that was under console. Because the shape of the box that holds the 6” Bose woofer is odd and too long and does not fit under the center seat now. I am wondering if I can install a Bose woofer in the back left rear panel where Denali Bose system has one. Either my original small 6” or if it has to be larger I could buy the correct size that goes in the back panel. But I want to keep it original without adding aftermarket amp, basically move woofer from under console to the back left rear panel location and if needed get a correct size but still Bose brand and so the stock Bose amp can handle it. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!

Yes, my 10th speaker is the center dash speaker. To install a small subwoofer into the rear driver side panel is possible. It might be challenging to make your own suitable enclosure for that spot however. You could explore the rear sub/parts used on some 2021/2022 GMC Yukon Denali models and purchase that speaker and housing. That would involve removing the left rear panel. A little time consuming but very do-able. Google this “GM 84776627” for a start. I believe this is the GMC part you need. It would be of a great help, to you and others, if someone that has the Denali rear subwoofer would pop off the rear fuse box cover and post a few photos of the subwoofer. Another practical possibility would be to purchase a small enclosure suitable for the Bose subwoofer you have removed. You would just need to find a suitable location for it. You might look into the shallow sub enclosures that will fit under your seats as well. There are many of those available on the web.

 

[yukon-xl]

Thank you for the suggestions, one of my friends have a 2021 Denali so I will ask him if I can take a look at it. Thank you for the part number, I will see if I can find a used one. I also tried to put the original box from under the console in trunk under the floor into the storage compartments and it almost fits, just a little too tall.

 

[yukon-xl]

I found someone posted a Yukon Denali picture with the small cover removed showing the rear fuse box and portion of original bose subwoofer that is to the right of the fuse box behind the right rear panel. Attached. My OEM Bose subwoofer box that was under the center console has about 6" speaker there, and I believe the Yukon Denali rear oem bose box has a larger, like around 8" speaker. I wonder if my bose system will handle that or if I need to compare the interior volume of each box to see if Denali box is larger in volume, and install my 6" speaker with some bracket/spacer into the Denali box and also fill in the denali box to make it comparable in interior volume to my Suburban oem box... Bose website does not give out the specification of the power/wattage of the subwoofer or their interior volume.

 

[Lancecc1]

Part-3 Added a Small Amp. After some trial & error and other experiments, I added a 2-channel 40 watt amp (JVC KS-AX202) and connected it to two 6”inch subs. I used the factory subwoofer speaker output (there is only one output, no left & right) and connected it (in parallel) to the speaker level (high) inputs of the amp. I bridged the amp outputs and wound up with a single sixty watt subwoofer output to my two 6”inch subs, wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. One might ask, why use six inch subs. And the answer is, because I had a pair in my spare parts closet for the last four or five years. Why not give ‘em a shot? Now, if I had not already had those 6” subs, I would have gone with an 8” or 10”subwoofer(s). My end goal was to put the box between the passenger seats and not in the cargo area

Great write up!! I have a question on this particular step. I'm thinking of adding the new JL Stealthbox to my 21 Tahoe (https://www.jlaudio.com/products/sb-gm-5gsuv-10tw3-car-audio-stealthbox-94698). Could I get away with only using the X1 harness or do you think it's easier to just go with a hi/lo converter and pull the signal from speakers? I've done the latter multiple times with no issues. Thanks in advance!!