2013 Z71 Suburban for Overlanding - tire/suspension input request

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jeffm333

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This winter I picked up a 2013 z71 Suburban to outfit as an Overlanding and long distance/duration road trip vehicle. I have the interior, solar, sleeping and storage platforms, cabinetry, fridge, house batteries, shore power/inverter setup complete and have been doing some light traveling. (I’ll post pics of the full buildout eventually for the Overlanding crowd).

She has some transmission/torque converter woes creeping up I am having to deal with sooner than I wanted, so figure while the vehicle is down it’s a good time to do the suspension.

Primary goal is increase ground clearance as for when I am hsing on BLM and National Forest access/logging roads, with the occasionally more challenging off-roading in the desert or mountains. I’m not rock crawling, but want to be good in the snow in winter and able to get to almost all the places I could get to with the 2002 leveled/lifted tahoe z71 with stock size KO2’s on it. (Sadly longer wheelbase and worse approach angles on a suburban will be limiting, but I wanted the extra space so went with the suburban this time). The vehicle sees a ton of pavement though too - lots of cross country highway miles.

Ground clearance for off-roading currently seems pretty poor (I can barely slide under the truck for an oil change and I’m a thin guy). The current suspension components are original and the ride is currently horrid; they need attention now anyway. After extensive reading here and elsewhere, this seems like a typical solution: replace the shocks (billstein 5100’s? Maybe rough country lit or Rancho?) and level the front up 2”-2.5”, and bring the rear up maybe 1” or whatever is needed to make it near-level. I’d like to go with just slightly larger tires, most likely BFG AT KO2 10-ply tires. I want to avoid having to drop the diff or modify other steering components thus limiting the lift size. Atleast for now :).

If I can get back to Tennessee before the transmission gives out I can do a lot myself. But currently I’m in Nevada and most likely will just have it done here. (If any of you are in Reno or Vegas area and know reputable shops I’m open to input)

Anyone have some experience on lifting the gmt900 suburbans and increasing their off-road clearance and capability a bit?

With the Overlanding build out, the truck is also heavier than the average suburban. Even with all the seats and numerous panels out of the vehicle, she probably has the equivalent of about 500lbs of cargo at all times… so I’m also interested in any thoughts on suspension component upgrades that would help with managing the ride with a heavier cargo load.

Thanks for getting This far in my long post!
 

Doubeleive

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This winter I picked up a 2013 z71 Suburban to outfit as an Overlanding and long distance/duration road trip vehicle. I have the interior, solar, sleeping and storage platforms, cabinetry, fridge, house batteries, shore power/inverter setup complete and have been doing some light traveling. (I’ll post pics of the full buildout eventually for the Overlanding crowd).

She has some transmission/torque converter woes creeping up I am having to deal with sooner than I wanted, so figure while the vehicle is down it’s a good time to do the suspension.

Primary goal is increase ground clearance as for when I am hsing on BLM and National Forest access/logging roads, with the occasionally more challenging off-roading in the desert or mountains. I’m not rock crawling, but want to be good in the snow in winter and able to get to almost all the places I could get to with the 2002 leveled/lifted tahoe z71 with stock size KO2’s on it. (Sadly longer wheelbase and worse approach angles on a suburban will be limiting, but I wanted the extra space so went with the suburban this time). The vehicle sees a ton of pavement though too - lots of cross country highway miles.

Ground clearance for off-roading currently seems pretty poor (I can barely slide under the truck for an oil change and I’m a thin guy). The current suspension components are original and the ride is currently horrid; they need attention now anyway. After extensive reading here and elsewhere, this seems like a typical solution: replace the shocks (billstein 5100’s? Maybe rough country lit or Rancho?) and level the front up 2”-2.5”, and bring the rear up maybe 1” or whatever is needed to make it near-level. I’d like to go with just slightly larger tires, most likely BFG AT KO2 10-ply tires. I want to avoid having to drop the diff or modify other steering components thus limiting the lift size. Atleast for now :).

If I can get back to Tennessee before the transmission gives out I can do a lot myself. But currently I’m in Nevada and most likely will just have it done here. (If any of you are in Reno or Vegas area and know reputable shops I’m open to input)

Anyone have some experience on lifting the gmt900 suburbans and increasing their off-road clearance and capability a bit?

With the Overlanding build out, the truck is also heavier than the average suburban. Even with all the seats and numerous panels out of the vehicle, she probably has the equivalent of about 500lbs of cargo at all times… so I’m also interested in any thoughts on suspension component upgrades that would help with managing the ride with a heavier cargo load.

Thanks for getting This far in my long post!
you could probably save yourself a whole bunch of money and hassle buy just buying this one
 

Dustin Jackson

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@jeffm333 Welcome to the family!

Bilstein 5100s are the way to go, do not go with anything less.

Get Moog 81244 springs for the front and Moog 81069 springs for the rear.

Get a 1 inch aluminum spacer for the front and the rear.

Those heavy duty springs and spacers will give about 2-2.5 inches of lift, just enough for ground clearance and fitting larger tires without needing rework the rest of the suspension to accommodate a lifted suspension.

Get 33 inch KO2 tires on your factory wheels and send it.

Other ways to gain ground clearance would be to get offroad style bumpers and get rid of running board and steps.
 
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jeffm333

jeffm333

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This is perfect concise input - thank you very much. This being a z71 model… any idea how the mood 80069 I’m the rears compare to the z71 rear springs?

Aftermarket bumpers, winch, and removing the factory step rails also potential future endeavors… I figure the step rails might come off naturally; I tore the ones off my 2002 tahoe z71 pushing the limits off-road on a couple of occasions. :)

I’m a little concerned on the beefiness required to winch a loaded down suburban…. And a little concerned aftermarket bumpers and winch will add some Significant weight… so will wait to explore those mods after I have the basics dialed in.
 

Dustin Jackson

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@jeffm333 They are supposed to be the same but my z71 came with lowering springs so I never had the opportunity to compare them myself.
 

87carl

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Another option to look at for rear springs is skyjacker c25r they're for 2.5 inch rear lift over a non z71 stock height. I have the 5 inch lift version skyjacker springs in my suburban and always have atleast 500 pounds of tools in the way back and it handles the weight. Some people also use hummer h2 springs also for a small lift
 

Tozan

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DO NOT GO TO FOLBECK 4 wheel IN RENO They will screw you and they do not stand behind their work at all... I paid them 15 grand to customize my truck and a few months later when their gearing job started making noise they would not stand behind their work... I had to pay another shop to redo both differentials. They also did very poor workmanship.

If you want some overland ideas check out my build thread in my signature below.
 

jcsswix

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I suggest going with the Fox 2.0 setup if you want the best bang for your buck. They're going to be better than the Bilsteins and they're not super expensive. That paired with Dobinson's 2" lift rear springs (NO SPACERS required) and some Cognito uppers and you'll be in the money. I've done some serious off-roading with the setup and have never had issues. Comfortable on and off road. I do have other upgraded suspension components but even when I had just the 2.0's and UCA's it was super capable. Check out my build and friend me on instagram @j.c.s.a

PXL_20230716_134608971.jpg
 

Marshall 008

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As many will say and myself included. Don’t go cheap on suspension. I installed the 5100’s with the Moogs and didn’t care for them. The ride was good but was limited. If your going to add stuff in the future then lay the foundation now.
I ended up going with Fox 2.5’s adjustable coil overs, Dirt King UCA’s, and custom made rear lift springs to accommodate additional weight for rear tire carrier, roof rack, etc. I would first try to figure out what your long term goals are. That way you might not have to do things twice.
 

Trey Hardy

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I second the above. I’ve had 5100s on all my previous trucks and been happy but on my Tahoe not so much I run icons because I got them for a deal but kings are supposed to the top notch foxs are good also. The coil overs and upper control arms will make the biggest difference and going from normal extended control arms to uniballs with more travel definitely helped the ride quality and handing.
My setup is fairly simple
Dirt king fab locking alignment cams
Fabtech uniball uca
Cut the bump stops
Icon 2.0 coil overs
Kryptonite wheel bearing and lower ball joint and sway bar links
I’m lifted around 8” though
The rear is just a simple adjustable panhard Bar to center the rearend and trailing arm drop brackets
 
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Tozan

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I have longer travel King suspension on mine just over 10 inches of travel running 35's ground clearance is very good and ride quality is great..
 
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For the front Fox 2.0’s with a new UCA are a great option to get you out there. I’ve really enjoyed my setup, but depending on your driving/terrain you may be looking for a set of 2.5’s like I find myself now.

Depending on the weight you added or plan to add in the rear you may deal with sag even with lift springs. I came across these Dobinson rear springs at Baseline Overland that I’m hoping will solve the sag.


Look forward to seeing pictures of your build!
 

mrpeterclark

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Here's ours. Don't need to do all of this to get out there and enjoy it. I would recommend a 2-2.5" front lift and upper control arms to correct the ball joint angle, a decent rear shock, and I'm a fan of the dobinsons 2" lift springs. I changed to the constant load option with the addition of the rear bumper and weight pushing the weight of the spare back etc.
Happy to answer any questions. We specialize in outfitting suburbans.

Here is our suspension setup:
· Icon 2.5 Coil Overs at 2.5" lift front (71555c) [reservoirs w/ compression adjusters]
· Icon 2.0 rear shocks (76526)
· Cognito Upper Control Arms
· Napa Extended Travel CV Axles
· Moog Hubs
· Kryptonite Upper and lower ball joints and tie rod ends.
· Dobinson 2" lift 660-880 lb. constant load rear springs (C09-037)
· Air Lift helper bags (60913 for Dobinson springs)
· SDE magneride and autoride delete shockdeletes.com
You can find my full build list on this forum or here.
IMG_7517.jpg
 

Coveman

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This is perfect concise input - thank you very much. This being a z71 model… any idea how the mood 80069 I’m the rears compare to the z71 rear springs?

Aftermarket bumpers, winch, and removing the factory step rails also potential future endeavors… I figure the step rails might come off naturally; I tore the ones off my 2002 tahoe z71 pushing the limits off-road on a couple of occasions. :)

I’m a little concerned on the beefiness required to winch a loaded down suburban…. And a little concerned aftermarket bumpers and winch will add some Significant weight… so will wait to explore those mods after I have the basics dialed in.
 

Coveman

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I think the gmt900 approach and departure angles are going to be a limiting factor. I wheeled my gmt400 burb over the Imogene pass (“jeep trail”) no problem but I’m sure I’d have dragged the 2013’s air dam and probably the front plastic bumper on the trail. I have a feeling the spare will drag significantly as well (the hitch on the 1999 made ground contact but the spare was mounted inside the truck). My ‘13 burb has a 2 1/2” RC lift and working under it is a breeze but I think It’ll still have significantly more approach/departure contact than my 99.
 

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