2005 Suburban Brakes Issue?

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Puncake

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So I recently got my Suburban and have been having an issue where when I come to a full stop and then go, the front brakes stick and TCS activates to get going again after I go, but it doesn't do it until I'm stopped again, and when it's parked for a few minutes, it goes back to normal. Yesterday I also took the front left wheel off, took the brakes off, and stuff. It helped, but I went back to the same as before after a while. Just wondering if anyone has a possible solution.

It has brand new brake pads on it as well
 

B-train

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How full is the master cylinder? Is it possibly causing pressure as it heats up due to being overfilled?

When you did brakes, how were the slides, hardware, etc for cleanliness and free movement? Did you Crack the bleeder to release the caliper piston, or just pushnit back upstream? It used to be a big NO-NO to do the latter on earlier ABS systems. Newer seem more forgiving, but still not the preferred method.

Just trying to get an idea of the condition and procedure. Sometimes the ABS modules get dirty check valves and they can either hang up or bypass.
 
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Puncake

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The master cylinder is filled a little under the max, but everything looked almost new except for some of the lines, which were rusty, which is typical for where I live. I could possibly go later today and try to release some pressure in it, but I haven't tried that yet.
 

OR VietVet

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What lights are on at the dash? First thoughts are a wheel speed sensor is acting up. Check all wiring to those sensors. Is the vehicle in a salt on roads/rusty area? Brand new pads where? Front and rear? Problem since the new pads?
 
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Puncake

Puncake

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What lights are on at the dash? First thoughts are a wheel speed sensor is acting up. Check all wiring to those sensors. Is the vehicle in a salt on roads/rusty area? Brand new pads where? Front and rear? Problem since the new pads?
There is no light except the check engine light for an evap issue, and over the winter it was on fairly salty roads the whole time, and it has new front pads, and I haven't noticed the issue this bad until now.
 

Sam Harris

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What lights are on at the dash? First thoughts are a wheel speed sensor is acting up. Check all wiring to those sensors. Is the vehicle in a salt on roads/rusty area? Brand new pads where? Front and rear? Problem since the new pads?
First thing I thought of as well. Those speed sensors cause interesting problems, when they aren’t able to fully detect the reluctor ring. I’m actually kinda glad I don’t have stabilitrak. Lol.
 

Sam Harris

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There is no light except the check engine light for an evap issue, and over the winter it was on fairly salty roads the whole time, and it has new front pads, and I haven't noticed the issue this bad until now.
Since the CEL has been lit previously, have you verified today / yesterday, etc.. that there are no additional codes? When this occurs, do you get any indication on the cluster? (Service stability, for example)
 

Sam Harris

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I don't get any other codes or popups; it's just the light for the evap system.
What about the brake bleeding process when you did your pads? Hope there’s no air in the lines, or especially the ABS module.
 

OR VietVet

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You are going to need a scanner like a Tech II to bleed system properly. If you didn't open the system it likely does not have air in the system but to collapse the pistons back may have caused a problem. Was this current problem happening before the front pads were replaced?
 
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Puncake

Puncake

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You are going to need a scanner like a Tech II to bleed system properly. If you didn't open the system it likely does not have air in the system but to collapse the pistons back may have caused a problem. Was this current problem happening before the front pads were replaced?
No, it only started a little after I replaced the brakes.
 

S33k3r

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Dumb question (sorry): But did you get the correct thickness pads? If the pads are too thick, the brake fluid expanding would then cause them to stick -- right? Just a thought -- not a brake system expert.
 

B-train

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Good point @OR VietVet there was a TSB about corrosion under the speed sensor for that generation truck. Knowing about the salt helps support that. You could inspect where they mount after they are removed. Just be sure to put a rag in the hole before chipping any rust off.
 

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Couple of suggestions. Make sure the caliper slides are lubed and the calipers are free to move sideways slightly. They should "float" back and forth (side to side).

Also, the flexible brake hoses can collapse inside and allow fluid to build pressure TO the caliper (as in the braking action) but not allow the calipers to retract. Solution for that is to change the flex hoses.
 

Gene456

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Hey I am a new guy on here. I have a similar issue. I’m in the rust prone area of the world. The wheel bearing seems tight to me. I have not had the brakes apart. I just bought it and the previous owner said wheel speed sensors. It’s possible. But from my experience the bolt doesn’t walk out. It more like snaps off and you end up replacing the bearing. I am hoping to hear what your fix is so I can start there. For me, if I push the traction control button, the Yukon will not have issues. If I leave it regular, after I leave the stop sign I will get the stability track message and it will make the buzzing sound. I’ll come on here if I fix it myself. But for now I’ll run it and let the problem present itself further.
 

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