What did you do to your 2015-2020 K2XX Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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That Bad Man

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This was last week...

GMC dealer performed a transmission pan drop and filter change. It only has 35k on it but I wanted to have a starting point as I bought it with 32k.

Service writer said it would be $300...It was $650. She had her manager take $250 off, so in the end it was $400.

I changed the front and rear diff as well as the transfer case. Dealer wanted $200 plus for each. I used all GM spec fluids.
 

AirJordan613

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This was last week...

GMC dealer performed a transmission pan drop and filter change. It only has 35k on it but I wanted to have a starting point as I bought it with 32k.

Service writer said it would be $300...It was $650. She had her manager take $250 off, so in the end it was $400.

I changed the front and rear diff as well as the transfer case. Dealer wanted $200 plus for each. I used all GM spec fluids.
Nothing wrong with doing the trans early. I tend not to like doing trans fluid myself either - can get messy. I do all the other fluids though.
 

MadMax_MFP

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Since I just took delivery I decided it was time to do an inspection from front to rear. Oil, filter, trans fluid, air filter and cabin filter all replaced. Pulled the front and rear tires to inspect the brakes and suspension and to see what will be involved in lowering, adding Brembo big front brakes, adding bigger sway bars along with replace the front and rear shocks. Took the left front inner fender out to take the pictures requested in the other thread regarding the PIT bar mounts. Same on both sides so I only posted the left side. Was going to wash and get more pictures but it is suppose to rain so I will clean up later.
 

Sparksalot

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Eureka!

Third time’s the charm for ditch light brackets for thethirdtwin. Third vendor’s product actually is correct for this rig. A little bit of travel rash, but THEY FIT.

2015-19 Chevy Tahoe Suburban Hood Ditch Light Mounts

829BCB89-AC41-42B1-86C2-35B46D4C363E.jpeg
 

89Suburban

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Bigkevschopshop

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Well, saw some residue on my front strut bodies, so decided to use the rest of the extended warranty. New front struts up front.

Finally got to the bottom of the steering wheel clicking noise. Upper column bearing and race fixed it.

Ride is some better, but having that clicking sound when turning right gone is amazing for sure.

Debating on keeping the burb or getting a grey 18 escalade... Tough call for sure, just not really wanting to give up 2.9% and a stupid low remainder balance vs higher balance and higher percent to finance. If I was to do the escalade, I would probably be getting rid of the wife's Q5 that she doesn't drive anyways. So frees up some finances for sure also. Tough calls all around... But the burb is about to roll 90k, so trying to figure things out before 100k as the depreciation is a big of a hit there or it used to be with companies not financing over 100k on vehicles.
 

Thrust

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Conky105

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Hello Danyi2170.
i need your help if possible.i bought the pulsar lt 22454 and i cant seem to disable the afm.i followed the directions in the manual that came with the tuner if you have any suggestions please feel free to share them. tks in advance
 

Danyi2170

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Hello Danyi2170.
i need your help if possible.i bought the pulsar lt 22454 and i cant seem to disable the afm.i followed the directions in the manual that came with the tuner if you have any suggestions please feel free to share them. tks in advance
I’m sure you have this, but here are the instructions again. It’s pretty straightforward. Nothing really to troubleshoot. Did you press the cancel cruise to “select” after selecting “10” for disable?
 

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