2018 yukon slt no start

[SPRINKS]

Push start randomly no start. No crank. Not click. Nothing. Vehicle qill work for cluple days or a week, then issue happens again. The Light's come on on dash but that's it. Push the button for the second time and turns lights off. Currently at the dealer for the 5th time now. They have replaced everything that has come up code wise. So far they have replaced a hood latch, fuel pump module, transmission module, and body control module. Dealer has been contacting GMC engineers and they are now scratching theirs heads/ not sure anymore... bought the vehicle used from a licensed dealer in February this year. It has been at the dealer more then I have had it.. GM customer care says to keep bringing it back... Any ideas?

 

[Doubeleive]

1. battery load test or just add it to the list of shotgun items and replace it if age is unknown, a bad cell or short in the battery could go un diagnosed
2. you really need a diagnostic tool attached when the problem occurs so you can see what is the cause
I think the dealer is taking you for a ride if they told you the latch, pump, trans module and bcm all came up as codes, looks like they are just guessing and have no idea
grounds need to be cleaned and checked and wiring harness inspected, fuse box inspected, ecm harness inspected. battery cables need to be load tested (checked for voltage drop).
if they are doing this under warranty great but they won't really dig for it unless they are being paid or the problem is discovered by failed part.

 

[SPRINKS]

1. battery load test or just add it to the list of shotgun items and replace it if age is unknown, a bad cell or short in the battery could go un diagnosed
2. you really need a diagnostic tool attached when the problem occurs so you can see what is the cause
I think the dealer is taking you for a ride if they told you the latch, pump, trans module and bcm all came up as codes, looks like they are just guessing and have no idea
grounds need to be cleaned and checked and wiring harness inspected, fuse box inspected, ecm harness inspected. battery cables need to be load tested (checked for voltage drop).
if they are doing this under warranty great but they won't really dig for it unless they are being paid or the problem is discovered by failed part.

Yes it's under warranty.. I will mention these thigs to them. I just fined it surprising that the GM engineers don't have an idea. Maybe I am getting screwed around?

 

[SPRINKS]

1. battery load test or just add it to the list of shotgun items and replace it if age is unknown, a bad cell or short in the battery could go un diagnosed
2. you really need a diagnostic tool attached when the problem occurs so you can see what is the cause
I think the dealer is taking you for a ride if they told you the latch, pump, trans module and bcm all came up as codes, looks like they are just guessing and have no idea
grounds need to be cleaned and checked and wiring harness inspected, fuse box inspected, ecm harness inspected. battery cables need to be load tested (checked for voltage drop).
if they are doing this under warranty great but they won't really dig for it unless they are being paid or the problem is discovered by failed part.

1 thing I forgot to mention is that when this does happen and it eventually starts, there is no "check engine" light.. would a code reader still pick something up if that was the case?

 

[Nashbar50]

I had a similar issue in my 2015 xl Denali. Does this normal occur when it's wet outside or been put through the car wash? I had both my blind spot sensors go bad and never got them fixed. They corroded as well as the wiring harness which caused all problems. All my sensor warnings lights cycled on, i had gauge errors and my truck wouldn't turn off or back on. So, if you have any sensors that are giving you trouble replace them. It solved my electrical issues.

 

[SPRINKS]

It's seems to happen regardless of the weather unfortunately... I'm thinking a pinched wire somewhere or grounds but not sure..

 

[Doubeleive]

1 thing I forgot to mention is that when this does happen and it eventually starts, there is no "check engine" light.. would a code reader still pick something up if that was the case?

no, but a diagnostic tool might, a decent 2-way tool like that runs in the $500+ range
unless it happens often enough for the dealer tech to witness it happening and is able to hook his tool up to it and look at what is happening then it's going to be on you for that part.
problems like this can be frustrating and until you find the source or whatever part fails entirely then it's going to be time consuming doing it yourself I have been there.....
i would start like I noted above battery, battery cables, grounds, harness are likely going to be the culprit if there is no flat out code.
could even be a bad starter, next time it won't start try jumping the starter relay or reach under and smack the starter with a hammer a couple times. i've had that happen before as well after screwing around replacing a bunch of stuff turned out the starter had a flat spot and would not work unless it was bumped, replaced starter never did it again.
when there is no code then you have to start looking at other analog causes.

 

[SPRINKS]

no, but a diagnostic tool might, a decent 2-way tool like that runs in the $500+ range
unless it happens often enough for the dealer tech to witness it happening and is able to hook his tool up to it and look at what is happening then it's going to be on you for that part.
problems like this can be frustrating and until you find the source or whatever part fails entirely then it's going to be time consuming doing it yourself I have been there.....
i would start like I noted above battery, battery cables, grounds, harness are likely going to be the culprit if there is no flat out code.
could even be a bad starter, next time it won't start try jumping the starter relay or reach under and smack the starter with a hammer a couple times. i've had that happen before as well after screwing around replacing a bunch of stuff turned out the starter had a flat spot and would not work unless it was bumped, replaced starter never did it again.
when there is no code then you have to start looking at other analog causes.

Very good information man! Appreciate it!! Will definitely notify the dealer of these items and try them on my own if I have to. I will keep you guys posted with the next update

 

[Doubeleive]

Very good information man! Appreciate it!! Will definitely notify the dealer of these items and try them on my own if I have to. I will keep you guys posted with the next update

they know about these possible causes, getting them to address it is a whole different thing.
what happens when it does not start? did you have it towed in? or did you try it until starts and then drop it off?

 

[SPRINKS]

they know about these possible causes, getting them to address it is a whole different thing.
what happens when it does not start? did you have it towed in? or did you try it until starts and then drop it off?

I have done both. Have had it Towed and also tried to start it for 20 min by pushing the push start repeatedly. Eventually it started after 15 min of pushing the push start button repeatedly. When it does not start, the first push of start button makes the dash come on normaly. Second push everything turns off. When it acts up like this, i did notice the horn will not beep when the key fob is pushed 2x to lock vehicle. And I also noticed, i went to open the back hatch, which opend fine (from pushing the hatch latch button itself (not the key fob). But when I went to close the hatch by pressing the button on the inside of the hatch, it would not close as if there was no power.. I had to manually pull it down to close. Not sure if that means anything but I figure at this point, anything out of the ordinary I should mention.

 

[Doubeleive]

I have done both. Have had it Towed and also tried to start it for 20 min by pushing the push start repeatedly. Eventually it started after 15 min of pushing the push start button repeatedly. When it does not start, the first push of start button makes the dash come on normaly. Second push everything turns off. When it acts up like this, i did notice the horn will not beep when the key fob is pushed 2x to lock vehicle. And I also noticed, i went to open the back hatch, which opend fine (from pushing the hatch latch button itself (not the key fob). But when I went to close the hatch by pressing the button on the inside of the hatch, it would not close as if there was no power.. I had to manually pull it down to close. Not sure if that means anything but I figure at this point, anything out of the ordinary I should mention.

I would start with checking the battery (have it load tested) many auto parts places will do it for free, as well as sears or any battery shop.
if the battery checks out, then have the battery cables looked at or checked, they can ohm check the cables and do a voltage drop test. the battery cables can do weird things even based on the ambient temperature if they are no good, also the battery cables have been known to corrode on the inside and look fine on the outside, not saying this is the case here but it should be noted. if it drives normal and operates normal other than those problems mentioned I would lean towards it being a power problem. maybe a bad ground. that's where I would start.
on my 2012 one of the signs of having low power I have noticed is the rear hatch will not close properly, that may not mean anything here but it is one thing I have noticed, these trucks are real finicky when the voltage is low and will do all kinds of weird stuff.

 

[SPRINKS]

I would start with checking the battery (have it load tested) many auto parts places will do it for free, as well as sears or any battery shop.
if the battery checks out, then have the battery cables looked at or checked, they can ohm check the cables and do a voltage drop test. the battery cables can do weird things even based on the ambient temperature if they are no good, also the battery cables have been known to corrode on the inside and look fine on the outside, not saying this is the case here but it should be noted. if it drives normal and operates normal other than those problems mentioned I would lean towards it being a power problem. maybe a bad ground. that's where I would start.
on my 2012 one of the signs of having low power I have noticed is the rear hatch will not close properly, that may not mean anything here but it is one thing I have noticed, these trucks are real finicky when the voltage is low and will do all kinds of weird stuff.

Very good information man! I have honestly learned more from you then the dealer/ GM has told me. I should give them your number and maybe you can teach them some new tricks. Much appreciated for all the ideas! I will certainly be letting them know and doing some myself when the time comes!

 

[Doubeleive]

Very good information man! I have honestly learned more from you then the dealer/ GM has told me. I should give them your number and maybe you can teach them some new tricks. Much appreciated for all the ideas! I will certainly be letting them know and doing some myself when the time comes!

they know all this stuff, they just won't check it all under warranty, gm only pays them to follow certain procedures if those procedures reveal nothing then they do not go any further. they will if you are paying out of pocket for the tech time usually $100-160hr in which case you can request them to do whatever you want.
they only check what they see happening as a code or is visibly broken. I took my truck in with a bad water pump that I could wiggle by hand, they said we'll have to check it out, lol
i took the service guy out popped the hood open and showed him, they had it fixed the same day. It's ridiculous sometimes.

 

[SPRINKS]

they know all this stuff, they just won't check it all under warranty, gm only pays them to follow certain procedures if those procedures reveal nothing then they do not go any further. they will if you are paying out of pocket for the tech time usually $100-160hr in which case you can request them to do whatever you want.
they only check what they see happening as a code or is visibly broken. I took my truck in with a bad water pump that I could wiggle by hand, they said we'll have to check it out, lol
i took the service guy out popped the hood open and showed him, they had it fixed the same day. It's ridiculous sometimes.

Little update. GM engineers are now going off of a similar issue they had in 2018 and suggesting to replace the fuse block as they have been known for corrosion and cause similar issue. My vehicle had this fix done back in 2018 at 7000km when it was new ( I did not own the vehicle then( bought the vehicle this year 2022). So basically replacing the same thing they did years ago... not sure if it's going to be the fix but time will tell. Currently waiting for the work to be done. Hoping it is the fix or GM does a buy back of the vehicle. I highly doubt I will get back what I paid for it if that's the case.

 

[Cody27]

Good morning, did this end up resolving your issue? I'm having the exact same issue with my 2015 yukon xl denali and I've tried everything mentioned in numerous threads with no luck. Really want to give it all I have before paying the dealer to screw me around....

 

[Crazy Jake]

I'm having the same issue with my 2018, I've done all the standard battery, starter and connection tests, hooked a code reader up while it is happening and all a no go. Did replacing the fuse block (was it the driver side fuse block?) Fix the issue?