What to inspect when buying a 2009 Escalade AWD?

[vinbart]

Hey guys, I'm going to get another look and test drive of the 09 Escalade that I mentioned before (the tan one, they claim that the CEL was fixed, but I'm waiting for the paperwork from the mechanic). I drove it once for a few minutes around town and it seems to drive appropriately.

What specific items should I be looking to make sure they work? I've got the "check the air suspension on key-on after sitting overnight, but what else (specific to a 2009 6.2 AWD Escalade that I might not be aware of) should I be looking for? Yes, the dash is cracked. It has 148k miles on the odo.

Thanks in advance!

 

[02Lightning]

A few off the top of my head
Motor mounts
rear air shocks blown
leaking transmission, and power steering lines
low oil pressure after warm
broken exhaust manifold bolts

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Make sure that you get to start the truck with a cold motor. Some sellers mask motor issues by starting the motor before you arrive, and then tell you that they wanted the truck warmed up (or cooled down) for your driving pleasure when you take it out for a test drive.

 

[intheburbs]

Front diff is special to the AWD Denali and EXPENSIVE to replace. Ask me how I know.

Check the fluid, put it on a rack, put it in neutral and spin everything. You'll need an assistant to hold the other wheel so you can spin the front diff. Listen for grindy crunchy noises and feel for any play.

 

[vinbart]

A few off the top of my head
Motor mounts
rear air shocks blown
leaking transmission, and power steering lines
low oil pressure after warm
broken exhaust manifold bolts

What should the oil pressure be when warm? I did that check already and it was something in the 24PSI range at 500-600rpm idle.

 

[vinbart]

Front diff is special to the AWD Denali and EXPENSIVE to replace. Ask me how I know.

Check the fluid, put it on a rack, put it in neutral and spin everything. You'll need an assistant to hold the other wheel so you can spin the front diff. Listen for grindy crunchy noises and feel for any play.

Short of getting it on a lift -- is there another way to check the front diff?

 

[swathdiver]

Hey guys, I'm going to get another look and test drive of the 09 Escalade that I mentioned before (the tan one, they claim that the CEL was fixed, but I'm waiting for the paperwork from the mechanic). I drove it once for a few minutes around town and it seems to drive appropriately.

What specific items should I be looking to make sure they work? I've got the "check the air suspension on key-on after sitting overnight, but what else (specific to a 2009 6.2 AWD Escalade that I might not be aware of) should I be looking for? Yes, the dash is cracked. It has 148k miles on the odo.

Thanks in advance!
View attachment 355195

Operate every switch and button, check all of the lights and put your Tech-2 on it and run a full system scan! ;-)

A fourteen year old truck is going to need a few thousand in repairs, cracked dash, worn out AC Actuators, Suspension rebuild, brakes rebuilt, broken switches, etc.

Enjoy that glorious L9H motor if you buy it!

 

[02Lightning]

What should the oil pressure be when warm? I did that check already and it was something in the 24PSI range at 500-600rpm idle.

24 PSI is fine.

 

[intheburbs]

Short of getting it on a lift -- is there another way to check the front diff?

I won't buy a used vehicle without either a mechanic checking it out, or at the very least, throwing it up on a rack. 5 of the 6 vehicles in my sig were bought used, and they've all been pretty good. When I bought the Denali, it only had 70k on the clock. But we put it up on a rack, and I could see the pinion seal of the front diff was leaking. I had them fix it before buying.

I guess if that wasn't an option, I'd drive slowly around a parking lot with someone walking along side listening for pops, grinds, etc. I'd do some figure-8s, with them walking along on either side of the truck. Then take it onto the highway with the windows up and radio off, listening for excess noises. I'd do some hard stops and starts, trying to induce clunks and thuds - indicating worn u-joints or bearings.

Frankly, the Denali's been a bit of a money pit. It's sitting at 140k right now on the odometer. I've replaced the brakes several times, ball joints, axle half-shafts, hubs/bearings, front diff, control arms, etc.

Goods: It's a hoot to drive. 400hp and AWD make for an amusing ride. Lots of creature comforts - heated wheel/seats, etc.
Bads: Like all half-ton GM trucks, they tend to get repairy after 100k or so miles. Doubly so on the Denalis - you've got a lot more moving parts in the drivetrain.

Not trying to scare you off from it, just want to make you aware of what possibly/likely lies ahead. Here's a screenshot of my maintenance spreadsheet, for some other ideas what to look for:

ETA: For comparison, on my Suburban, from when I purchased it in 2013 with 106k until September 2020 and 204k, I replaced a few TPMS sensors, and the two vapor recovery solenoids. That's it. One of the reasons I prefer the 3/4-ton trucks.

 

[vinbart]

I think it only comes with one key -- does anyone have any ideas on the cost of getting a new key from the dealer and if there is any aftermarket alternative?

 

[intheburbs]

I think it only comes with one key -- does anyone have any ideas on the cost of getting a new key from the dealer and if there is any aftermarket alternative?

I bought a generic key off eBay, had it cut at the local Ace hardware, and had a locksmith program it to the truck. It was 5 years ago, but I think it was like $50.

 

[Geotrash]

I bought a generic key off eBay, had it cut at the local Ace hardware, and had a locksmith program it to the truck. It was 5 years ago, but I think it was like $50.

+1 to the locksmith for $50.

Or...there is a procedure for programming a new key with no additional tools. And you can program a new fob with the Tech2 that you will buy within the first week of buying your Escalade

To program a new key:
1. Insert the existing key into the ignition of the vehicle and turn to the “ON” position.
2. Watch the THEFT light it will go out within 10 to 20 seconds, when it does turn the key to the “OFF” position and remove it from the ignition.
3. Insert the new transponder key into the ignition and turn it to the “ON” position
4. Watch the THEFT light it will go out in the same 10 to 20 seconds, when it does turn the new key to the “OFF” position and remove it from the ignition.
5. Reinsert the key and start the vehicle to confirm the programming has worked.

 

[mikes2nd]

that can be expensive right there. 200$?

Here is what i did on my 2007 Escalade.

3 broken exhaust bolts
front axle bushings
Steering angle sensor
Air suspension motor
Rear door handle
Plugs/wires
Dropped oil pan and replaced oil pickup tube gasket(oil pressure was low 27 and under is the lifter killer).

Other misc stuff, headlight replace...

heated drivers seat does not work.

Other thing to look out for is the heater gate

I still have a tick on cold acceleration... cant figure it out but im going to do a oil analysis to make sure no metal in oil... its fine after full warm up.. I think its cracked flexplate?