What did you do to your NBS GMT800 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Bigkevschopshop]

You sodomíze your truck?


View attachment 348465



No judgements.

The truck does that to my wallet...

"The price is wrong......"

 

[Doubeleive]

First was Oring on oil pickup tube... So had that done cause my injuries still dont make it easy to lay on the concrete for hours at a time... So let the shop I know do the work... That was all good, then it started leaking oil majorly... I am guessing PO had put high mileage oil in it, then when the shop put regular oil in it, boom instant leak... So, now here is all the leaks, Valve covers, valley pan, oil pressure sensor etc. So got all that done, along with knock sensors and harness while there anyways. I could have done this work, but chose not to.... 4 days later, hard start, pop back on first key cycle, then start on second...... I replaced the fuel press. reg. no fix... Fuel pump swap out with new Delphi one, No fix... Then CEL came on for P0327, Knock sensor 1... Brought it back to the shop, they ran the tech 2 on it, showed voltages and everything correct, cleared the code... 3 ignition cycles later, bam CEL back on. So dropped it off yesterday, they pulled the top back off, 2 new knock sensors and harness later, I'm on key cycle #4 so far... I beat on this thing LIke it owed me money all the way home last night... didn't fail... So we will see... Hell I have done all the crazy normal mierdia that fails, so it should be good... Fingers crossed.... But not holding my breath...

MY 2500 dollar Tahoe I bought 6 years ago was damn near bullet proof, Had 1 10 dollar sensor fail in the 1st 2 weeks, fixed that. 2 years in it had knock sensor issues, did them and worked perfect from day one... I got 40k miles out of it, someone scammed the mileage on me... But for 2500 I didn't care... Odometer had 142k on it, seats were still good, body dented a bit... Really had 250k on it when I got it...

I really hoped for better starting my relationship with this one... But maybe her and I just are not meant to be... She's a gold digger on me I think....

your probably a vent canister leak and fuel pump away from a nice ride

 

[TollKeeper]

your probably a vent canister leak and fuel pump away from a nice ride

And maybe a ignition switch..

 

[Doubeleive]

And maybe a ignition switch..

then a 4l60.....

 

[Rocket Man]

your probably a vent canister leak and fuel pump away from a nice ride

He already did the fuel pump…

 

[Teamiez]

First was Oring on oil pickup tube... So had that done cause my injuries still dont make it easy to lay on the concrete for hours at a time... So let the shop I know do the work... That was all good, then it started leaking oil majorly... I am guessing PO had put high mileage oil in it, then when the shop put regular oil in it, boom instant leak... So, now here is all the leaks, Valve covers, valley pan, oil pressure sensor etc. So got all that done, along with knock sensors and harness while there anyways. I could have done this work, but chose not to.... 4 days later, hard start, pop back on first key cycle, then start on second...... I replaced the fuel press. reg. no fix... Fuel pump swap out with new Delphi one, No fix... Then CEL came on for P0327, Knock sensor 1... Brought it back to the shop, they ran the tech 2 on it, showed voltages and everything correct, cleared the code... 3 ignition cycles later, bam CEL back on. So dropped it off yesterday, they pulled the top back off, 2 new knock sensors and harness later, I'm on key cycle #4 so far... I beat on this thing LIke it owed me money all the way home last night... didn't fail... So we will see... Hell I have done all the crazy normal mierdia that fails, so it should be good... Fingers crossed.... But not holding my breath...

MY 2500 dollar Tahoe I bought 6 years ago was damn near bullet proof, Had 1 10 dollar sensor fail in the 1st 2 weeks, fixed that. 2 years in it had knock sensor issues, did them and worked perfect from day one... I got 40k miles out of it, someone scammed the mileage on me... But for 2500 I didn't care... Odometer had 142k on it, seats were still good, body dented a bit... Really had 250k on it when I got it...

I really hoped for better starting my relationship with this one... But maybe her and I just are not meant to be... She's a gold digger on me I think....

When I bought my 01 with 97,000 on it it was the perfect time for the previous owner to ditch it, because between then and 150,000 miles everything wanted to go. But after that it’s been pretty reliable.

 

[SnowDrifter]

My best guess..... Trailer harness got in the salt (?) water.... ( How long after your launch did the code appear??) Maybe the "short" pissed something off ??

First was Oring on oil pickup tube... So had that done cause my injuries still dont make it easy to lay on the concrete for hours at a time... So let the shop I know do the work... That was all good, then it started leaking oil majorly... I am guessing PO had put high mileage oil in it, then when the shop put regular oil in it, boom instant leak... So, now here is all the leaks, Valve covers, valley pan, oil pressure sensor etc. So got all that done, along with knock sensors and harness while there anyways. I could have done this work, but chose not to.... 4 days later, hard start, pop back on first key cycle, then start on second...... I replaced the fuel press. reg. no fix... Fuel pump swap out with new Delphi one, No fix... Then CEL came on for P0327, Knock sensor 1... Brought it back to the shop, they ran the tech 2 on it, showed voltages and everything correct, cleared the code... 3 ignition cycles later, bam CEL back on. So dropped it off yesterday, they pulled the top back off, 2 new knock sensors and harness later, I'm on key cycle #4 so far... I beat on this thing LIke it owed me money all the way home last night... didn't fail... So we will see... Hell I have done all the crazy normal mierdia that fails, so it should be good... Fingers crossed.... But not holding my breath...

MY 2500 dollar Tahoe I bought 6 years ago was damn near bullet proof, Had 1 10 dollar sensor fail in the 1st 2 weeks, fixed that. 2 years in it had knock sensor issues, did them and worked perfect from day one... I got 40k miles out of it, someone scammed the mileage on me... But for 2500 I didn't care... Odometer had 142k on it, seats were still good, body dented a bit... Really had 250k on it when I got it...

I really hoped for better starting my relationship with this one... But maybe her and I just are not meant to be... She's a gold digger on me I think....

Damn dude!

Meanwhile mine:

I did intake gasket on it when I picked it up at 115k. Also did knock sensors, harness, oil pressure sensor while in there. And brakes. There was nothing wrong w/ them, I just didn't trust OEM stuff that was that old. Moisture ingress and pad delamination is a thing.

Fuel pump at 118k

Did oil pump at 140k. Teardown found the pressure relief valve was scored (no idea why) and causing some fluctuation in pressure. Replaced w/ a melling high volume pump w/ a high pressure spring installed. Did the pickup tube o-ring while I was in there, but at the time, o-ring had no concerns.

Also had to replace the front diff at 140k. But that one lies square on previous owners / shops. Right side axle shaft seal was leaking. The thing had 1/4 to 1/3 the amount of fluid it was supposed to. Replaced the seal when I got it, and just ran the thing until the thing started to go into 'runaway grenade mode.' Actually had to do that one twice on account of a bad manufacture job. Side earings weren't set right, chewed through ring gear and ate the right side axle shaft. It's been dandy ever since. Ended up doing front wheel bearings at the same time because if I have it all torn down... Why the hell not. It's 140k on OEMs, close to EOL anyway.

Did rear axle shaft seals at 155k after noting a slight weep.

Uhhhhhh.... That's about all I got for major work, outside of standard fluid changes or swapping out the odd leaky hydraulic hose. Some of it needed, some of it under the trap of "while I'm in there." Not sure how much if it is from the vehicle, or just odd care practice from previous owner.

Most seals on the engine are factory. Not so much as a wet spot. Same gig for the transmission, transfer case.

Still have original alternator, power steering, hydroboost. Did water pump when I did the oil pump. Wasn't bad, just didn't want to put the OEM unit back on with that many miles. The thing has been reliable enough to me that I trust it... And have trusted it to literally just get in and drive it across the country. Toook the thing on an 1800 mile each way trip on a whim, without stopping lol. Hell, the thing doesn't even use a notable amount of oil.

Maintenance habits somewhat depend on driving style.

I change oil pretty often in the winter as it gets short trips / idle time. 1500-2k miles. Used to do 2.5-3k but I noted some varnish accumulation on the rockers due to moisture. Cut the interval down, varnish reversed itself. Summer time when I'm doing longer trips, less idle time, I'll run it to 4-5k. I don't much listen to the oil monitor, I know better than that thing lol. I run 0w40 european oil in mine. Oh, and PCV catch cans are great.

Coolant is done every couple years. I swapped off dexcool soon after I got it. I actually run gen II honda coolant in it - phoat. Original radiator, t-fittings. No sign of brittle plastic yet.

Have a magnefine filter on power steering return and transmission cooler line. I highly suggest putting one on the trans. I've discovered the 4l60e is pretty sensitive to small particle contamination in fluid - even after changing said fluid. I caught only a thimble of schmooo in mine, but a thimble is all it took I guess. Noted much more consistent shift performance.

Regarding trans: I drop the pan and do the pickup / wipe-out every 30-50k. Just sort of... When I feel like it. Have a second magnet in the pan as per a TSB. The more, the merrier, eh? I drain / fill the trans pan every ~10k just to keep the fluid clean. Not a full flush. I just suck the thing out through the dipstuck w/ a mityvac. Fluid is cheap. Transmissions are not. 165k and no concerns so far w/ trans. Also have a trucool 40k on it and custom override for radiator fans. Hottest I've ever seen the thing was 155 degrees.... When it was 113 outside lol. It usually hovers in a pretty narrow range of 120-135 degrees.

I'll do the same w/ power steering fluid. Hydroboost is pretty ******* the stuff.

Diffs every 40-50k. I just do it whenever I drop the trans pan. Use 75w140 front and rear with a slight overfill to compensate for drain time with thicker fluid. I'll compare fluid contaminants and fight anyone who tries to tell me I'm doing it wrong lol.

Beyond that.... I just keep up on ****. Buy good fluids, good filters. If cash is tight, I'll drop fluid tier before filters. The best oil won't do you any good if the filter is letting junk by. Magnefine in transmission / power steering. Engine gets either amsoil or fram ultra filters. Won't use anything else. Air filters are wix / acdelco. No k&n nonsense. They let particulates by.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Damn dude!

Meanwhile mine:

I did intake gasket on it when I picked it up at 115k. Also did knock sensors, harness, oil pressure sensor while in there. And brakes. There was nothing wrong w/ them, I just didn't trust OEM stuff that was that old. Moisture ingress and pad delamination is a thing.

Fuel pump at 118k

Did oil pump at 140k. Teardown found the pressure relief valve was scored (no idea why) and causing some fluctuation in pressure. Replaced w/ a melling high volume pump w/ a high pressure spring installed. Did the pickup tube o-ring while I was in there, but at the time, o-ring had no concerns.

Also had to replace the front diff at 140k. But that one lies square on previous owners / shops. Right side axle shaft seal was leaking. The thing had 1/4 to 1/3 the amount of fluid it was supposed to. Replaced the seal when I got it, and just ran the thing until the thing started to go into 'runaway grenade mode.' Actually had to do that one twice on account of a bad manufacture job. Side earings weren't set right, chewed through ring gear and ate the right side axle shaft. It's been dandy ever since. Ended up doing front wheel bearings at the same time because if I have it all torn down... Why the hell not. It's 140k on OEMs, close to EOL anyway.

Did rear axle shaft seals at 155k after noting a slight weep.

Uhhhhhh.... That's about all I got for major work, outside of standard fluid changes or swapping out the odd leaky hydraulic hose. Some of it needed, some of it under the trap of "while I'm in there." Not sure how much if it is from the vehicle, or just odd care practice from previous owner.

Most seals on the engine are factory. Not so much as a wet spot. Same gig for the transmission, transfer case.

Still have original alternator, power steering, hydroboost. Did water pump when I did the oil pump. Wasn't bad, just didn't want to put the OEM unit back on with that many miles. The thing has been reliable enough to me that I trust it... And have trusted it to literally just get in and drive it across the country. Toook the thing on an 1800 mile each way trip on a whim, without stopping lol. Hell, the thing doesn't even use a notable amount of oil.

Maintenance habits somewhat depend on driving style.

I change oil pretty often in the winter as it gets short trips / idle time. 1500-2k miles. Used to do 2.5-3k but I noted some varnish accumulation on the rockers due to moisture. Cut the interval down, varnish reversed itself. Summer time when I'm doing longer trips, less idle time, I'll run it to 4-5k. I don't much listen to the oil monitor, I know better than that thing lol. I run 0w40 european oil in mine. Oh, and PCV catch cans are great.

Coolant is done every couple years. I swapped off dexcool soon after I got it. I actually run gen II honda coolant in it - phoat. Original radiator, t-fittings. No sign of brittle plastic yet.

Have a magnefine filter on power steering return and transmission cooler line. I highly suggest putting one on the trans. I've discovered the 4l60e is pretty sensitive to small particle contamination in fluid - even after changing said fluid. I caught only a thimble of schmooo in mine, but a thimble is all it took I guess. Noted much more consistent shift performance.

Regarding trans: I drop the pan and do the pickup / wipe-out every 30-50k. Just sort of... When I feel like it. Have a second magnet in the pan as per a TSB. The more, the merrier, eh? I drain / fill the trans pan every ~10k just to keep the fluid clean. Not a full flush. I just suck the thing out through the dipstuck w/ a mityvac. Fluid is cheap. Transmissions are not. 165k and no concerns so far w/ trans. Also have a trucool 40k on it and custom override for radiator fans. Hottest I've ever seen the thing was 155 degrees.... When it was 113 outside lol. It usually hovers in a pretty narrow range of 120-135 degrees.

I'll do the same w/ power steering fluid. Hydroboost is pretty ******* the stuff.

Diffs every 40-50k. I just do it whenever I drop the trans pan. Use 75w140 front and rear with a slight overfill to compensate for drain time with thicker fluid. I'll compare fluid contaminants and fight anyone who tries to tell me I'm doing it wrong lol.

Beyond that.... I just keep up on ****. Buy good fluids, good filters. If cash is tight, I'll drop fluid tier before filters. The best oil won't do you any good if the filter is letting junk by. Magnefine in transmission / power steering. Engine gets either amsoil or fram ultra filters. Won't use anything else. Air filters are wix / acdelco. No k&n nonsense. They let particulates by.

How long have you been running the high pressure/high volume oil pump? Notice anything different from the stock pump? I'm running similar in my express van and oil pressure is high. On the highway I think it hits 80 psi hot. Think I read somewhere high pressure could be an issue. Been running it about 2 yrs like that with no issues, but I just wanted to ask. The amount of sludge in it was unreal. Changed to the hv because oil pressure went to 0 at idle. Also changed the O ring--which was still soft and pliable.

 

[mountie]

It's fresh water, but yes that's definitely a possibility. My current situation with my trailing wiring is not ideal. I have a couple leads on what to test and go from there. Thanks for the input!

My 1st thought is..... Check the ground wires / grounding connections at the rear area. ( Good luck)

 

[Sam Harris]

Not today, but last week, the temps were in the mid 90’s… I don’t use the A/C all that often, but it was hot. Hopped in, to take my kiddo to a dental appointment, and A/C was blowing Hot…! Dammit…! I had seemed to hear a noise the day before, so expected it would be the compressor… well, I did the old recalibration trick, by pulling the A/C fuse for 1 minute, re-inserting, and then turning truck to Acc for a couple minutes and listened to the actuators moving full travel… started her up, turned on the air, ad we’re back in business! Whew!

****** after detail garage picture, because it was threatening rain Saturday when I was detailing..

 

[Fless]

Trying to pick some people's brains. After backing my boat down the launch (Water level not even to exhaust) I had a B2610 code set in, don't seem to have any issues with cluster lighting, and everything seems to work as necessary. Anybody else have this issue, it's also causing the Stabilitrac and traction control lights to stay on. I do have a custom cluster from digital dash solutions (fixmygauges) I don't seen any issues and there are no other codes active or in history. I'm a little puzzled currently. Any help would be great. Thanks

You might pull the trailer connector-associated fuses in the underhood fusebox.

There should be one each for left and right turn signals/brake lights, one for the running lights, and two large ones for the electric brake controller and the aux power to the trailer. There may also be one for the reverse lights if it's wired. Essentially remove any/all power to the 7-blade, then disassemble the connection on the backside (it should snap off by releasing a latch). Visually inspect connections and blow it out with air and/or something that displaces water.

Run the truck afterward to see if it made a difference, then reverse steps to reconnect.

 

[Keviebear86]

You might pull the trailer connector-associated fuses in the underhood fusebox.

There should be one each for left and right turn signals/brake lights, one for the running lights, and two large ones for the electric brake controller and the aux power to the trailer. There may also be one for the reverse lights if it's wired. Essentially remove any/all power to the 7-blade, then disassemble the connection on the backside (it should snap off by releasing a latch). Visually inspect connections and blow it out with air and/or something that displaces water.

Run the truck afterward to see if it made a difference, then reverse steps to reconnect.

Thats very helpful, I will give all of that a try! Thanks!

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

then a 4l60.....

 

[clandr1]

I visited my wife's family in Oregon last week and had the good fortune of being able to drive this 2001 3/4T 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1L gas motor all week.

It was purchased new by my wife's grandfather who passed away about 3 years ago. It is now referred to as the "Texas limo" since my wife and her sister moved down to Texas back in the early 90's, and when we go visit there's always at least 6 of us who fly up together and need transportation.

The truck only has 69,000 miles on it, and while I was up there I took a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and gave the first two rows of leather a good cleaning. It came out looking great, and after a quick run through the car wash will now be stored until we visit again next year.

My wife's aunt stores it at her house and drives it occasionally, and even had the front and rear diffs, transmission, cabin air filter and fuel filter serviced before our visit. I suggested she have the brake fluid flushed because the reservoir is looking pretty dark. I even offered to pick up the bill since nobody really drives it except us (I didn't have time to have it done while we were up there, and none of the family has the proper tools for me to do it myself).

It feels good to take care of the truck - I like to think that her grandpa is looking down on us, and appreciates my efforts to keep the truck looking good and running well.

 

[SnowDrifter]

How long have you been running the high pressure/high volume oil pump? Notice anything different from the stock pump? I'm running similar in my express van and oil pressure is high. On the highway I think it hits 80 psi hot. Think I read somewhere high pressure could be an issue. Been running it about 2 yrs like that with no issues, but I just wanted to ask. The amount of sludge in it was unreal. Changed to the hv because oil pressure went to 0 at idle. Also changed the O ring--which was still soft and pliable.

Installed on Mar 12th, 2019 at 140k. Currently at 165k

I read mine through the OBD port.

Running castrol edge euro 0w40:

Hot idle is ~50psi. Highway at 1600rpm is 65 or so.

Cold start is hard to quantify since temperature swings where I am. If it's in the negatives, it'll be high 70s at idle. Summer time where the engine is already at 100 degrees? It's 60 or so. I generally use the oil pressure as a gauge of internal engine temperature, so until it gets to steady state operating temp, I modulate how much gas I give it so it stays at or below 80psi. Cause you know... Oil actually touches all the working bits. It's a better indicator of internal engine temp IMO. Coolant just tells you cylinder wall and head temp.


I don't redline my rig when cold, so I couldn't tell you what that is. But hot, it'll just barely kiss 110 at shift point.


I buy quality oil filters though. Don't want one blowing up. Would make for sad. I also buy the longer ones that sit level w/ the bottom of the oil pan. XG3675 / EAO64 are the only 2 I roll with.


Only change I noted, besides obviously higher oil pressure, was a quieting of piston slap at idle. Prevailing theory is the slinging a bit more oil into the pistons provides a cushioning effect. Haven't noted any oil consumption or increase in catch can drainage, so whatever it is doesn't have any observable effects.


There are only 2 things I've read regarding high oil pressur.

1. Head drainback. Which.... Idk what vehicles those are on, but this one ain't it boss. Head drainback is pretty generous on these motors. I've held it at ~5k rpm for 10 minutes and haven't noted any concerns with that.

2. Blown out oil filters. But that generally takes in excess of 300psi. At least for a quality one. I don't keep up to date with the cheapest the mainland has to offer

Bonus: Internet thing where it will cut into your bearings is so beyond ********. It's an oil pump, not a cutting water jet. If your pressure is that high, you'll blow a hole in the side of the block's oil passages before you saw through a journal.

 

[Sam Harris]

I visited my wife's family in Oregon last week and had the good fortune of being able to drive this 2001 3/4T 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1L gas motor all week.

It was purchased new by my wife's grandfather who passed away about 3 years ago. It is now referred to as the "Texas limo" since my wife and her sister moved down to Texas back in the early 90's, and when we go visit there's always at least 6 of us who fly up together and need transportation.

The truck only has 69,000 miles on it, and while I was up there I took a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and gave the first two rows of leather a good cleaning. It came out looking great, and after a quick run through the car wash will now be stored until we visit again next year.

My wife's aunt stores it at her house and drives it occasionally, and even had the front and rear diffs, transmission, air filter and fuel filter serviced before our visit. I suggested she have the brake fluid flushed because the reservoir is looking pretty dark. I even offered to pick up the bill since nobody really drives it except us (I didn't have time to have it done while we were up there, and none of the family has the proper tools for me to do it myself).

It feels good to take care of the truck - I like to think that her grandpa is looking down on us, and appreciates my efforts to keep the truck looking good and running well.

View attachment 348519

It looks great man! Good to hear it’s story and I’m sure grandpa is watching, and appreciating the care provided by all of you.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Installed on Mar 12th, 2019 at 140k. Currently at 165k

I read mine through the OBD port.

Running castrol edge euro 0w40:

Hot idle is ~50psi. Highway at 1600rpm is 65 or so.

Cold start is hard to quantify since temperature swings where I am. If it's in the negatives, it'll be high 70s at idle. Summer time where the engine is already at 100 degrees? It's 60 or so. I generally use the oil pressure as a gauge of internal engine temperature, so until it gets to steady state operating temp, I modulate how much gas I give it so it stays at or below 80psi. Cause you know... Oil actually touches all the working bits. It's a better indicator of internal engine temp IMO. Coolant just tells you cylinder wall and head temp.


I don't redline my rig when cold, so I couldn't tell you what that is. But hot, it'll just barely kiss 110 at shift point.


I buy quality oil filters though. Don't want one blowing up. Would make for sad. I also buy the longer ones that sit level w/ the bottom of the oil pan. XG3675 / EAO64 are the only 2 I roll with.


Only change I noted, besides obviously higher oil pressure, was a quieting of piston slap at idle. Prevailing theory is the slinging a bit more oil into the pistons provides a cushioning effect. Haven't noted any oil consumption or increase in catch can drainage, so whatever it is doesn't have any observable effects.


There are only 2 things I've read regarding high oil pressur.

1. Head drainback. Which.... Idk what vehicles those are on, but this one ain't it boss. Head drainback is pretty generous on these motors. I've held it at ~5k rpm for 10 minutes and haven't noted any concerns with that.

2. Blown out oil filters. But that generally takes in excess of 300psi. At least for a quality one. I don't keep up to date with the cheapest the mainland has to offer

Bonus: Internet thing where it will cut into your bearings is so beyond ********. It's an oil pump, not a cutting water jet. If your pressure is that high, you'll blow a hole in the side of the block's oil passages before you saw through a journal.

That sounds great. Thx for getting back to me, sounds great and you've eased my fears about the higher oil pressure and volume.

 

[SnowDrifter]

That sounds great. Thx for getting back to me, sounds great and you've eased my fears about the higher oil pressure and volume.

I'll nab a UOA probably.... Sometime early next year. Was waiting till the pump had 30k on it otherwise all I'll be seeing is break in wear and gasket in the oil. Wouldn't tell much

 

[Rocket Man]

I visited my wife's family in Oregon last week and had the good fortune of being able to drive this 2001 3/4T 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1L gas motor all week.

It was purchased new by my wife's grandfather who passed away about 3 years ago. It is now referred to as the "Texas limo" since my wife and her sister moved down to Texas back in the early 90's, and when we go visit there's always at least 6 of us who fly up together and need transportation.

The truck only has 69,000 miles on it, and while I was up there I took a bucket of soapy water and a scrub brush and gave the first two rows of leather a good cleaning. It came out looking great, and after a quick run through the car wash will now be stored until we visit again next year.

My wife's aunt stores it at her house and drives it occasionally, and even had the front and rear diffs, transmission, cabin air filter and fuel filter serviced before our visit. I suggested she have the brake fluid flushed because the reservoir is looking pretty dark. I even offered to pick up the bill since nobody really drives it except us (I didn't have time to have it done while we were up there, and none of the family has the proper tools for me to do it myself).

It feels good to take care of the truck - I like to think that her grandpa is looking down on us, and appreciates my efforts to keep the truck looking good and running well.

View attachment 348519

Now that’s a true unicorn, especially with that mileage.

 

[Tonyrodz]

15224193



Stop sodomizing your truck then?
On the real: I'm curious on what's been going on. Just cause.... It's what I do. I wanna know!


huh.... TIL.

With my discount getting it for $35. Thx.